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first jeep, need some advice

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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:18 AM
  #16  
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From: colorado springs
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
No, locking differential, lock the axle to make both wheels spin regardless of grip. Locking hubs arent wheels, its the wheel hub on the axel. Your wheels just have center caps so you cant see your hubs, which dont lock
gotcha, sounds like something ill have to look into as i get more into wheeling.

that is if i can ever get it running again lol just dropped 300 bucks in miscellaneous parts that needed replacing and now found the reason for my fluid leak and s-belt snapping.....damn water pumps >.>

seems that my cousin was right when he told me "jeep, just empty every pocket", if it isnt parts that need to be replaced its things i want to upgrade
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #17  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
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Yeah definitely on my to do list, they'll make the difference between doing an obstacle or having to back out
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Ianf406
1- Stock bumper will crumple. They are really really flimsy. I don't even know if they would hold up to mounting a winch to them even if you could get a decent mount. Look for a bumper that ties in to the unibody. I would lean towards one of the small-medium companies to save some cash while still getting a quality product. (Jcroffroad.com etc... Look through vendor section)

2- You want to stay at 31" tires on a 4.5" lift or do you want to go a bit bigger? If you do go larger, that is more weight and of course lower mpg a bit. I have never purchased a tire that small and I always buy aggressive tires (MPG does not really matter to me as much) so I can't give you any real recommendations. I will say that an AT is going to your best bet depending on the type of trail that you do. Check out www.treadwright.com. They are a good tire that lasts forever at a cheap price. Many on the forum run them without an issue on their DDs. I think their AT is called "the Warden"
i checked out those warden tires and they are a great bargain! since ive been staring at my jeep for a few days now and browsing pictures on the forum i think im going to go between 33" - 35". i heard that i can get away with 33 without regearing so i might just do that for now to save cash on axels + tires since all the 35"s im finding are about double the price of the tradwrights and id need to buy new rims. now to do research on what axel/gear combo i would need for my jeep to be able to run the large tires without stressing the engine and sucking mpg :/
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:01 AM
  #19  
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If you have the D30/C8.25 combo you can run 35s with just a regear, possibly upgraded axle shafts if you break the current ones. If you have a D44 keep it and even better for 33s because it might have 4.10 gears
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
If you have the D30/C8.25 combo you can run 35s with just a regear, possibly upgraded axle shafts if you break the current ones. If you have a D44 keep it and even better for 33s because it might have 4.10 gears
thats the problem with my jeep. i dont know much as to what has been changed. from my understanding the axels are still stock for whatever came on an 89 cherokee but its an 89 lol who knows how many owners/swaps its had. i have all the records from the previous owner but thats just for the lift, adjustable track bar, clutch and roof rack so nothing too helpful. and as im finding lately.....most small parts for my jeep are impossible to buy new so i have to keep going to junkyards >.> like the stupid pipe that comes off my water pump since the one on my old water pump is too corroded and rusted into the threads that it cannot be removed and the parts store do not carry the threaded pipe only pressure fits
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:51 AM
  #21  
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Only way to find out is to get under it and check. Look up axle Identifier and you should be able to figure it out, each axle had slight differences. Like I said it is possible you already have a D44 which is really sought after.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 11:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
Only way to find out is to get under it and check. Look up axle Identifier and you should be able to figure it out, each axle had slight differences. Like I said it is possible you already have a D44 which is really sought after.
the kid i bought it off did mention something about it being set up for towing which is why he added stiffer springs in the back when he did the lift so possibly the 44. do they have identification numbers like the engines/trannys/etc.? that would make it easier to tell

if front is stock it should be the high pinion dana 30 correct?

hoping i have those 44 axels...would make me a little happier for paying what i paid -.-
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 12:00 PM
  #23  
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It should Be HP D30 in front and can be either d35, 8.25, or 44 in the back. Towing packages came with 3.73 gear instead of 3.55.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 12:17 PM
  #24  
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so ive found this http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-ti...atio-chart.htm

judging from this i would want to be geared between 4.11 - 4.56 to be able to run 32"-35" tires well
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #25  
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Yup should work, Im planning 4.88 on 35s or 5.12s on 37s
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 12:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
Yup should work, Im planning 4.88 on 35s or 5.12s on 37s
yeah i want 35's now because....awesome....but i wanna make sure i still have plenty of room for flex if needed. think id be fine with 35's on a 4.5 inch lift or should i stay around 33?

sorry for all the noob questions but youre really helpful! i thought ii did my research before buying but im finding that i am wrong xD
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #27  
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Im only going to be at 5.5 maybe 6 when I run the 37s. Flex isnt about up travel, its about the overall movement of the axle as one. when ever running larger tires you need to bumpstop appropriately to not eat up fenders or tires. Do some reading on low cog rigs. Big tire minimal lift.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
Im only going to be at 5.5 maybe 6 when I run the 37s. Flex isnt about up travel, its about the overall movement of the axle as one. when ever running larger tires you need to bumpstop appropriately to not eat up fenders or tires. Do some reading on low cog rigs. Big tire minimal lift.
Holy crap found a thread on here about how to build low cog rigs....that's amazing. People running 35s on 2 inch lifts with insane articulation. It makes no sense to me but makes me wish I knew how to weld so I could start stiffening up the frame and learning how to do some of those mods
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 04:56 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BoogeymanXJ
Holy crap found a thread on here about how to build low cog rigs....that's amazing. People running 35s on 2 inch lifts with insane articulation. It makes no sense to me but makes me wish I knew how to weld so I could start stiffening up the frame and learning how to do some of those mods
Welding is easy to learn
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PurpleToxin505
Welding is easy to learn
hmm..really? maybe ill search the forum for someone in my area that know how and would teach for $$
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