I guess I'll never understand how pulling in hotter air and allowing more contamination through the filter adds to performance. I guess they sell them and are making a killing so they don't care.

 

That's why I corrected it. I hate to put misinformation out there also. Have a good one. I gotta get back to the exhaust system work.

 

Not being a smart a$$, but do you have a link to an article that reflects your statement? I know K&N has been around a long time and their dyno tests show a 7.9 horse power gain with this set up on this vehicle. I know that ain't much but with the TB bored, new header and high flow exhaust, it all adds up.

I know heat is the enemy, but really how much are we talking?

I have run K&N on most of my vehicles and never had an issue with contamination getting thru. I am in a wet environment, not a dusty dry one so maybe that is part of the difference in contamination?

 

Yeah, the dryer climates are more of an issue. A dry day on the trail would be way too dusty for a K&N, IMO. Keep it oiled and it'll probably be fine but most people slap them in and never touch them again.

The improved power on the Dyno is because of the increased air flow but it's a trade off. It's rather obvious why it's going to pull in hotter air so I won't get in to that.

 

Its true. I think they are only best when you have a ram air system like a scoop hood. Other than that ill take my cowl intake anyday

 

Ordered brown dog brackets and mounts and a set of IRO long arms!

 

Cap, Rotor, Wires and plugs all got changed less than 10K ago. It is not a hard thing to change the gap on plugs so, I gave it a try. Will I have to check them more often now, yes. Is that an issue for me, no.

On my 80 mile daily commute I have already noticed less throttle needed to go up the inclines and far less downshifting. That tells me I am getting a stronger, faster burn in the chamber resulting from a larger spark, yes .014 makes a difference, which in turn creates more torque. It may not be much but even it is a .5 lb-ft per cylinder increase, that is nothing to snub at. Did I put it on the dyno, no, I can't verify that. All other factors tell me it is a good adjustment to have made.

Stock is not the end all to having the best running engine, it is the safest most reliable all around settings that the manufacturer can build. There is always room to improve. Otherwise we would all just drive with Stock air boxes, never switch out the clutch fan, no lift, little tire, factory geared XJ's.

For the thread, topped off with gas.

 

I've been running the Same K&N drop in filter since 2003. In the stock air boxes It started in my Tj, then got installed in my Yj, now it's in my XJ. It's doing fine. Even with wheeling in a dusty desert environment for 2+ years it has no grayish tan tint anywhere I had it in my YJ for 7 years with no issues. Personally with the amount of snow I get here a cowl snorkel would be a pain in he *** to keep the cowl opening free of snow. Of I ever put a snorkel on my XJ it will be an Arb. I had one on my YJ and it worked great.

 

Snow doesn't bother through cowl intake. There's enough free air to start the jeep and it has to get cleaned Anyways so you can drive without snow constantly flying at you

 

December-late march everything is snow covered
I don't like cowl snorkels I have a few friends running them on their TJ's and XJ's I don't like the noise they produce on the interior

 

Thats cool. Just wanted to make sure no one gave you bad info. Its to each his own when it comes to a jeep.

Hell theres people that want to make a race car out their jeep

 

Finally got around to fixing my front shocks bushings, no more clunking sound driving down the road.

 

I'm getting a clunking sound 2 but it's not my shocks there new

 

Went to check the oil after not driving it for awhile. Well I knew I had a oil leak but not this bad.

 

That's not what ya want.