XJCO

I've been looking at XJs for quite some time but have yet to find a good one for me yet. Most are either way too rusty or have way too many miles (200k+).

Now I'm looking at a 2000 bone stock XJ sport, automatic transmission, with 92,000 miles. It looks to be in good shape, and I'm going to take a look at it in person this week. It's listed for $6900 which is right on par with KBB (but I'm planning on talking that down a bit).

I'm pretty confident in my knowledge at this point, just some quick questions, though:
1. People are telling me that cherokees have a lot of transmission problems and it will probably need replaced. Is this true? I have yet to see much on the web about this (they called it a "glass tranny"?)
2. I know the basics to check out on the jeep, rust, 4wd, etc. But is there anything specific to this year, or to lower mileage jeeps in particular that I should check thoroughly?

I know this is pretty damn generic but I could use any tips. I'm reading through this site as we speak, so forgive me if I'm posting common questions.

I'm no mechanic, just hoping my XJ can help me turn into one Recently graduated high school and unfortunately grew up without any mechanics in the family. I don't know anything about tools, let alone have them, and I certainly don't know mechanics. I've got big dreams for my XJ though, heres to hoping I can learn.

XJ Knight

The cylinder heads in the 00-01 if you ever over heat were prone to cracking do to a copper deficency. typically occurs after 100k miles. This is pretty much a 1000 dollar fix.. The years prior were fine as they used a cylinder head without issues. Not saying this would happen but alot of people have reported the issue.

The AW4 (automatic) transmision in the XJ's are stout.. Solid reliable awesome transmision.. Who ever told you that it wasn't any good doesn't know anything about jeeps.

At most a 2000 totally rust free with 92K is worth around 5000. Look at the rear axle if you plan to offroad it as the XJ came with two different rear axles.. A dana 35 which is a total turd and the much stonger C8.25 29s. Look at it closely for offroad abuse.. Not saying that a PO offroading it would be a bad thing but that can hurt value some.


Others will come along im sure latter this morning and into the day to give there 2 cents.. WELCOME TO CF



So you can be able to tell what rear axle is under the Jeeps you look at

XJCO

I do plan on doing some medium/light wheeling, no major crawling though. I guess it'll be more of an expedition type rig, I want to be capable of getting through most obstacles but it'll also be my commuter, so I'll keep it a bit more modest.
About the axels, thanks! I had no idea how to tell the difference between axels. They all came with a D35 in front, right? I never understood why the back needs to be stronger than the front. Aren't you only as capable as your weakest axel, or am I looking at it wrong?

Thanks for the tips

EDIT:
Also, I'm not sure where $5000 came from. This is through a dealer, and the dealer KBB is $7000. The private party KBB was around $6000. I'm trying to keep it through a dealer because most of the private party sales in my area have previously installed lifts and such that I want to stay away from. I'm in colorado, by the way.

XJ Knight

The all came with the D30 front.. Sorry I didn't designate that the D30 is a front axle not rear when I posted that pic.. thats my bad.. The High Pinion D30 is a very good axle.. Can handle up to a 35in tire locked all day long as long as your not bashing on rocks. The the Strait Axle D35 was never used as a front axle.

The rear axle needs to be stronger then the front cause there is continually more stress typically put on the rear axle as you are always sending power to that axle and it typically takes on more stress offroad as well.. Don't worry about that front axle unless you plan to go over 35in tires. Rear Axles: The dana 35 is good up to a 33in tire Open while the C8.25 29s can take on 33's locked all day long and 35s locked if you don't play hard in the rocks which you already said you wern't so your good on that.

On a quick TurD35 note while they are typically safe up to a 33in tire Open in rare instances they will blow up with a smaller tire on them then a 33 and at the same time survive just fine for a long time as long as you go easy on it with 35's.

Open - No Locker
Locked - With a Locker



on the price thing the 5k came from observation of cherokee's being sold for 5 years now.. I like the idea of going through a dealer and as you are always best to start out with a stock jeep.. a clean slate if you will. Colorado tends to typically be higher on costs for Jeeps meaning closer to blue book value. In the end if you like the Jeep and it checks out mechanicly go for it.. If you can when going through a dealer try to get the best warranty from them as possible.. when I got my old XJ it came with a 6 month 6000 mile warranty.. I ended up with a 2 year 24000 mile warranty cause I told them I wanted it and wouldn't buy the Jeep without it.
there are a bunch of nice XJ's out there so never be affraid to walk away.

prerunner1982

Being a 2000 it has a Low Pinion Dana 30 which is the same as in the Jeep Wrangler TJs.

XJ Knight

LOL.. thx.. mental typo on my part.. ^ the above is correct OP.. In 2000 and 2001 Jeep put the low pinion D30 on the cherokee's

XJCO

Ah, thanks guys. Well I went to look at that cherokee and it sold right before I got there. No big deal, went to look at a few more and only found one that was in decent-ish shape. I could use some advice on it, though:

2000
142,000 miles
Automatic
Looks to me like a C8.25 rear axle

It has a LITTLE layer of rust but doesn't look too advanced yet (it came from michigan 10 years ago)
Looks like the muffler is leaking a bit (saw a small puff coming from the center underneath)

This one is a bit cheaper than the other was, and the dealer said he won't barter down at all.

It seemed to drive pretty damn well but the suspension is fairly shot, as expected (I don't care, that's gonna be replaced anyways ) Could the leaking muffler just be the tip of the iceberg, or should I look past that? I'll be sure to have a mechanic look at it but might have to buy it first and use the lemon law to return it if it's bad.