Want to buy a welder
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 164
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From: SoCal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Don't buy any welder from Harbor Freight. Secondly, using a 110 welder is barely passable, especially with no gas. I would recommend getting a Lincoln or Miller or ESAB or something other than a chinese brand. I understand the convenience of 110 for those of us without more power in the garage. Use gas. Turn the voltage ALL the way up, the wire feed/current about three, and go real slow. You can get decent penetration that way. But not on half inch steel. Other suggestions for cost effectiveness; get an older stick welder and get real good at burning rod. Good luck to ya.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 19
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From: Arkansas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Have to agree with everyone about any 110v welder, they are good for thin metal (up to 1/8") only; they can go up to 3/16" thick but why take the chances of finding later on that you didn't get full penetration by having a catastrophe?
I have an oxy/acet rig and willl be getting a miller TIG rig soon. I think these two setups will let me do any fabricating I come up with. I was certified in gas, tig, mig and elec stick back in 1980 when I worked as an oil tank and steam pipe welder (1/2" to 11/2" steel). I've also built race car frames and roll cages certified for stock cars and NHRA just so you know the background I come from. Three things leading to bad welds; poor prep-work, using too low or high amps and wrong selection of filler material.
I have an oxy/acet rig and willl be getting a miller TIG rig soon. I think these two setups will let me do any fabricating I come up with. I was certified in gas, tig, mig and elec stick back in 1980 when I worked as an oil tank and steam pipe welder (1/2" to 11/2" steel). I've also built race car frames and roll cages certified for stock cars and NHRA just so you know the background I come from. Three things leading to bad welds; poor prep-work, using too low or high amps and wrong selection of filler material.
Last edited by LizardRunner; Dec 23, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 2
From: Black Diamond Foothills, KY.
Year: Multi
Model: Cherokee
There 'is'.........a 110 welder worth buying..........you may not be familiar with the AMERICAN company that makes it, and........it may be out of your budget......They're built by HTP, and you'd be looking at the 140 model.......(www.usaweld.com)..... These welders are extremely user friendly and user repairable if ever needed. I know of 2 shops using this brand for over 12 years now, everyday.......with no issues.......I've sworn up and down my next welder for the shop would be HTP, but as a shop I need replacement the same day.......I swear again my next will be a HTP model, easy replacement parts, copper windings (My Lincoln's are alum. and I burned thru the factory internal connection within 2 days..(220 machine).....)
So there you go, study what HTP has to offer, I've never heard a foul word!
So there you go, study what HTP has to offer, I've never heard a foul word!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 49
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From: Mt. Hood, OR
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I will chime in here since I've been welding for 12 twelve years and have just about every cert that's available for mig. If you are just looking for a light duty welder, your best bet is to buy the Hobart 140. Which will properly weld up to 3/16". Also if you want to do heavier welding this welder can be upgraded to a 190 With a 10 pound spool and all still 110 plug in. Which you can do structual welds with it like that
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Sort of off-topic, but running 220 VAC single-phase should be a DIY job in any relatively new house (e.g. built in the last 20 years). All you need is enough space in your breaker box for two more breakers, a double-pole breaker, and the supporting parts… wire, conduit, outlets, etc. (The double pole breaker itself is what takes the two spaces in the breaker box. Basically, it is a 110x2 volt configuration.)
The basic jist of getting 220 service is to run all your wire leaving a pigtail near the breaker box. Then shut off the main breaker, pull off the access cover, connect the wires to the new two-pole breaker, snap it into the box and button everything up. There is a bit more to it than that, but not much.
Having said that, I do realize not everyone is comfortable working 12 volt electricity let alone 220. If you run all the wire and conduit yourself, leaving the final electrical hookups to an electrician, his fee should be relatively reasonable.
Black & Decker has an electrical book that is basically a boiled-down version of the National Electric Code (NEC). It has all the pointers you need to do a safe job that will pass inspection for permitting (if you are into that type of thing). I read the book cover-to-cover and it gave me enough confidence to run two new 220 services AND an auxillary panel into my garage to power the lathe, mill, and a couple high-current outlets for other things. Electrician quoted me $1,500 for the job, I did it myself for less than 200.
The basic jist of getting 220 service is to run all your wire leaving a pigtail near the breaker box. Then shut off the main breaker, pull off the access cover, connect the wires to the new two-pole breaker, snap it into the box and button everything up. There is a bit more to it than that, but not much.
Having said that, I do realize not everyone is comfortable working 12 volt electricity let alone 220. If you run all the wire and conduit yourself, leaving the final electrical hookups to an electrician, his fee should be relatively reasonable.
Black & Decker has an electrical book that is basically a boiled-down version of the National Electric Code (NEC). It has all the pointers you need to do a safe job that will pass inspection for permitting (if you are into that type of thing). I read the book cover-to-cover and it gave me enough confidence to run two new 220 services AND an auxillary panel into my garage to power the lathe, mill, and a couple high-current outlets for other things. Electrician quoted me $1,500 for the job, I did it myself for less than 200.
I will chime in here since I've been welding for 12 twelve years and have just about every cert that's available for mig. If you are just looking for a light duty welder, your best bet is to buy the Hobart 140. Which will properly weld up to 3/16". Also if you want to do heavier welding this welder can be upgraded to a 190 With a 10 pound spool and all still 110 plug in. Which you can do structual welds with it like that
Another thing, I don't know of ANY company who makes anything bigger than 140 amps that runs on 110. All the 180 and larger units require 220v service.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 49
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From: Mt. Hood, OR
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well I was meaning that it can be upgraded to 190 amps and you can also upgrade it to run a 10 pound spool!
Well if you knew the people I know that work for Miller you'd be able to get a Hobart that produces 190 amps! I had it done so I could have a powerful portable welder to bring to places that only had 110. It wasn't cheap at all but well worth it!!
Well if you knew the people I know that work for Miller you'd be able to get a Hobart that produces 190 amps! I had it done so I could have a powerful portable welder to bring to places that only had 110. It wasn't cheap at all but well worth it!!
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Mt. Hood, OR
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh and ZachsXJ you should look at the Hobart Trek 180 it's plugs into basic 115V!!! Soo now you know of A company that makes something more than a 140 amp! It's also battery operated if you don't have a plug in! So know something before you try to prove someone wrong when your wrong yourself!
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Oh and ZachsXJ you should look at the Hobart Trek 180 it's plugs into basic 115V!!! Soo now you know of A company that makes something more than a 140 amp! It's also battery operated if you don't have a plug in! So know something before you try to prove someone wrong when your wrong yourself!
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 7
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From: St. Albans, WV
Model: Cherokee
So I take it the 140 would be fine for body metal ( rockers and panels)?
If I was going to weld anything thicker I would use a Lincoln buzz box, a Lincoln is what I used on my very first weld. Which doesn't mean anything I still don't know how to weld, but I try.
Jeff
If I was going to weld anything thicker I would use a Lincoln buzz box, a Lincoln is what I used on my very first weld. Which doesn't mean anything I still don't know how to weld, but I try.
Jeff
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I still recommend that you get a welder that will do everything you want it to and then some.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 49
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From: Mt. Hood, OR
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
again that's wrong they make it to plug into the wall not only to charge it but to use the current straight from the plug in so it doesn't wear on the batteries! It's a true 180 amps while it's plugged into a outlet!
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 71
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Model: Cherokee
I would like to buy a welder and i was wondering if anybody has bought and used any from harbor freight. I saw this one the other day when i was there and was wondering if anybody has used it. The only thing i would use it for is some body work and maybe building a tube bumper and and roof rack and stuff like that. http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...der-98871.html
i would never buy anything else but name brand welders.
get also a auto tinting helmet and you will be welding like a pro after a few passes.
i recommend a 180 amp or bigger so you know there will be nothing you cant weld on off roading apps.
i got a 125 amp and it works fine but i got it so i can use it in normal 120 outlets so if i needed it some place there was only 120. it will do around 1/4 inch no problem.
i was speaking of mig welders by the way
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,971
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From: WNY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
I do not know much about welders but in the shop I use a 135W Lincoln and for something to learn on its amazingly easy to use and it works fantastic with everything ive welded together so far. Just throwing out my .02.
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The Trek 180 maxes out at 1/4"(what pretty much every 140amp machine is rated at) and will only run 120amps at a 20% duty cycle, which is pretty much on-par with 140 amp machines. They can say its a 180 amp machine all they want, still doesn't change the fact that it won't perform at the same level as all of the other 180 amp machines on the market.