Atmos

uhm hypothetically lets just say SYE'd 231. I was planning a spartan for the front 60. so is there another option besides warn lockouts? is there a way to make them stronger? I seem to read posts that advise against warn premiums. but lots of people run them

on the 10.25? yeah welded tubes and a truss sure. I just havent researched that axle at all because it made more sense to just go straight to a 60 or 14. what are the pros of a 10.25 vs. a 60? or 14?

93XJLI

35 spline alloy stubs and Yukon lockouts.

Atmos

alloys are really needed for 37's? or it would be dumb to buy 30 spline lockouts and have to change them out again if I ever go 35 spline. I read on pirate not to buy anything from yukon becuase they have bad axle products

94XjSport94

Ahh... Well just kidding then lol I like this thread

RWKHausSupply

Maybe 7-10yrs ago...

in the last few years, Yukon has proved to offer the strongest (Hands down) D60 axles out there in Ujoint design and mass produced! Theres test showing that even their import axles are stronger then Others Domestic (USA made) axles.

If you are going to run selectable hubs, Please look into the Yukon hubs. About 50% stronger then Warns, Shorter caps, ALL Steel Not pot metal like warns, undercut engagement gears so they dont release like warns under heavy loads, and about same price.

If you need anything Strong and reliable in drivetrain, pm me, or better yet email me. Robert@rwkhaussupply.com

Atmos

well that settles it. yukons it will be... some day lol. Robert can I get some info on your silver xj build? I saw it in the socal fest section http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1083352 you were running a 60/14 on 35's right? it's one of my favorite cherokees out there. what all did you put into the axles and why did you choose only 35" tires?

Atmos

alright and closing questions. what brakes and rim size do you run on 60/14? drum to disc conversions using what parts? how can you make the bolt patterns match?

and finally. does anyone have an argument that will talk me out of 60/14 combo?

RWKHausSupply

my Jeep was built for King of the Hammers Stock class. One of the major limiting factors for that class was 35" tires. Knowing what I know, drivetrain is essential, more so I feel then engine, exact tire brand, what seats, etc... Especially at the hammers.

So I built the strongest I felt I could within some reason.

14B is shaved (better clearance then a JK D44 rear) 5.38's, cromoly axles (WAY OVER KILL there), spool, disk kit (GM 1/2t front calipers and 3/4T rotors), and stock 8lug hubs.

Front is a Currie RockJock Dana 60 with full Yukon: Grizzly locker, chromoly 35sp axles, driveflange kit, super joints, dedenbear king pin inner knuckles and stock ford outers, with ford 3/4T brakes w the 2 piston calipers. Stock 8lug.

Redneck hyrdo assist, durango box with mod for full throw, PSC pump, and waggy pitman arm. Currie antirock. Rock Krawler 2-5/8" ext resi Bad **** shocks and Daystar stinger (can style) bumpstops.

Oh and a stock 231 :-)

And forgot. 17" rims stock 8 lug and 35" tires

Lowrange2

Idk, your engine seemed to be rather limiting this year.

Sounded badass while it lasted tho.

Atmos

yesss. sounds like a great combo for me on 37" or 38" tires and still try to drive it to the trail (rubicon trail is 90miles away, fordyce is even closer). would you advise against that at all? how does the shaved 14B compare to a D60 with clearance? clearance doesnt look too bad at all in this pic http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost....4&postcount=19

RWKHausSupply

Yeah the POS clifford header, mixed with a hott build wasnt good for the ECU reading o2.

But now its been seasoned some and daym if its not stronger, more responsive and faster.

RWKHausSupply

Great combo yes. Priced within reason for most, Not even. If you had the front end built with all that I have in it, your at about $10,500 and rear about $2,500.

Driving it, why not. No different (in theory) then GM 3/4T pick up, axle wise.

The 14B shaved is better then any D60 (currie, dynatrac, solid, etc) but only for a short area. The bottom of a shaved 14b is flat on the bottom for about 6-7". The currie RJD60 is flat for only about 3" then radius' up fast and is better clearance from there on out.

As mentioned. My 14b rear and RJD60 front has better clearance then a JK rubi D44 front and rear, when comparing on equal diameter tires.

Atmos

yeah right no way I'm putting all that into an RJD60

I'd be at more like a $3k budget and do something like a junk yard ball joint HP60 with spartan locker, yukon 35 outters and yukon hub kit, 5.38's, spicer ujoints (temporarily), then figure out brakes and steering later. feedback on that?

93XJLI

Use the factory brakes and get a basic 1 ton steering kit for a little less than 300 bucks.

Atmos

sounds good. what about machining for flat top high steer and going OTK (something along those lines, whatever is less expensive than reid knuckles). any comments on how the axle setup I listed should hold up to 37's or 38's?