jordan96xj

When I first started using Fluid Film on the Jeep, I read and watched everything I could to see if it was worth the trouble. I saw some good tests on websites that were conducted by regular folks (not commercial pages belonging to the company). The results were compelling enough to try it.

Then I started looking for youtube review videos, of which there were several. However, almost every single one of them was just someone saying that they "thought" it would work well, and showed them applying it only. They never followed up after a year or so.

So around that time, I was doing my leaf springs, and I decided to grind one of the front spring perch housings to bare metal, and treat it only with Fluid Film. Then check on it after a couple of salt cycles. Our region uses many thousands of tons of the nastiest calcium based salt products, and it just destroys all of the vehicles up here. It is not uncommon to see vehicles less than 5 years old, with serious rust damage to the body. Chrysler products in particular seem to fare poorly here, which is ironic, because they tend to be very popular here.

Anyway, today was my first chance to look at the spot I ground to metal after 2 full seasons of winter salting. I was already pretty pleased with the product, but I was even more confident once I saw the results of my test spot. Also, keep in mind that I just use the aerosol cans of Fluid Film, which is quite a bit thinner than the stuff that comes in the 1 gallon cans and is typically applied with a compressor and gun.

OldTires

Thanks for the review, Jordan. I was thinking of trying it next for my next underside treatment. I have been using LPS3 with mixed results.

For the last 2 weekends I have been spraying fresh water on the underside to remove the road salt from the snow storms 4 weeks ago. The transmission lines always do poorly.

investinwaffles

Great demo!

Always wondered about fluid film - would it stand up to washing the underside with one of those standard coin car-wash pressure washers? I usually spend a buck or two after major storms to get the salt off the underside of the jeep

DeadFlagBlues

Thanks for confirming what my brother (in Wisconsin) has been saying for a while now. I live in Oregon, but want to keep my '99 XJ clean.

How did you apply Fluid Film?

jordan96xj

I have been applying just with spray cans. Which can now (finally) be found at Lowes. I used to have to buy the stuff online. Using the cans gets spendy, because they are about $9 each. But I like having them, because every time I do a job on the Jeep, I like to hit all the places I have opened up. So they are convenient.

Next year, I will be switching over to the 1 gallon size with a compressor and spray gun. The main reason, and this is to answer the other question, is because the 1 gallon size is thicker and will stay on longer.

I high pressure wash all the time, and then basically re-apply all the time as well. Someone this year finally did a test on youtube, and his results showed that it was best to not blast the Fluid Film areas with high pressure, but just lightly get the salt and slush off, leaving the Fluid Film intact. Basically he had two control samples treated with Fluid Film, one that was subjected to high pressure washings, and one that was not. The one that was not high pressure washed did better, which doesn't need much explanation.

I have found that for many of the hard to reach spots like up in the rear by the gas tank and upper shock mounts, that they stay treated pretty well, because not much pressure or road spray gets up there. The areas that lose the treatment the fastest tend to be the wheel wells, axles, and steering hardware. But, they are also the easiest areas to retreat as I'm in there doing other jobs, or just whenever I think they need it.

During the saltiest part of the year here, I'll wash the Jeep a lot (high pressure). Then if the next day or two are dry and Jeep has remained clean, I will typically retreat any areas I'm worried about during that time.

Using the 1 gallon (thicker) with a compressor, you could probably treat it right before winter, and be done with it. But I like to keep mine constantly treated.

DeadFlagBlues

Thanks for the update. You offer good info about pressure washing, and I'm in agreement. Prior to your first application, how did you prep surfaces?

jordan96xj

No special treatment is really needed. I like to generally clean things off at the car wash before treating. I suppose the only real concern would be if you had caked-on/baked-on mud that was physically keeping the product from reaching the metal. But moisture/grit/sand won't stop it from covering the entire surface. The moisture thing is kind of cool, because the fluid film wants to attach to the metal much stronger than the moisture does, so it will just bubble right through the moisture so that it is on the metal. Same thing with air, when you spray it on metal you can see it sizzle because it is literally squeezing the air molecules from the metal (it wants to be touching the metal more than the oxygen does). That's pretty much how it works, by creating an oxygen free environment on the metal. So the truth is even if salt were right on top of it, it doesn't matter that much, because without the oxygen being present, it won't rust.

Of course it is not the only product that works in a similar fashion. Even motor oil or transmission fluid smeared all over a metal would keep it from rusting. The difference being that they would evaporate quicker, would not self-heal as well, and are petroleum products. Where as Fluid-Film is not. So you can get it on plastic and rubber (boots, bushings, etc.) without really doing any harm.

The only serious trade-off is that working on the underside of the vehicle becomes more messy. A little more so during the winter when I keep it -heavily- treated. But I live in the salt/rust belt, so its a small price to pay to have my Jeep stay the way it is as long as possible.

jordan96xj

Here is the video where the guy compared the high pressure wash vs. unwashed treated samples on his truck.

Gunmetal Pearl XJ

So you need to reapply this after each wash? I tried chassis saver on my undercarriage but I'm still getting some rust popping up.

jordan96xj

No, not normally.

I use the individual aerosol cans, which is a bit thinner and I also use the high pressure manual car wash a lot, so I choose to reapply throughout the winter. I tend to be under the Jeep a lot, so I respray areas whenever the mood strikes me, or whenever I think an area is looking a bit "dry". For me this primarily the front end (tie rods, drag link, axle, knuckles, etc.) and wheel wells. Areas like inside the frame, inside the doors, inside the rockers, inside rocker panels, etc. are going to remain treated just fine for the season, and in fact probably for several seasons (because the stuff doesn't really evaporate - ever).

If someone used the heavier version that comes in the 1 gallon cans (using a compressor and spray gun). They would probably be just fine for the winter. Unless you were constantly in there with a high pressure sprayer blasting it away.

DeadFlagBlues

Thanks for the great info. It's rainy here in Oregon, so I'll wait until summer when things dry out a bit to apply.

salad

Cool stuff! In Ontario we have several companies that specialize in similar. Rust Check and Krown are the two main chains that sell and apply oil-based undercoating. The big advantage is that since these products are oil, you can spray them inside body and frame cavities. On XJs that's the ONLY way you can keep the frame rails and rockers from rotting from the inside-out.

I always thought it was odd that those companies didn't expand into the American rust belt!

jordan96xj

They have made it these parts. We have a Rust Check provider here (my favorite tire shop is a dealer). They are pretty reasonable as well. Its about $200 or less the first time, and then about $70/year there after. I pointed a friend in their direction (he just bought a new Wrangler), and they did a very thorough job on it. He was really happy with it. I asked the tire shop owner if there was any reason he would prefer Rust Check over Fluid Film, and he said that they would be just about equivalent if applied routinely.

I've been trying to spread the word among friends here how big of a difference it can make, and many of them are either too skeptical or don't want to spend the money on it. Which is ironic when they are driving a $40k vehicle. (but A LOT of people use 3 year leases here, so maybe they don't care).

The various products all have some advantages/disadvantages, but they can all make a big difference in the amount of time the frame and body panels last around here. Adding 3-7 additional driveable years to a vehicle is not chicken scratch.

The real sad thing is the number of Jeepers I mention it to here in the rust belt, that are unaware of their options, and don't do anything to protect their rig at all. Some of them say don't use their vehicles in the winter to avoid rust. That helps of course, but its not just the salt. Its the warmth and humidity we get that also causes it to be severe around here.

Plus putting away the Jeep for the winter, is like putting away the rifle for hunting season. It don't make no sense, and it certainly isn't any fun.

TFitzPat87

Know this thread is a little bit older, but this is so true. I used to do landscaping, which involved snow removal in the winters. We used to apply fluid film to the back of the plows, and all over the snow blowers 1 to 3 times a year (depending on how bad the winter was). After 5 years of running all the same equipment, I kid you not... everything looked just as good as new after a nice cleaning.

And actually a while back, Salad and I were talking about this and he mentioned Rust Check and Krown. Was disappointed to find they were only in Canada. But I think it's starting to be adopted here. I've heard of a couple places, just none close to me.

I'm gonna keep trying to find a place that will do it for me, but if I can't by next winter... I'm going at it with fluid film. How did you manage to get it in the rockers, doors, and unibody?

Ralph77

I Fluid Film every year myself. If you have a good compressor invest in this:

Fluid Film "Pro" Undercoating Gun

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html

Comes with 2 hoses. One sprays out the end and in a 360 degree pattern. It is what I use to do the Uni-body. The other hose sprays out the end for getting up in tight spots. I never use that one though.

If you want to use spray cans of Fluid Film buy this:


Same thing as the Pro Gun 360 degree wand only for spray cans.