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talk me out of bedlining my headliner, unless it's a good idea

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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #1  
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From: Oviedo, FL / Campbellsville, KY
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 HO
Default talk me out of bedlining my headliner, unless it's a good idea

So my DD has finally fallen victim to the saggy headliner syndrome, and i'm looking to take the easy way out. I would like to re-line it with material, but really don't feel like fooling with it.

I've seen a few guys on here an other places use the spray on bedliner, but have not seen much info on how it holds up or how hot it actually makes the cabin. I've only seen the "it's going to be hot and noisy" from some folks, but not from people who have actually done it. I don't know how much more insulating a tiny bit of foam is over the bedliner material.

So is it worth doing? or should I just spend the time and money on doing it "right"?

I've also looked at various insulating materials but they are pretty pricey and likely not worth the cost.


I should also note another deciding factor is the local walmart doesn't have any material I would want to use and the closest place to buy some is an hour away. I'm going out to remove the saggy stuff right now cause it sits on top of my head as I drive and annoys the **** out of me so maybe I'll drive it a couple days and answer my own questions about heat and noise if it's acceptable with no headliner at all.

Last edited by boondocksaint; Aug 9, 2014 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 05:28 PM
  #2  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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You can have it done at a shop for just over a $100 with the correct material I did, seems a shame to ruin it for so little money.
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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Reupholstering the headliner really isn't that hard. I got my fabric from JoAnn fabrics. Ordering it online may also be a good option.
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 02:01 PM
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I used Rustoleum's undercoating on mine. It's a better insulator than standard truck bed coating and it only took 2 cans. It's a little noisier but not much and I have zero heat issues with it. And yes, mine's my DD and i'd do the same thing to any other XJ I may buy. You never have worry about it getting wet, ripped, or sagging and if it does get marred it just takes a quick spray to fix it.
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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From: Oviedo, FL / Campbellsville, KY
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Originally Posted by no rdplz
I used Rustoleum's undercoating on mine. It's a better insulator than standard truck bed coating and it only took 2 cans. It's a little noisier but not much and I have zero heat issues with it. And yes, mine's my DD and i'd do the same thing to any other XJ I may buy. You never have worry about it getting wet, ripped, or sagging and if it does get marred it just takes a quick spray to fix it.
Did you just use a wire brush or something to get all the glue off and spray it on or did you do any other prep work?
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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I know you can apply both products, just don't remember which one first.

http://www.lizardskin.com/
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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From: Oviedo, FL / Campbellsville, KY
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That lizard skin is nice but very pricey.

Does anyone know what size the rear seatbelt bolt is? I've seen T40-T55 and the kobalt set I got only goes up to T50 so if it's a 55 I wanna take it back before I open is and get my $25 back.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by boondocksaint
That lizard skin is nice but very pricey.

Does anyone know what size the rear seatbelt bolt is? I've seen T40-T55 and the kobalt set I got only goes up to T50 so if it's a 55 I wanna take it back before I open is and get my $25 back.
T50 for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee

Spray it down with some penetrating oil or WD-40 before you go at them. Trust me it will help.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by boondocksaint
That lizard skin is nice but very pricey.

Does anyone know what size the rear seatbelt bolt is? I've seen T40-T55 and the kobalt set I got only goes up to T50 so if it's a 55 I wanna take it back before I open is and get my $25 back.
My 1996 also uses T-50 for seatbelts.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by boondocksaint
Did you just use a wire brush or something to get all the glue off and spray it on or did you do any other prep work?
Didn't even use the board. Sprayed it directly to the metal roof and switched my mirror for a late 90's one from a Buick with map lights that I wired in.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #11  
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From: Oviedo, FL / Campbellsville, KY
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Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by no rdplz
Didn't even use the board. Sprayed it directly to the metal roof and switched my mirror for a late 90's one from a Buick with map lights that I wired in.
Oh ok well I want to use the board, I'm trying to keep this one somewhat presentable.

I've got the board scraped down and scrubbed with soap and water, just waiting for a sunny day that I'm off work to start spraying it. I haven't noticed much difference with the bare metal roof, it's a tiny bit noisier but I have all 4 windows down 98% of the time so it hasn't bothered me.

I'll toss some pics up whenever I get it done. Thanks for the help so far
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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From: Oviedo, FL / Campbellsville, KY
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Engine: 4.0 HO
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Finally got the board done today, weather and work have kept postponing it for me.

It's not bad, but not what I was envisioning (nothing ever is, it seems). It would look good if your board is in good shape, but mine had some holes and was torn up a little up in the front over the two seats, and those areas still look a little rough.

I probably should have paid a couple extra bucks and gotten the roll-on kit, but it might have turned out the same, who knows. I used 3 cans of the spray on stuff, and i found a 4th in my old jeep that I might use to touch up some spots when it's dried.

Final assessment: Doesn't look horrible, but it's something I probably should have done to my beater jeep rather than my DD. However, I'm satisfied as it was much easier than re-lining it with material, and i never have to worry about it sagging again.
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