Sye question
01-09-2011, 01:02 AM
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
Sye question
So I have been looking into an Sye. My jeep needs one pretty bad I already went through one driveshaft and thinking it needs some work again. I've found quite a few I like but what's a good brand of sye? I'm looking for one under 300. I found a teraflex advance adapters and a rugged ridge one are these brands any good for them? Those were all on 4wd.com but im curious in what would y'all would recommend?
01-09-2011, 05:10 AM
#2
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advanced adapters is one of the best, rugged ridge is a nice clone of the AA.
then there's jb conversions. they have a super short sye that is very nice.
these are all for the np231 t-case.
if you have a 242 case, all you can do is a hack and tap.
i bought the rugged ridge for 200 a couple years ago. but it's still sitting in box in the garage.
then there's jb conversions. they have a super short sye that is very nice.
these are all for the np231 t-case.
if you have a 242 case, all you can do is a hack and tap.
i bought the rugged ridge for 200 a couple years ago. but it's still sitting in box in the garage.
01-09-2011, 11:04 AM
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Slip Yoke Eliminator.
Taken from, High Impact Transmission and Gear website.
New Process 231 & 241 cases almost always come from the factory with a slip-yoke rear output. As the suspension in the vehicle moves up and down, the driveline needs to become shorter and longer to accommodate this. The low cost way to do this is to use a "slip yoke" on the rear of the transfer case. This slip yoke can "slip" or slide in and out of the rear of the case allowing for changein in driveline position. A slip yoke works fine when driveline angles are minimal: The pressure on the slip yoke is more or less straight in and out. However, when driveline angles exceed stock, the slip yoke then tries to operate at an angle: When the rear axle bumps up going over a bump, the force pushing on the slip yoke is at an angle, and tends to bind. This angular stress can cause the transfer case housing to crack. Any time a driveline gets much of any angle on it, you want to get rid of that slip yoke. It saved the factory a few bucks, but is no good for lifted 4x4s. (you will also need to modify or change the driveshaft to a unit that has a slip joint in it: That length change when the axle goes up and down has gotta go somewhere!)
Taken from, High Impact Transmission and Gear website.
New Process 231 & 241 cases almost always come from the factory with a slip-yoke rear output. As the suspension in the vehicle moves up and down, the driveline needs to become shorter and longer to accommodate this. The low cost way to do this is to use a "slip yoke" on the rear of the transfer case. This slip yoke can "slip" or slide in and out of the rear of the case allowing for changein in driveline position. A slip yoke works fine when driveline angles are minimal: The pressure on the slip yoke is more or less straight in and out. However, when driveline angles exceed stock, the slip yoke then tries to operate at an angle: When the rear axle bumps up going over a bump, the force pushing on the slip yoke is at an angle, and tends to bind. This angular stress can cause the transfer case housing to crack. Any time a driveline gets much of any angle on it, you want to get rid of that slip yoke. It saved the factory a few bucks, but is no good for lifted 4x4s. (you will also need to modify or change the driveshaft to a unit that has a slip joint in it: That length change when the axle goes up and down has gotta go somewhere!)
01-09-2011, 12:12 PM
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advance adapters is one of the best know brands for SYE there only 210 shipped for the NP231 cant go wrong there and the difference between having one and not having one is night and day highly suggest an advance adapters sye.
01-09-2011, 01:02 PM
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i know people say you have to get a custom drive shaft, but i was wondering if you did get aa or the rugged ridge kit, could you still use the front shaft like you would with a hack n tap? sorry to steal thread, but its along the same because just sye will need a shaft other than the oem rear i kno for sure.
01-09-2011, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RkyMtnH
Slip Yoke Eliminator.
Taken from, High Impact Transmission and Gear website.
New Process 231 & 241 cases almost always come from the factory with a slip-yoke rear output. As the suspension in the vehicle moves up and down, the driveline needs to become shorter and longer to accommodate this. The low cost way to do this is to use a "slip yoke" on the rear of the transfer case. This slip yoke can "slip" or slide in and out of the rear of the case allowing for changein in driveline position. A slip yoke works fine when driveline angles are minimal: The pressure on the slip yoke is more or less straight in and out. However, when driveline angles exceed stock, the slip yoke then tries to operate at an angle: When the rear axle bumps up going over a bump, the force pushing on the slip yoke is at an angle, and tends to bind. This angular stress can cause the transfer case housing to crack. Any time a driveline gets much of any angle on it, you want to get rid of that slip yoke. It saved the factory a few bucks, but is no good for lifted 4x4s. (you will also need to modify or change the driveshaft to a unit that has a slip joint in it: That length change when the axle goes up and down has gotta go somewhere!)
Taken from, High Impact Transmission and Gear website.
New Process 231 & 241 cases almost always come from the factory with a slip-yoke rear output. As the suspension in the vehicle moves up and down, the driveline needs to become shorter and longer to accommodate this. The low cost way to do this is to use a "slip yoke" on the rear of the transfer case. This slip yoke can "slip" or slide in and out of the rear of the case allowing for changein in driveline position. A slip yoke works fine when driveline angles are minimal: The pressure on the slip yoke is more or less straight in and out. However, when driveline angles exceed stock, the slip yoke then tries to operate at an angle: When the rear axle bumps up going over a bump, the force pushing on the slip yoke is at an angle, and tends to bind. This angular stress can cause the transfer case housing to crack. Any time a driveline gets much of any angle on it, you want to get rid of that slip yoke. It saved the factory a few bucks, but is no good for lifted 4x4s. (you will also need to modify or change the driveshaft to a unit that has a slip joint in it: That length change when the axle goes up and down has gotta go somewhere!)
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01-09-2011, 04:01 PM
#8
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i know people say you have to get a custom drive shaft, but i was wondering if you did get aa or the rugged ridge kit, could you still use the front shaft like you would with a hack n tap? sorry to steal thread, but its along the same because just sye will need a shaft other than the oem rear i kno for sure.
01-09-2011, 04:55 PM
#9
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Year: 1999.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, I6
x2 im running a front stocker shaft as my rear shaft atm till i can save up enough to get some woodys. i mean there is vibrations there but its not bad at all.
01-09-2011, 06:26 PM
#11
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Year: 1995
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Engine: straight 6
Also so you have to get custom front and rear drivshafts when you install one of these? Front and back? My jeep is a 95 auto i6 4x4 I that helps.
01-09-2011, 06:59 PM
#13
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Year: 99
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i'm been running stock front cherokee driveshafts for the front and rear of both my lifted jeeps. it's been about 5 years with them on 33 and 35" tires and hard wheeling. never had a problem with one
01-09-2011, 07:14 PM
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No. You will just need a new rear D/S only. You will get a double cardan driveshaft. Yes, you can use a front d/s from an xj. ( It will most likely need to be lengthened depending on the rear you have. ) Assuming you are not running a D44, the d/s would need to be lengthened.