The Ugly Jeep/Advice.

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Jul 7, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #16  
Ok... so I swapped out the junk PCV like hose piece for a solid piece of hose. Solid connections on both ends. Few bucks from a scrapper.
Got some 1/4" hose to replace the cracked nasty one that came off the intake... but there is a smaller piece of plastic tubing that attaches to a hose coming off the intake... runs through the hose, and then the hose itself connects to the side of the valve cover....
Question... would there be any harm in running straight hose from the nipple on the intake, to the nipple on the valve cover? It just looks ghetto as is.
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Jul 14, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #17  
Found a few more things to do. Found that my motor mounts are mostly shot. Missing rubber from the bolt holes up, so the bolts are cradled in the bottom of the mount on the remaining rubber. These are getting swapped Monday. Think I'll do an 02 sensor while I am at it. Gonna take care of the link bushings as well that day. Also got my crank sensor...so all of that is going in. It'll take me a little while, but should yield some positive results.
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Jul 14, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #18  
You can pull the drivers door card, should be a factory spec sheet back there, if nobody before you has torn it out.
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Jul 14, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #19  
Quote: "There are also two versionsof your rear, a 27 and a 29 spline. The 29s are a bit stronger."
-Is there a way to identify this without yanking the diff/axle out of the car?
Is that designated in any way by the preceding numbers on the housing?
Assuming that is the original axle, it should be a 27 spline. Sometime in '96 and earlier was 27 spline and some other time shortly thereafter was 29.

Sent from my Garminfone while fighting off ninjas
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Jul 14, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #20  
Tie rod ends are suppose to be dirty. That's how you know they're greased.
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Jul 15, 2011 | 12:32 AM
  #21  
paint the whole thing with black primer. the whole thing. badges, everything.

I saw one on craiglist for sale like that. Shoulda saved the pic because it did look cool in a nutty way.
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Jul 15, 2011 | 02:01 AM
  #22  
If I am gonna black it, I'm gonna do flat black. Painted my motorcycle flat black... and it just looks mean. Lol. Wrenching on it Monday... getting my parts tomorrow (as they arrived the other day, but I am waiting on my paycheck).
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Jul 15, 2011 | 04:12 AM
  #23  
best thing about the blacked out craiglist cherokee was that it had some real live knobby mud tires on it....3 on the ground, and one with a totally blown out sidewall sitting in the cargo area...(why they included that pic I don't know)

And the 4th tire they were running looked like the mini spare off a corolla or something.
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Jul 17, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #24  
Hooray for work weekends. Get to do a lot of stuff tomorrow.
Gonna:
Swap o2 sensor, CPS, link bushings, motor mounts, grease all chassis points I can reach, yank my fuel pump out and see if the screen is dirty, possibly clean and seal my PCV like valve thing (it's old, and there is a slight gap at the valve cover) and maybe pull my valve cover to see which lifter is the one ticking. Might replace the MAT and IAC too... just haven't quite decided whether those should go. I think the MAT and IAC are the two sensors left that will not have been replaced by the end of the day if I don't pick them up. Lol. I just don't trust old sensors to do their jobs at this point.

Either way, it will be a productive day...which will hopefully yield some good results.

Question... I know it is largely cosmetic... but I was thinking of yanking my fender flares, and picking up some wider ones... where do you guys get yours from? I have seen them on several Jeeps, and it looks brutecake.

Waffling between a flat black and an OD green paintjob in the near future. Might give the Jeep a good scrubbing to get most the ick off it after all wrench work is done. Would just do a scuff-n-blow on it... clean the scaling clear coat, rough up the surface, and blast it, then matte clear on top. Nothing fancy, nothing too difficult. I have an AC and HVLP spray gun from when I painted my motorbike's bodywork...which would make it easier. For what it is worth, I still have a quart of a nice dark green paint... but it's a really nice color, and I was wanting to save it for a motorcycle... where as a simple flat color would help hide some imperfections.
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Jul 19, 2011 | 01:49 AM
  #25  
Well, I got the motor mounts in. Feels MUCH better now. Makes a HUGE difference in how it behaves on the road, and just how the engine in general feels while running.

However, my links are thoroughly stuck... so no new bushings there. I don't think they contribute much to the slop. Maybe I'll get around to doing aftermarket links or something, and just cut the old ones off. Lol.

O2 sensor I got from Autozone is NOT correct. It has a different connector on it, though I am sure the sensor itself would have bolted right in. Tested my current O2 sensor, and it tested good. So that is getting returned. Also, the crankshaft sensor they sent me was also totally wrong. Completely different shape than what I have in there. I pulled it, cleaned it, and put it back in (it was pretty crusty). Still not sure if that is the main culprit or not. It works, but do not know if it is always advancing the timing at the 55-65mph range (the main gremlin in my machine). So that is going back as well.

I greased all the front end joints. No slop in them either. This is good.

Tested fuel pressure. It runs at 30psi. The manual says the 2.5L should run 31-33psi. Is this an issue? Should I replace my pump? I am really worried that it *might* be on the out, and would rather replace it before it kicks the bucket and leaves me stranded. Thoughts on this?

Decided I hated the stock airbox. Changing that out with el-cheapo pseudo ricer thingy from eBay. I double checked the vehicle compatibility, and it shows two lines coming off the tube, which is what I need. One goes to the "fresh air" PCV valve like thing, and the other goes to I don't know where yet. Not too many cheap things that you can do to try and eek more power out of a 2.5L... it's a durable motor, but not the most powerful thing out there. No replacement for displacement and all that. Still, if the gains are even marginal, I'll call it good enough.
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Jul 29, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #26  
More updates.
For any of you guys running a '93 Jeep.... you may have a late model '93. Many of my sensors that were incorrect appear to be '94 spec. At least those tested good, so I didn't have to replace them.

Ordered a new head gasket, intake/exhaust... got a set of 703 injectors for it, as well as a o-ring set. Also have lift shackles on order as well. Should have it all installed within two weeks or so given my schedule. I still haven't gotten rid of the loss of power/backfiring at 55-65mph... suspect head gasket, and while I am at it, I am gonna inspect the head, and clean the lifters and pushrods. Be a busy day when I get around to it... hoping for some positive results. Gaskets are cheap, where having my Jeep good at running around town, and 55mph or less is just annoying. Should be sitting a couple inches higher in the near future...will have to take pics to document the results. Hopefully my tires don't look retarded after that, but I can always save up for some 31"s or something.
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Jul 29, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #27  
this is a little scary to be honest....




whats up with the rad/cooler? that is not stock by any means
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Jul 29, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #28  
Quote: paint the whole thing with black primer. the whole thing. badges, everything.
Black is great if you're trying to hide this thing from everyone's view... and do something about those wheels - assuming they aren't about to fall apart due to rust. Looking at your underbody, this ship's been out at sea a long while, huh? I hope you don't have to put more into thsi rig than it's actually worth - Edmunds doesn't put a high price on anything older than a '99 it seems. My '96 is dangerously close to being upside down in resale value... it's just in really good shape.
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Jul 29, 2011 | 12:24 PM
  #29  
'whats up with the rad/cooler? that is not stock by any means"
-That is how I got it. Looked to be proper. When I still had a fan shroud, it fit the radiator, and had the correct belt routing sticker on it. I since put that sticker on the fuse block, since the fan shroud broke some time ago...
those lines are looking better, I have since swapped them out (fresh air, and CCV). If my radiator is not stock... what does the stock one look like? I'm not running a 4.0, but the modest 2.5L.
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Jul 29, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #30  
Quote: If my radiator is not stock... what does the stock one look like? I'm not running a 4.0, but the modest 2.5L.
that may be what is throwing me off.
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