Front Hubs
#1
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Front Hubs
Here's one for you all: Trying to remove front hubs so I can change the u-joints. All 3 bolts removed, axle nut with all associated parts removed. Have so far splintered a putty knife, bent a 3" socket extension (using the steering trick), and tapped (then pounded) hub directly, using the bolts, and using a punch to direct hits to the flange to turn it (all hints from 4X4 and jeep mechanics). Finally I got a hub puller. It pulled off the front flange (where the wheels bolt on) and left the rear flange exactly where it was. Now I have a separated hub with half still on the vehicle and half on my work bench. If these hubs come apart like that, what's stopping it from flying off on the highway? More to the point, how the hell do I get that rear flange off the vehicle (without using a cutting torch) and can this hub be put back together (the bearings seem to be fine) in a way it can be used again?
Thanks, 2017
Thanks, 2017
Last edited by jeep2017; 06-09-2017 at 03:55 PM.
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Honestly, I don't know why you say "without the tool that's probably gonna be the only way to help myself."
You just proved to yourself that olden methods aren't going to work, so escalate to the better tool lol. Find someone and borrow one. If you have to, run to Harbor Freight and "rent" one.
You just proved to yourself that olden methods aren't going to work, so escalate to the better tool lol. Find someone and borrow one. If you have to, run to Harbor Freight and "rent" one.
#3
::CF Administrator::
Having a hard time visualizing this, but if the hub came out in pieces, then no, you can't re-use it, it's a one-piece sealed unit. Get a new one.
As far as getting the other part out, do you have a pic for clarification? Would really help here...
Also, I wouldn't use a cutting torch, as you take a huge risk in damaging the knuckle. Heat and penetrant and lots of BFH'ing is my suggestion. You might need an array of chisels and punches...hard to tell without seeing it
As far as getting the other part out, do you have a pic for clarification? Would really help here...
Also, I wouldn't use a cutting torch, as you take a huge risk in damaging the knuckle. Heat and penetrant and lots of BFH'ing is my suggestion. You might need an array of chisels and punches...hard to tell without seeing it
#4
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XJGUY: Are you replying to someone else? If not, please explain.
Next reply: Pounding on it didn't seem to help get it out in the first round. Why should it help now? If the front half can come out with a hub puller, what's stopping these things from coming apart while we are driving them? Just the axle nut? Also, if they do come apart just by pulling on them, why can't they be put back together? There are no pieces falling out. Everything is intact, you can just see the bearings inside (which are good). How are they sealed at the factory?
Jeep
Next reply: Pounding on it didn't seem to help get it out in the first round. Why should it help now? If the front half can come out with a hub puller, what's stopping these things from coming apart while we are driving them? Just the axle nut? Also, if they do come apart just by pulling on them, why can't they be put back together? There are no pieces falling out. Everything is intact, you can just see the bearings inside (which are good). How are they sealed at the factory?
Jeep
#5
::CF Administrator::
Post pics.
You may need to apply heat, penetrant, beat on it, repeat. Heat it again, penetrant, beat on it, repeat. The expansion/contraction with lubrication and vibration will eventually work. If it doesn't you're replacing the knuckle. Which then means new knuckle, new ball joints, new unit hub.
If you don't understand how these things work, here's a cut and paste from ehow...and yes the axle nut and 3 bolts are what hold it together
Types
There are two types of bearings: hub and wheel. Both employ the same physical characteristics of a bearing in that they house bearing spheres that are lubricated for spinning to allow the wheel to rotate.
Identification
A major difference between the two is how they are assembled. Wheel bearings can be taken apart, lubricated and reassembled to be used again. Hub bearings are prepacked at the manufacturer's factory and are sold and installed as a complete unit. These cannot be taken apart for re-lubrication, but must be replaced.
The link
http://www.ehow.com/facts_7600528_hu...l-bearing.html
If your unit bearing came apart it needs to be replaced with another. Bottom line.
Until we can see pics of your situation, there isn't a whole lot more I can tell you.
You may need to apply heat, penetrant, beat on it, repeat. Heat it again, penetrant, beat on it, repeat. The expansion/contraction with lubrication and vibration will eventually work. If it doesn't you're replacing the knuckle. Which then means new knuckle, new ball joints, new unit hub.
If you don't understand how these things work, here's a cut and paste from ehow...and yes the axle nut and 3 bolts are what hold it together
Types
There are two types of bearings: hub and wheel. Both employ the same physical characteristics of a bearing in that they house bearing spheres that are lubricated for spinning to allow the wheel to rotate.
Identification
A major difference between the two is how they are assembled. Wheel bearings can be taken apart, lubricated and reassembled to be used again. Hub bearings are prepacked at the manufacturer's factory and are sold and installed as a complete unit. These cannot be taken apart for re-lubrication, but must be replaced.
The link
http://www.ehow.com/facts_7600528_hu...l-bearing.html
If your unit bearing came apart it needs to be replaced with another. Bottom line.
Until we can see pics of your situation, there isn't a whole lot more I can tell you.
Last edited by Rogue4x4; 06-09-2017 at 07:15 PM.
#6
::CF Administrator::
BTW you never stated what Cherokee it is...XJ, ZJ, WJ, KL? Gonna make a huge difference on the answer, include the year, model, etc....more info please sir
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#9
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Who else would I be replying to, I was the second commenter in your thread? I'm pointing out that I think you should use heat to get it off even though you blatantly said you didn't wanna. Sounds like pounding on it isn't working, so you need to use another method, heat or not.
#10
::CF Administrator::
Who else would I be replying to, I was the second commenter in your thread? I'm pointing out that I think you should use heat to get it off even though you blatantly said you didn't wanna. Sounds like pounding on it isn't working, so you need to use another method, heat or not.
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Front Hubs
Thanks guys. I'm having a little trouble finding a way to address each comment individually (being new to the site) so I'll try to do it all in one reply.
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
Thanks for the link but I know the difference between the wheel bearing and the hub bearing. The hub bearings, I know, are usually replaced once they're worn but I have heard with the right tools you can rebuild them although I haven't been able to find any instructions in that regard.
So... if I can get my hands on an air chisel where do I go to work? Between the splash guard and the flange? Or is there another place it could be stuck?
Jeep.
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
Thanks for the link but I know the difference between the wheel bearing and the hub bearing. The hub bearings, I know, are usually replaced once they're worn but I have heard with the right tools you can rebuild them although I haven't been able to find any instructions in that regard.
So... if I can get my hands on an air chisel where do I go to work? Between the splash guard and the flange? Or is there another place it could be stuck?
Jeep.
#12
::CF Administrator::
Thanks guys. I'm having a little trouble finding a way to address each comment individually (being new to the site) so I'll try to do it all in one reply.
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
Thanks for the link but I know the difference between the wheel bearing and the hub bearing. The hub bearings, I know, are usually replaced once they're worn but I have heard with the right tools you can rebuild them although I haven't been able to find any instructions in that regard.
So... if I can get my hands on an air chisel where do I go to work? Between the splash guard and the flange? Or is there another place it could be stuck?
Jeep.
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
Thanks for the link but I know the difference between the wheel bearing and the hub bearing. The hub bearings, I know, are usually replaced once they're worn but I have heard with the right tools you can rebuild them although I haven't been able to find any instructions in that regard.
So... if I can get my hands on an air chisel where do I go to work? Between the splash guard and the flange? Or is there another place it could be stuck?
Jeep.
REPLACE THE UNIT HUB
If you try to move forward on this as you have described, it is not only stupid, it is NOT SAFE for you and anyone else on the road around you.
If it were that easy to do, don't you think everyone would be doing this?
Your attempt to "extend the life" of the hub is going to end up taking someone else's. YOUR HUB IS DONE, REPLACE IT.
#13
Beach Bum
Here is how to pop the hub off the steering knuckle; Thread in one of the 12-point bolts leaving 1/8" gap. Place a deep socket on bolt head, then turn steering wheel. Socket will press up against inner axle and force hub off knuckle.
The seals can be removed/replaced from some hub-bearings but if the unit separated, replace with new.
The seals can be removed/replaced from some hub-bearings but if the unit separated, replace with new.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 06-10-2017 at 05:02 AM.
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
It's a '98 XJ. The cutting torch comment was sarcasm. I'll try a little heat on the flange but I don't want to ruin the bearings inside. I think I can press the hub back together if I can get the rear flange out without destroying it. If the axle nut is the only thing holding it on anyway, it should be OK if I torque it down to the recommended 140 ft/lbs once it's pressed back into the rear flange, right?. If I don't get killed, I'll let you all know that this might be a good way to extend the life of these 'sealed' hubs because with it apart, you can re-grease the bearings inside. And it should be... after all, under hard off-roading these undercarriage parts can get water and silt in them even if they are factory sealed.
If you damage the knuckle in the process of removing it, a replacement can be had from a junk yard for (if I remember correctly, about $20).
Last edited by thatXJguy; 06-10-2017 at 10:47 AM.
#15
::CF Administrator::
Honestly, I don't know why you say "without the tool that's probably gonna be the only way to help myself."
You just proved to yourself that olden methods aren't going to work, so escalate to the better tool lol. Find someone and borrow one. If you have to, run to Harbor Freight and "rent" one.
You just proved to yourself that olden methods aren't going to work, so escalate to the better tool lol. Find someone and borrow one. If you have to, run to Harbor Freight and "rent" one.
Who else would I be replying to, I was the second commenter in your thread? I'm pointing out that I think you should use heat to get it off even though you blatantly said you didn't wanna. Sounds like pounding on it isn't working, so you need to use another method, heat or not.
Do I need to attach an unrelated meme to get a point across? I was pretty clear: heat might work. I also said that since he has already tried pounding on it, pounding on it even more as was suggested previously probably isn't going to work. If that doesn't make sense to you, then I don't know what to tell you.
You shouldn't try to 'fix' or 're-use' the bearing at this rate. From what you've described, it's the bearing is toast and needs to be replaced once you get it off.
If you damage the knuckle in the process of removing it, a replacement can be had from a junk yard for (if I remember correctly, about $20).
You shouldn't try to 'fix' or 're-use' the bearing at this rate. From what you've described, it's the bearing is toast and needs to be replaced once you get it off.
If you damage the knuckle in the process of removing it, a replacement can be had from a junk yard for (if I remember correctly, about $20).