jeepxj19

I tryed searching but I didn't have any luck. anyone have a good and easy to understand write up on switching out the stock injectors for neon injectors?

no rdplz

First and foremost, make sure you have new o-rings for the new injectors.

This is for 97+, it's probably the same for all XJ's, but this is from my 99 swap.
1. remove the air filter tube from the TB and the filter box, as well as the breather tube from the air filter box.
2. Disconnect the sensors from the TB.
3. Disconnect the vacuum line from the back of the TB.
4. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the TB to the intake manifold
5. remove the 2 bolts that attach the throttle cable bracket to the intake manifold
6. "Unclamp" the hoses from the top of the valve cover. Now move all the stuff you've unbolted out of the way of the fuel rail.
7. Remove the bolts that attach the fuel rail to the engine.
8. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the injectors.
9. Gently pull the fuel rail away from the engine. Be careful to not break the connector to the fuel line that at the front of the rail. You should have a little play room to move the rail around, but it's not much.
10. Once the fuel rail is off, remove the small metal clips from the injectors. They are right where the injectors meet with the rail. You need to reuse these so don't lose/bend/break them. A small flat head screw driver works very well to pop them off.
11. Hold the rail over something to catch some fuel (a medium tupperware container works very well, especially the kind Hillshire Farms lunch meat comes in) and remove the "rear" injector. Some fuel should come out of the opening.
12. With the "back" of the rail (where you just pulled the injector from) still over the container, pull the "front" injector. This will allow any remaining fuel to pour out of the rail freely.
13. Once the fuel is done draining from the rail, remove the other 4 injectors.
14. Make sure that all the o-rings from the stock injectors are out of the rail and the engine. If there's any gunk buildup in the engine holes, use a toothpick and a damp rag to clean the holes. Be careful to not let any crud get into the engine.
15. Make sure the new injectors have the o-rings and caps on them. Lube all the o-rings with a small amount of vaseline. This will keep them from tearing.
16. Plug each injector into the rail, and refasten the metal clips to "lock" them in place.
17. Firmly press the rail and injectors into place on the engine and install the bolts.
18. Put a small amount of di-electric grease in each electrical plug and reconnect them to the injectors.
19. Put the TB cable bracket, the TB, all hoses, and sensors back in place.
20. Start the Jeep, and check for any fuel leaks coming from either end of all the injectors. If there's a leak, pull everything off again and make sure the injectors and rail are fitted properly, as well as making sure there isn't any evidence of a ripped/torn o-ring. Put it all back together and recheck for leaks. If there are no leaks, turn off the Jeep.
21. Disconnect your battery terminals and hold them together for 30 seconds. After those 30 seconds, reattach the terminals to the battery.
22. Turn your ignition to the "ON" position - DO NOT START YOUR JEEP.
23. Turn your headlights on, wait 10 seconds, then turn them off.
24. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position.
25. Start your Jeep. Your ECU is now reset and will "relearn" the proper fuel trim levels for the new injectors over the next 50 warm up cycles.

jeepxj19

alright thanks man, yea i have a 98 so that will work fine

jeepman156

Hahaha, to reset the jeep sounds like you just wanna watch somebody make a fool outta themselves, haha. I also have a 98 and was having some trouble finding out which injectors to use, which year neon, etc. Also could I just go buy some new injectors for a neon from autozone or something?

Gee oh Dee

Why do you turn on the headlights?

I'm pretty sure that would work as long as you stick with the 703 injectors. I'm willing to bet, though, that you could get them cheaper at a yard or on here from Programbo.

no rdplz

This is the process Quadratec recommends for resetting the ECU. Why turn the lights on? I don't know what it does int eh process, but not doing the headlight thing makes it not reset. I do know that NOT resetting the ECU will result in your XJ running pretty rich. Trust me, I've done quite a few injector swaps on XJ's, and every time I reset the ECU. A few of my friends didn't think they needed it and they constantly complained about running rich. They finally reset the ECU, and voila!, no more running rich.

no rdplz

98-01 Neon's and Stratus's with the 2.0 4cyl are what you need to be looking in. Most will have the 703's (the injectors you need) but not all so make sure they're the right ones. Don't waste your money buying them from Autozone or any other car parts store. They're a rip off at $60 each. Check the for sale section on here and look for Programbo's thread. I only have a set of 784's right now and he carries the 703's more often than I do anyway.

Gee oh Dee

I believe you, I was just curious as to why this is done.

Even if someone debated the validity of your suggestion, I'd still prolly do it just to try. Its 10 seconds for peace of mind, and it can't hurt. Not going to kill a battery with 10 seconds of head light time.

no rdplz

Like I said, I don't know the why, just that it works. Now I'm curious as to the why though.

Gee oh Dee

Same here. I can't think of anything logical that would tie headlights into the ECU.

no rdplz

Maybe it sends the electrical current to the ECU that trips the reset, rather than a full start up of the engine that wouldn't?

Tural

ummm... did u drain the pressure from the fuel rail???

no rdplz

You don't have to drain the fuel rail pressure, but that would make it so you don't have to worry about fuel spilling when you swap the injectors. It's not much that comes out - maybe 1/3 cup - so I've never worried about it. That wouldn't have anything to do with resetting the ECU though. Whether you drain it or not, you'll still run rich if you don't reset the ECU.

Gee oh Dee

Exactly. You don't do anything to the FPR, so its still the same base pressure as it was before the injectors.

Tural

i did the injector swap with less than 5 drops of fuel spill under the engine bay. draining the valve into a soda bottle sure does help. just don't keep it in there cause it might melt the plastic.