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Rough Country 6.5" Long Arm?

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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #16  
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I contacted RC about this issue, its all because of the skid for the transfer case that bolts to the transmission crossmember... Here will show you why, diffrence between a 231 and 242..

Skid for 231


Skid for 242


Ive put off buying the RC LA kit until they get the issue with the skid straighened out, for that kinda money, im not buying anything i have to modify to make work...
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 08:18 AM
  #17  
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^ exactly what i was thinking. im still really torn on what kit would provide the most flex. im thinking the IRO but the caster adjustment thing and it just having one lower bothers me. if it fails, youre effed
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 08:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by matt62485
^ exactly what i was thinking. im still really torn on what kit would provide the most flex. im thinking the IRO but the caster adjustment thing and it just having one lower bothers me. if it fails, youre effed
That goes with most long arm kits. Break a lower arm on a radius setup and you are effed too. It rarely happens so I wouldn't worry about it, and besides you should be wheeling with others that can assist you in repairing the breakage.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #19  
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good point.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Swamp Donkey
I contacted RC about this issue, its all because of the skid for the transfer case that bolts to the transmission crossmember... Here will show you why, diffrence between a 231 and 242..

Skid for 231


Skid for 242


Ive put off buying the RC LA kit until they get the issue with the skid straighened out, for that kinda money, im not buying anything i have to modify to make work...
Getting the skid to be 242-compatable is very easy to do. I'm not sure why RC hasn't done it yet. When you install the t-case crossmember that comes with the kit, it drops the drivetrain about 1.5" cuz the crossmember is 1/4" thick steel, not 2" (thin but hollow) like the stock crossmember. All they or you have to do is weld on some steel so it raises the tranny mount surface an inch and the 242 should fit.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #21  
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true. im really debating on the 5.5" IRO kit though. the only gripe i have is it comes with 3.5" springs and 1-1.5" shackle out back and 5.5" springs up front... don't seem like it would sit very level to me?
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by matt62485
true. im really debating on the 5.5" IRO kit though. the only gripe i have is it comes with 3.5" springs and 1-1.5" shackle out back and 5.5" springs up front... don't seem like it would sit very level to me?
That's weird how it doesn't come with an even lift front/rear but I bet their rear springs will net more than advertised. It's good to have a low-lift spring and shackle combination for better flex cuz a high lift spring like 5" or so won't flex real well and would ride rough.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #23  
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i dunno but i wanna make sure its even before i order it. if not ill go with the 6.5" i just dont want it to be too high.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #24  
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If im not mistaken, IRO LA kit doesnt have adjustable control arms. That is something i tread away from. Have you looked at Rustys?
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #25  
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yea rustys, iro, or RC were my 3 choices. the IRO just seems to provide the most flex range and seems to be really well. i dunno wtf im gonna do now. been reading for the past 3 hours on this stuff.

i think its b/t rustys and iro at this point. alot of local guys run rustys and i like em, but the iro kit looks nice too. i know i wont ever go higher if i go 5.5" so why the need of adjustable?
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by matt62485
x2. been debating RC, Rustys or IRO. opinions?

whats going to provide the most flex and strength?
both will provide more than enough flex. what will limit you is other components in the suspension

Originally Posted by muddeprived
That goes with most long arm kits. Break a lower arm on a radius setup and you are effed too. It rarely happens so I wouldn't worry about it, and besides you should be wheeling with others that can assist you in repairing the breakage.
on the flipside of things i don't want to wheel with people who cut corners in building their rig. if one person breaks the whole group is stuck while it gets repaired.

Originally Posted by matt62485
true. im really debating on the 5.5" IRO kit though. the only gripe i have is it comes with 3.5" springs and 1-1.5" shackle out back and 5.5" springs up front... don't seem like it would sit very level to me?
nothin wrong with that.



i am not a fan of iro

i certainly wouldnt want to trust a single 10mm bolt holding my front axle in place.

and thats just the tip of the iceberg
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 04:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by muddeprived
Getting the skid to be 242-compatable is very easy to do. I'm not sure why RC hasn't done it yet. When you install the t-case crossmember that comes with the kit, it drops the drivetrain about 1.5" cuz the crossmember is 1/4" thick steel, not 2" (thin but hollow) like the stock crossmember. All they or you have to do is weld on some steel so it raises the tranny mount surface an inch and the 242 should fit.

See thats the thing, yea i myself could make the skid work simply. But.... by the time you pay taxes, shipping and handling your gonna spend about $1550 for the kit. Im not spending that kinda money on something i gotta modify to make it work period.

IRO just looks good because of the ZJ on their site, gotta remember thats a coil sprung Jeep on all 4 corners. Also, i wouldnt buy IRO, their control arms are non-adjustable and too the Y-Link in my opinion is weak.

Im lookin into buying the TNT Long Arm kit, simply because from the reviews, they are on top in products, also, their long arm kit is high clearence, the mounting point for lower control arms are tucked in under the Jeep dont stick down under the unibody like all the others do. Im probably gonna order the TNT LA conversion kit and piece together all the rest of it.





Last edited by Swamp Donkey; Dec 26, 2009 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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i think im going to go with what i had originally planned to do and go with Rusty's 4.5" and run 32s on the rubi wheels i just picked up. worse comes to worse I know their springs are good and I can always get different long arms.

long arms are making me very indecisive bc everyone points out good points from kit to kit

i want a kit to straight bolt up, no bull****. if im paying that kind of money it better bolt/weld right up. if im going to fiddle faddle fabbing w/ stuff, im going to make my own arms.
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:27 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by matt62485
i think im going to go with what i had originally planned to do and go with Rusty's 4.5" and run 32s on the rubi wheels i just picked up. worse comes to worse I know their springs are good and I can always get different long arms.

long arms are making me very indecisive bc everyone points out good points from kit to kit

i want a kit to straight bolt up, no bull****. if im paying that kind of money it better bolt/weld right up. if im going to fiddle faddle fabbing w/ stuff, im going to make my own arms.

if your gonna buy rustys you might as well just build the arms yourself.......they use tractor parts for the ends. they have alot of play, are noisy, and wear out quick if yoiu actually wheel your jeep.

making a spcer for the rc kit would be cheap and easy. its worth fabbing a tiny little spacer to get a way better quality product.
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:12 AM
  #30  
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well lookin at the RC, by the time I get the finances in order to get the kit, they will have the crossmember for the 242 available. At this point though I've been considering swapping to a 231 anyways so I can run a locker up front w/ no worries

never heard the tractor parts thing though.
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