Oil and Additives Comparison Thread
 

In lieu of yet another oil thread,I thought it would be a good idea if we could compile a list of oils and additives we have used or researched. I used Fram filters exclusively in my '88MJ for over 120K doesn't mean it was a good filter because my motor kept running all that time, God knows what internal damage was caused as a result of 'dry starts'...

I've been running Rotella 15W40 for a long time and have just recently upgraded to 5W40 as of yesterday. It was time for an oil change in my diesel, when I first started my truck in 20*F I could noticeably hear major clatter from the "cold start"... After replacing the oil, this morning there was no clatter !!! (other than typical diesel clatter :) )


I run Rotella T6 5W40 in the winter now and Rotella 15W40 for the summer along with wix or purolater filters.

I use motor oil for gun lube and have for years, also this oil can be used in motorcycles and many other vehicles including our beloved XJ's across the board.

Rotella 15W40 VS. Rotella 5W40

A lot of people claim Seafoam is a miracle worker but have no idea its chemical make-up..

In a nut shell you're putting in your vehicle..
Pale Oil (Mineral Oil)
Naptha (Paint Thinner, mineral spirits)
Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol)

MSDS link...
http://www.mta.ca/administration/fac...Co.%202010.pdf

I have yet to try Seafoam but plan to, I'm interested to see the results.. I also intend to make a home brewed batch for comparison.

Rotella T3, 5 quarts. MMO 1 quart. Wix or Napa Gold filter. Monitor sludge removal through the oil filler hole.

What's wrong with fram?

They are pieces of ****.

Seafoam is good if you have a older engine that is running like crap.But its more of a bandaid the problems will come back over time.rislone engine treatment will quiet down a lifter knock/chatter.What is wrong with fram is the anti drain back valve will stick and give you no to low oil pressure at start up,Or have stuttering oil pressure half way through the rpm range.And yes i have seen this myself first hand.

Not only is the anti-drainback valve a POS, the filter media is hot-glued, the bypass spring is weak, there's little filter media.

The best feature of a Fram is on the outside, the bedliner on it.

Seems to me an oil filter's best features should be INSIDE.

Yeah fram really looks bad inside, but sure is pretty on the outside... :D
Kinda seems like excessive pleats would restrict oil to freely move through on some of the tighter designs

This is why you just paint some bedliner on your filters when you get them. Puralator Gold has a nice texture to it though.

Purolator Gold or WIX filters for me. I've never trusted anything else. As for oil, I tend to use 10W- 30Castrol GTX. I've never had noise issues and and pressure has always been good. Living in Virginia Beach it's a good "all-season" oil for the weather we get.

I ran Seafoam through my engine (only went through the gas tank and the brake booster vacuum) right after I bought it only to clear out some of the carbon. It's the only time I've ever used it and I fouled out the #6 plug doing so. With that said, I think it's a waste of time and money.

I Must Really Be Blowing It
 

I use cheap Wal-Mart oil and Fram filters. 95 4-Runner 178,000 miles, 88 K1500 104,000, and the champ, 92 Isuzu PU 210,000 miles. I only leave the stuff on/in for 3000 miles. :laughing:

Are the filters on those cars mounted upside down or sideways like our Jeeps?

Just a quick question ill throw in here instead of a new thread.
Valvoline or Mobil1?
I run valvoline max-life in all my stuff because synth blends are good for high mileage and daily drivers, and valvoline has been in the game since the beginning.
Should I consider moving to full synth? If so valv or mob?
I've got a 92 with about 243k and live in iowa