ron45

Thanks for that tip. That is info I can use. Here's some related info... I didn't choose to have locks on the wheels of the XJ. I bought it used and didn't notice them at the time.

Going to take a look at the harbor freight extractors. I like the idea of welding a nut to the wheel lock. I had guessed these were aluminum like the wheels appear to be. Now, where did I put that magnet?. First time I've ever been wrong!! they are both steel. And I believe every commercial I hear.

bad idea, I have a small stick welder but I am not a welder. Gonna try it anyway, what rod did you use and at what temp? Please.

Ron

ron45

Hey, thanks for the tiip on that bolt extractor kit.... they gave no info on the sizes in the kit just SAE or metric. I like the idea of welding a 3/4 nut on the face of the wheel lock and will do that.

bad_idea

3/32 7018 85-95 amps DC

Start in the center on the lock itself, get it hot, then work your way out to the nut.

ron45

Thanks for the specifics on the rod and temp. That will help. I was able to borrow a set of E Z out sockets that are hammered on the lock nuts. I was able to get three of them off in 15 minutes or so. The one I couldn't remove got the welding treatment and we got it off w/o too much fuss. Thanks to everyone for your patient help and suggestions. I'm mobile again.

Ron

bad_idea

I'm glad I could help. Welding a nut on FUBAR'd bolts is an old trick I picked up somewhere. In some spots it is more effective to weld a bolt to the FUBAR'd fastener. It really helps with crusty bolts as it also puts some heat into the threads to help break it loose.

ron45

After you mentioned it I remembered I did something similar with a long skylight crank whose business end came off one day. I used epoxy since it was not under any load to speak of. But it never came to mind till you mentioned it. Heaps of gracias!!

Ron