So now that I run the 33s i need to regear, ha! Getting ready to take out my rear 8.25 to change gears, been anticipating this for awhile!

 

im taking mine for 4.88's and a front elocker on the 30th.
im super excited to

 

wish i had 4.56s in mine, but my 410 axles only cost me what ive put into the rear disk conversion

 

I just swapped in my rear D44 today with 4.88s. Its pretty awesome even though I've only driven it like a granny since I'm breaking in the ring and pinion

 

how is it with 33's?
i dont care about "high" rpm @ 65 (3000) because i have to put mine in 3rd and it runs at 3000 anyways or else it overheats the trans

how much difference did it make?

 

If your going to do any HD off roading go with a 4.56 gear they are much stronger than the small pinion 4.88's most of all with a 33" tire where a 4.56 is the correct gear.


I'm now running 2 different sets of tires and rims one set 33's on Soft Eights and the other a set of re-grooved 35's on Beadlocks. Only a few times that I wish for a 4.88 gear and those were getting fewer and fewer as I learned to drive on the 35's with 8 psi. Overall I'm very happy now with the 4.56's and Detroit lockers, you might want to think more about this, and do your lockers when you do the gears same labor and time.

 

after a month or so of heavy contemplation I decided to go in 4.10 since the largest I plan to run are 33s. Plus I run a d30 lp in the front right now and I can acquire a d30 hp in 4.10 and swap it in fairly easily. Once thats built I want to experience wheeling it "properly" geared before i throw a locker in it. I'll probably do a lockright locker in the rear. Going deeper gearing ill save for when i get stronger axles and e lockers front and rear

 

I might add the Lock right Locker doesnt require removal of the carrier so install seems pretty straight forward later on

 

With 35's at 4.56 you can make it up, over and through a LOT of stuff with skilled driving. I routinely wheel with a bunch of locked rubicon's on 37's, they pick poor lines and try to muscle through stuff. I pick good lines, and RARELY need to get pulled through something. The key is learning how to drive your rig unlocked. All the locked guys like to hit ledges with both wheels at the same time, unlocked you won't get up it, you gotta' hit it one wheel at a time (unless you wanna' bounce it. I have a deep seated aversion to breaking $tuff!).

I also contemplated going 4.88 as I am about to lock both axles and swap the front to an HP, but opted to stay at 4.56 for the larger pinion size/strength.

 

Just be glad you didn't start out with 3.07s....

 

lol indeed. I started out with 3.07's and swapped in a set of 3.55's from automatic cherokee and run 31"s on it, fantastical combination, love it. Plenty of power and still save more gas.

 

i don't do nasty hard core wheeling, but i think i will appreciate more low considering my location and how my jeep is set up.
and most everyone who wheels a xj here always regrets 4.56's.
i already ordered the 4.88's after months of thinking and comparing (and saving)
i also ordered a e locker and i have a rear detroit installed (8.25) so it stays.
Taking it to the shop in 3 days for the install.

 

You may consider running a 4.1 transfer case instead of re-gearing it again would be double in cost for the parts but then you would have street gears and also trail gears, unless you plan on going higher than 33"s. That is what was in my son-in laws Rubicon and that is super low for about little over a Grand to up-grade your transfer case.

 

well a tcase upgrade is scheduled in the future for sure

 

Ive got revolution gear and axle ring and pinion in 4.11 for an 8.25 and the master install, I also have a serious offroad 1 ton steering utk kit and I'm picking up a HP d30 in 4.10 hopefully this weekend. I might also try and cut out my rear fenders and weld sheet metal back in for larger wheel wells and flex room. I graduate high school tomorrow night and then I can finally start the install