Dobber'sYeep

I believe my head gasket is going/gone. Runs a little warm and there is oil in my radiator fluid.

I have the 4.0L and I am wondering if it is hard to change it myself. I have moderate wrenching knowledge and have a buddy who knows quite a bit more than me, but any input on whether I should try this myself or not would be greatly appreciated. Along with any tips and advice.\
Thanks guys!

ol"blue

I'll send you a Private Message.
Look through it and decide if you're up to doing the repair.

91familyxj

Its not to bad of a job just a little time and a good toruqe wrench and some torque specs as far as order I cant remember right now I would have to look it up but its not that bad. I just put mine back on not to long ago.

nasonguy

while its off get a mild P&P....

At the very least get the sucker nice and clean and shiney.

Paint the valve cover too for kicks.

It's an easy job, getting ready to do mine, going to replace dang near most of the cooling system along with it...

Just take your time and do it right, buy a chiltons manual, make sure you read it, make sure you follow it to the T, remember to loctite that one front bolt (number 15 I think) and torque all the bolts in the proper sequence/order, do it wrong and you'll warp the head...

5-90

#11, use PTFE/Teflon paste (I've used hardware store stuff without incident. You just need to seal that screw because it goes into the water jacket.)

Source new screws if the ones in there have paint marks on the heads - they're a modified "Torque to Yield" design, and are likely to rupture if you use them past two full torque cycles.

Torque specs are on my website, in the Tech section. Sequence is, standing on the driver's side:
- Start on the passenger centre screw (fourth one counting from either end.)
- Next screw is the one directly across from it.
- Continue in a clockwise spiral outwards.

(This is for tightening the screws. Work from the outside in for removal.)

Service the manifold gasket while you have the head off - it may be on its way out, and replacing it on-vehicle is a massive pain in the ****! Torque sequence is another clockwise spiral starting from the top centre screw (again, reverse for loosening.)

Use a torque wrench for the cylinder head screws, manifold screws, rocker arm screws, and (if you can get one) valve cover screws. Best to use a torque wrench with the value you want close to the middle of the range:
- Cylinder head screws are 110/100 (#11) pound-feet
- Rocker arm screws ~20 pound-feet
- Manifold screws 19-21 pound-feet
- Valve Cover screws ~7 pound-feet.

Replace the hardware for your manifolds. I prefer to use brass or bronze, but you can also use SAE5 carbon steel if you can't get brass or bronze. Make sure to reuse the washers under the screw heads!

Suggest using brass, bronze, or stainless hardware for the thermostat housing (the OEM screws are probably pretty nasty by now.)

Such screw sizes as I've been able to collect are also listed on a chart in the Tech section. If you get a measurement you don't see there, let me know what it is so I can add it...