DIY Ragtop Cherokee?
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 737
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From: Black Diamond Foothills, KY.
Year: Multi
Model: Cherokee
Mark, it doesn't matter how many times I see it, I love you rig! The custom front with the round lights and tear drop turn signals, the open roof, the cage, the knife as a t-case handle - it all just makes it awesome! The best part, is that you did it all yourself. Speaks volumes for the stuff you build and sell.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 412
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From: Former Tampa Fl. now Southern Indiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15
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From: Port Jervis, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by Detour
I would'nt even consider the mod without some sort of cage in the vehical, you'll be removing 2 roof supports, not a big deal if the XJ had a frame, but it dosent.
I tied my cage up into the roof line and pillar areas prior to opening the roof........Streetbeatcustoms & slidingragtops seem to be the same product, I think mine cost around 4 bills in "canvas" not vinyl...
I could see geting one from a bone yard, but price out the replacement fabric for the model chosen before cutting. ($$$)
I tied my cage up into the roof line and pillar areas prior to opening the roof........Streetbeatcustoms & slidingragtops seem to be the same product, I think mine cost around 4 bills in "canvas" not vinyl...
I could see geting one from a bone yard, but price out the replacement fabric for the model chosen before cutting. ($$$)
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 49
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From: salem va
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
400 is not bad at all. I was just wondering what the difference between welding steel crossmembers across the car from one pillar to another would differentiate from having a cage. Isn't a rollcage, in essence, the same thing instead (a basic one) would get welded to the floor? I ask because I don't go wheelin, mostly muddin. I just wanted to do this because I wanted a cherokee that made me feel like I was in a wrangler :-)
the biggest problem is the xj's structural strength comes from the entire body much like a bubble...
because there is no "frame" under the body there is no support if the bubble were to "pop"...
so before we can pop the bubble we have to tie in strength in 3 (horizontal, vertical, and torsional)demensions not just 1...(horizontal)
with only a welded cross member you loose stregnth(increase flex) which would stress the under carrige to a point of failure, reducing the protection from crashes and off road extremes...
even while mudding...there is an extreme amount of torque/twist traveling throug the body of the jeep....
hope that help explains it better for ya
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 2
From: Black Diamond Foothills, KY.
Year: Multi
Model: Cherokee
the biggest problem is the xj's structural strength comes from the entire body much like a bubble...
because there is no "frame" under the body there is no support if the bubble were to "pop"...
so before we can pop the bubble we have to tie in strength in 3 (horizontal, vertical, and torsional)demensions not just 1...(horizontal)
with only a welded cross member you loose stregnth(increase flex) which would stress the under carrige to a point of failure, reducing the protection from crashes and off road extremes...
even while mudding...there is an extreme amount of torque/twist traveling throug the body of the jeep....
hope that help explains it better for ya
because there is no "frame" under the body there is no support if the bubble were to "pop"...
so before we can pop the bubble we have to tie in strength in 3 (horizontal, vertical, and torsional)demensions not just 1...(horizontal)
with only a welded cross member you loose stregnth(increase flex) which would stress the under carrige to a point of failure, reducing the protection from crashes and off road extremes...
even while mudding...there is an extreme amount of torque/twist traveling throug the body of the jeep....
hope that help explains it better for ya
Mine is caged to the floor, tied to the inner rockers, tied down the old console area, tied to the outter roof line, tied to the C & D pillars........I felt it be best to tie it thru-out the unibody structure as much as possible, I also reinforced the entire rear seating area side to side.........there was only 'maybe' one or 2 other XJ's with the rag top when I cut the roof 5 years ago, side effects were 'unknown'......I think I've covered the bases, esp. since I run unibody stiffeners as well.
Your wanting the open air feel is exactly why I did it as well, I was building a CJ when all of a sudden......my wife was expecting...
After a short talk, we scrapped/sold the CJ and continued to develope the XJ...
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 2
From: Black Diamond Foothills, KY.
Year: Multi
Model: Cherokee
Mark, it doesn't matter how many times I see it, I love you rig! The custom front with the round lights and tear drop turn signals, the open roof, the cage, the knife as a t-case handle - it all just makes it awesome! The best part, is that you did it all yourself. Speaks volumes for the stuff you build and sell.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 269
Likes: 1
From: Eastern NC
Year: 93
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Port Jervis, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by daski
the biggest problem is the xj's structural strength comes from the entire body much like a bubble...
because there is no "frame" under the body there is no support if the bubble were to "pop"...
so before we can pop the bubble we have to tie in strength in 3 (horizontal, vertical, and torsional)demensions not just 1...(horizontal)
with only a welded cross member you loose stregnth(increase flex) which would stress the under carrige to a point of failure, reducing the protection from crashes and off road extremes...
even while mudding...there is an extreme amount of torque/twist traveling throug the body of the jeep....
hope that help explains it better for ya
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, Virginia
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
haha thats great...so with the ragtop you cant keep the supports that are already there cause im guessing they are actually part of the roof? ive never looked under my headliner, thats about the only place i havent looked at yet on my jeep lol
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
From: Southwestern Indiana
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the suggestion. I used to own a bmw with sunroof and that car had two small channels on either side that ran to a rubber drainage tube that ran down the inside of the car and would drain out by the window seam by the door frame to the outside of the car lol. Im thinkin about doing that but im still trying to concoct a way to do it.
Two ways you could do this. My Corvette had a drain that connected to the door weather stripping. The weatherstrip would then drain it down to the bottom of the door frame to the outside. It was a nice idea until you ripped or cracked the weatherstrip.
The other is to use a flexible but firm rubber hose and run it down to and thru the tube in the doors where the door electrical wires go. Then it would drain inside the door and out the door drains like regualr rain.
Last edited by black_771; Jan 16, 2011 at 01:48 PM.




