Need Comments and Suggestion On Setup
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Need Comments and Suggestion On Setup
Well its winter time and im ready to start ordering parts to get this build on the way. I initially wanted to run 35X14.50 boggers but after much researching i dont believe the d30 will handle these without dumping a ton of money into it. I dont want to dump a ton of money into the axles because i plan to do a ton swap in the future.
So far im thinking
6.5" RC or 7.5" RE longarm lift
33" Swamper ltbs
4.88s F&R
Detroit Rear, Spartan Front
I keep having everyone tell me swampers are too heavy and i would have less of chance of breakage running a radial MT like bfg,Mickey thompson,Toyo even in 35s in those.
So far im thinking
6.5" RC or 7.5" RE longarm lift
33" Swamper ltbs
4.88s F&R
Detroit Rear, Spartan Front
I keep having everyone tell me swampers are too heavy and i would have less of chance of breakage running a radial MT like bfg,Mickey thompson,Toyo even in 35s in those.
#2
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
Why do you wanna run boggers/swampers so bad? I personally hated my swampers... but to each his own.
I ran my Dana 30 on 35's with an ARB and a V8 for a while,just be easy on the skinny pedal and don't use the locker unless ya really need it. Tire choice affects it alot, I would recommend some bfg km2's. They are not that heavy of a tire. I also ran stock LP grand cherokee shafts,I kept breaking cherokee 760x u joints and shafts- never once broke a zj shaft. If you are gonna go 6-7" of lift 33's will look funny IMO. Might as well go 35's... just remember what axes you have and don't beat the **** out of em.
Sorry for the long post hope it helps...
I ran my Dana 30 on 35's with an ARB and a V8 for a while,just be easy on the skinny pedal and don't use the locker unless ya really need it. Tire choice affects it alot, I would recommend some bfg km2's. They are not that heavy of a tire. I also ran stock LP grand cherokee shafts,I kept breaking cherokee 760x u joints and shafts- never once broke a zj shaft. If you are gonna go 6-7" of lift 33's will look funny IMO. Might as well go 35's... just remember what axes you have and don't beat the **** out of em.
Sorry for the long post hope it helps...
#3
Registered Users
I could go mutiple paragraphs here on alot of subjects with what your thinking but it's 430am and Im tired so I'll leave it at this... Why in the world would you want to dump 1200 bucks give or take a few hundred dollars on a regear in one set of axles then swap axles and spend another 1200 or so dollars and have to do it all over again.. makes no sense to me.. then again neither does your locker choices, unless that detroit is a tru trac..
Last edited by XJ Knight; 10-03-2011 at 03:44 AM.
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Why do you wanna run boggers/swampers so bad? I personally hated my swampers... but to each his own.
I ran my Dana 30 on 35's with an ARB and a V8 for a while,just be easy on the skinny pedal and don't use the locker unless ya really need it. Tire choice affects it alot, I would recommend some bfg km2's. They are not that heavy of a tire. I also ran stock LP grand cherokee shafts,I kept breaking cherokee 760x u joints and shafts- never once broke a zj shaft. If you are gonna go 6-7" of lift 33's will look funny IMO. Might as well go 35's... just remember what axes you have and don't beat the **** out of em.
Sorry for the long post hope it helps...
I ran my Dana 30 on 35's with an ARB and a V8 for a while,just be easy on the skinny pedal and don't use the locker unless ya really need it. Tire choice affects it alot, I would recommend some bfg km2's. They are not that heavy of a tire. I also ran stock LP grand cherokee shafts,I kept breaking cherokee 760x u joints and shafts- never once broke a zj shaft. If you are gonna go 6-7" of lift 33's will look funny IMO. Might as well go 35's... just remember what axes you have and don't beat the **** out of em.
Sorry for the long post hope it helps...
Well i dont plan to beat the **** out of the axle but im not going to be easy on it either.The taller lift is is because i rather do the lift once, i plan to go bigger tires and other goodies later on.
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
If it is a trail rig only and you are going to do an axle swap later I would save the $700 and weld up the spiders in the rear. I would only do gears if you know how to install them yourself... regearing with cost of parts could easily blow a grand.
#6
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
I could go mutiple paragraphs here on alot of subjects with what your thinking but it's 430am and Im tired so I'll leave it at this... Why in the world would you want to dump 1200 bucks give or take a few hundred dollars on a regear in one set of axles then swap axles and spend another 1200 or so dollars and have to do it all over again.. makes no sense to me.. then again neither does your locker choices, unless that detroit is a tru trac..
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