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rotted floors time to replace any advice?

Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
jbarger4's Avatar
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From: eau claire
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Default rotted floors time to replace any advice?

So i knew my floor was bad but today i thought was as good a time as ever to rip the carpet out and get started patching it back together
My final plan as of now is to box the uni body rails in from all 4 sides and use that to connect some sort of roll cage to strengthen up the whole truck a bit i notice when its tweaked real bad on the trail i can not open the back hatch or the some of the doors

then my plan is to rino line
The hole floor so it can be swamped and then just washed out but keep my carpet around for winter I'm guessing it would be quite cold without it

Move as much wiring up to the roof as possible so if it dose get water and mud inside it wont hurt anything

Anyways this is what i found today
Attached Thumbnails rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_222859.jpg   rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_222927.jpg   rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_222951.jpg   rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_223009.jpg   rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_223053.jpg  

rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_223115.jpg   rotted floors time to replace any advice?-forumrunner_20110623_223145.jpg  
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #2  
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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I'm going through the same thing. Not as extreme, but I have small breaks in my manifold. I'm going to have to break through and weld over, before I paint the Herculiner.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #3  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I'm getting close to done with mine, passenger floor was mostly god but drivers had like two quarter size holes. It's just a big pain
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #4  
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From: Quebec, Canada
Year: 1992
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Mine was worst than that (minus trunk) so I went the new OEM floor route. (front-to-rear seats) Expensive, but that way I know that it's good for awhile. I have mine with no carpets and it wasn't cold at all last winter, even when it was -40 degrees. It hot as hell in summer though and I have a white Jeep. I don't care though as I don't wanna have carpets in there anymore. I have Husky liners for the front now and will buy the rears and trunk soon.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #5  
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wow.... if you are going to patch right it will take a LOT of work... I replaced a large section on my passenger floor with 16 gauge... but that was the extent of the repair... The rear 1/4 also needed help. Many just cut that part out and put a flat plate on there instead. Here is what I had to deal with... not to discourage... it wasn't nearly as bad as yours...





Here was my fix quoted from my build thread... I hope it helps you in some way...


Originally Posted by razor02097
Sunday 5/29/2011

Time to do something about the passenger floor...

Got the seat bracket out after a lot of fuss...


With the angle grinder i set to work removing the cancer.


Drilling out the spot welds was pretty easy all in all. I used a small crow bar and hammer to knock the sheet metal off.




Now I made a template and cut out a replacement panel out of 16 gauge steel. Covered the dash and welded it in.


Still have to seal it and install the seat bracket.

Monday 5/30/2011

Glorious memorial day. Thank a soldier and a veteran if you get a chance.

Today comes more cancer removal and repair... the rear quarter...

Yikes.... the angle grinder and sawsall come out to play again... I didn't get pics of the whole process because frankly I forgot in the 93* heat. The rust was cut out and from this pic you can get an idea of how much it was...


I ended up hand forming and welding in 3 pieces total. #1 and 2 was the back side and three was the outside body panel.


After forming the last piece I welded it in. I used metal fill and Seam sealant around all the welds to help get in all the tiny nooks inside and out.



After sanding it down on went the plastic filler.


After it dried I sanded it, primed and painted the closest rattle can color I could find.


On this pic you can see the color is brighter than the original. The line is from the tape and above that is the filler dust I haven't cleaned yet.


Okay 2 big repairs down. One smaller one to go....
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #6  
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From: eau claire
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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Yea looking at it today after work it is gonna be allot of work its bad

My plan is to cut the passenger and driver floors out and replace then just flat steel for the rear seat floors and another flat piece of steel for the rear area its gonna be fun
I just hope i have time to start on it this weekend
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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JakeWI's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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welcome to WI and the rust belt haha. that sucks. My old '93 was getting just as bad. my current '96 was originally from AZ and has been in WI for about half its life. Luckily its been spared so far.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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From: eau claire
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Yea its quite sad

But its good only the floor and rockers are rusted everything else is good

My dad bought it about 8 years ago from a guy that worked at the local jeep dealership it was his wife's car since new it had 130,000 when i finally convinced him it needed to be in my driveway not a shed

Anyways when i got it it was spotless you could tell this thing got detailed and waxed many many times not a spot of rust anywhere
underneath everything had factory paint on it

But in 3to 4 years it rusted out bad I'm guessing its because i have never really washed it in the winter and leave mud caked on it for weeks to months i figure i should probably just fix it i know its not worth moor than $800 to anyone but i know what it is and couldn't replace it for that
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #9  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by jbarger4
Yea its quite sad

But its good only the floor and rockers are rusted everything else is good

My dad bought it about 8 years ago from a guy that worked at the local jeep dealership it was his wife's car since new it had 130,000 when i finally convinced him it needed to be in my driveway not a shed

Anyways when i got it it was spotless you could tell this thing got detailed and waxed many many times not a spot of rust anywhere
underneath everything had factory paint on it

But in 3to 4 years it rusted out bad I'm guessing its because i have never really washed it in the winter and leave mud caked on it for weeks to months i figure i should probably just fix it i know its not worth moor than $800 to anyone but i know what it is and couldn't replace it for that
Dont listen to people on here... a inwashed Jeep is an unhappy Jeep
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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I wish i had pics of my 96, carpet hanging from the frames and all. I would say maybe 25% of the floor is left and that would be the transmission tunnel.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by TheJerm
I wish i had pics of my 96, carpet hanging from the frames and all. I would say maybe 25% of the floor is left and that would be the transmission tunnel.
That's how mine was.....but my trunk is OK still.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #12  
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From: Memphis,TN area
Year: 1998
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Engine: ERH 4.0L 16 Power Tech
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Originally Posted by razor02097
wow.... if you are going to patch right it will take a LOT of work... I replaced a large section on my passenger floor with 16 gauge... but that was the extent of the repair... The rear 1/4 also needed help. Many just cut that part out and put a flat plate on there instead. Here is what I had to deal with... not to discourage... it wasn't nearly as bad as yours...





Here was my fix quoted from my build thread... I hope it helps you in some way...
Nice work!
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #13  
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Thank you

I'm rockin bed liner now so I dont have to worry anymore
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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This needs done on mine too. Looks like fun
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...acement-20296/
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