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Old 04-29-2015, 10:19 AM
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Default Rust & paint fade prevention

My cherokee is starting to show signs of paint fade and rust in certain areas.

Rust is forming around the top of the windshield where the rubber meets the paint, also same thing above the rear hatch window, underside of the front doors and around the key locks in the door.

Curious to know what I could do to either fix the rust or cover it with something to prevent it from getting worse. Was going to take it to a body shop to see what my options are, but don't want to sink too much $$ into it.

I know this is inevitable, but if i can postpone it, I will do my best.

Thx!
Old 04-29-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokee001
My cherokee is starting to show signs of paint fade and rust in certain areas. Rust is forming around the top of the windshield where the rubber meets the paint, also same thing above the rear hatch window, underside of the front doors and around the key locks in the door. Curious to know what I could do to either fix the rust or cover it with something to prevent it from getting worse. Was going to take it to a body shop to see what my options are, but don't want to sink too much $$ into it. I know this is inevitable, but if i can postpone it, I will do my best. Thx!
Well the windshield is something to pay attention to. The seal is two part, the windshield is held in by sealant and the black rubber trim is put in after. If the rust is bad, I would consider pulling the glass, cleaning the frame and repairing any rust, then having it reinstalled. Very likely it will get broken, but if rust continues it will spread and let water into bad places. You might be able to pull the trim and leave the glass in but most people have to pull it all.
Old 04-29-2015, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Cheddarnut
Well the windshield is something to pay attention to. The seal is two part, the windshield is held in by sealant and the black rubber trim is put in after. If the rust is bad, I would consider pulling the glass, cleaning the frame and repairing any rust, then having it reinstalled. Very likely it will get broken, but if rust continues it will spread and let water into bad places. You might be able to pull the trim and leave the glass in but most people have to pull it all.
I'm getting water down the side of the interior door hinge area into the passenger side floor near the fusebox. I'm thinking the rust up there is the cause of this. My shop hasn't been able to diagnose it so need to take it to an autobody shop to confirm. I could see how much it would run for them to pull the windshield and fix the lining if that is actually causing the leak. thx
Old 04-29-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokee001
I'm getting water down the side of the interior door hinge area into the passenger side floor near the fusebox. I'm thinking the rust up there is the cause of this. My shop hasn't been able to diagnose it so need to take it to an autobody shop to confirm. I could see how much it would run for them to pull the windshield and fix the lining if that is actually causing the leak. thx
good plan, spend money now to save later.
Old 04-29-2015, 01:53 PM
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Yea, around the windshield is a common and terrible place to start rusting. If rust is creeping out from the trim, it will likely be very bad in the windshield frame channels. And will easily leak!
Only way to remedy is what Cheddarnut suggested. It is a big undertaking and will involve metal work if rust-holes have formed.
I am sorry you have to deal with that.
Old 04-29-2015, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Yea, around the windshield is a common and terrible place to start rusting. If rust is creeping out from the trim, it will likely be very bad in the windshield frame channels. And will easily leak!
Only way to remedy is what Cheddarnut suggested. It is a big undertaking and will involve metal work if rust-holes have formed.
I am sorry you have to deal with that.
Yeah well the truck sits outside so rain is an issue, i leave a towel under my passenger side floor mat to soak up any leakage. Big rainstorms are the only big issue. Depending on what the body shop says will be the tell tale sign how many days she has, because overall the jeep is in gorgeous shape, really a gem for the age. Can't be dumping $$$$$$ into a future rust bucket.
Old 04-29-2015, 02:45 PM
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If it has been leaking for any period of time, I would pull back the carpet on passenger and driver side floor and have a look at the condition of sheetmetal.
The door bottoms are another common place for rust, but also around the keyholes is a new one for me. Is there water/moisture inside the doors? There are drain holes but they can get plugged.

I spent a lot of time finding an XJ that had zero corrosion. Found it in a 1996 Classic with 145,000 miles.
Old 05-01-2015, 08:52 AM
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These are my trouble areas... figured i'd post photos if that helps with my options.




top of the jeep looks the worst, looks worse in photos than in person, i added some putty to the top where there was more rust to help prevent more corrosion but will have that looked at my a body shop.



Old 05-01-2015, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokee001
These are my trouble areas... figured i'd post photos if that helps with my options. top of the jeep looks the worst, looks worse in photos than in person, i added some putty to the top where there was more rust to help prevent more corrosion but will have that looked at my a body shop.
yeah the first two pics you could handle easy with a rattle can and some taping off while you spray. That top corner is nasty, definitely will need to pull the glass and repair that or it's going to be lots worse later.
Old 05-01-2015, 10:19 PM
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The lock rust spot is from a key rings keys scratching the paint when they unlocked it over and over.
Old 05-02-2015, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
The lock rust spot is from a key rings keys scratching the paint when they unlocked it over and over.
Doubt it. It's on the passenger side. Unless the previous owner did a lot of opening the door for his wife/gf LOL
Old 05-02-2015, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cherokee001
Doubt it. It's on the passenger side. Unless the previous owner did a lot of opening the door for his wife/gf LOL
Well either way you've got rust.lol. It's kind of a job, but you can take off the interior trim and remove the cylinder. Then just sand/grind away the rust and repaint. Couple places online will sell you original paint color based on the vin for about 20 bucks a can. Get a couple and you can do that rear hatch too. Not worth paying a body shop for that type of work.
Old 05-02-2015, 10:05 AM
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Often when rust appears on the outside of the XJ, it originates from, or is worse, on the inside of panel, rocker, floorpan, etc.
The doors and body panels are galvanized but only have overspray paint on the inside and usually rust from the inside out.

For inside of doors, I used a product that is clear, it creeps into crevices, and will not harm window switches or wiring. Applied with a fog wand. Also coated insides of rocker panels, B-pillar and frame rails.
Pillar, doors and frame-rails have rubber plugs that are removed to insert fog wand.
Used asphalt based coating in frame-rails. It also 'creeps' into crevices and any bare or rusted metal will absorb the oils from it.
Old 05-04-2015, 08:45 AM
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On the bottom of the lock it sure looks like Steve said a key ring dragging on the paint a lot locking/unlocking the door for some reason.


From the photos of the top had it been damaged by a tree limb or something it looks dented? Well no matter it needs to be fixed I would take it to a glass shop and have them pull the windshield for you and clean it all up. Then you can see what needs to be done to it. If its something you think you can handle drive it home (hope its close) and fix it then return and buy a new seal and have replace the windshield.............Or like you said just take it to the body shop (most costly) and have them repair. Just check the floors close for rust also.
Old 05-04-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Cheddarnut
Well either way you've got rust.lol. It's kind of a job, but you can take off the interior trim and remove the cylinder. Then just sand/grind away the rust and repaint. Couple places online will sell you original paint color based on the vin for about 20 bucks a can. Get a couple and you can do that rear hatch too. Not worth paying a body shop for that type of work.
Seems like a body shop job to do it right.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Often when rust appears on the outside of the XJ, it originates from, or is worse, on the inside of panel, rocker, floorpan, etc.
The doors and body panels are galvanized but only have overspray paint on the inside and usually rust from the inside out.

For inside of doors, I used a product that is clear, it creeps into crevices, and will not harm window switches or wiring. Applied with a fog wand. Also coated insides of rocker panels, B-pillar and frame rails.
Pillar, doors and frame-rails have rubber plugs that are removed to insert fog wand.
Used asphalt based coating in frame-rails. It also 'creeps' into crevices and any bare or rusted metal will absorb the oils from it.
lost me. Are you referring to spraying paint over rust on the bottom of the doors? Not sure what a fog wand is or which rubber plugs you're referring to. I'll have to look at the doors.

Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
On the bottom of the lock it sure looks like Steve said a key ring dragging on the paint a lot locking/unlocking the door for some reason.


From the photos of the top had it been damaged by a tree limb or something it looks dented? Well no matter it needs to be fixed I would take it to a glass shop and have them pull the windshield for you and clean it all up. Then you can see what needs to be done to it. If its something you think you can handle drive it home (hope its close) and fix it then return and buy a new seal and have replace the windshield.............Or like you said just take it to the body shop (most costly) and have them repair. Just check the floors close for rust also.
Top is smooth, no tree limb. Just discoloration from water getting under the paint somehow. I took it to a body shop, they recommended removing the glass and seeing what's wrong. Couldn't guarantee that they wouldn't damage the windshield and i might need to buy a new one. Said around $1000 plus windshield. give or take a couple hundred.


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