Is Cherokee SAFE to drive long distance?
#32
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
If you're not comfortable driving your XJ on a long trip, then don't. I wouldn't hesitate to jump in mine (within a hour - to give it the once over) and drive to Alaska (or Hawaii if I had a tall enough snorkel). My last two XJ's have been two of the most reliable vehicles that I have ever owned.
#33
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Model: Cherokee
Here are some other things to check for peace of mind.
For example, you might want to replace the serpentine belt.
Service items
Things to inspect
Optional service items before they die on you
Optional upgrades
What can you add to the inspection checklist?
For example, you might want to replace the serpentine belt.
Service items
- All fluids: Oil, coolant, differential, transfer case, transmission, power steering, brakes.
- Cooling system: Radiator, cap, water pump, thermostat, all hoses, Fan clutch
- Flush cooling system
- Replace distributor, plugs, wires, coil.
- Clean Throttle body
- Battery
- Battery Cables
- New brakes/rotors.
- New front and rear wipers
- Serpentine belt
- Air filter
- O2 sensor
- Valve Cover Gasket (leak) and 2 PCV valves
- Oil filter adapter (leak)
- 4 new shocks
- Tranny mounts
- Motor mounts
- Seal rust (floorpans, doors, rockers, etc)
Things to inspect
- Replace tires?
- Replace Clockspring? (airbag light, no horn, no cruise control)
- Any burnt out bulbs?
- Check exhaust (muffler and catalytic converter)
- Cracked Exhaust Manifold?
- Any cracked vacuum lines?
- Secure rattling 4WD shifter?
- Driver’s door check pin and bracket (popping door?)
- Fix all windows (motor, bypass lock switch)?
- Flush clogged radiator core?
- Hood Release Cable?
- Replace Rear Liftgate Struts?
- Replace worn suspension (Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, Front SwayBar Bushings and End Links)
- Replace worn U-joints
- Replace worn Wheel bearings
- Squeaky steeering wheel? Lube Steering Column Boot (from inside)
Optional service items before they die on you
- Alternator
- CPS/CKP sensor
- Replace TPS (throttle position sensor)
- Replace IAC/ICV (idle control valve/motor)
- Starter
- Fuel pump and filter
- Temperature sending units (2)
Optional upgrades
- Headlight harness upgrade
- New Headlights
- Transmission cooler
- Replace center console
- Replace carpet
- Replace seats
What can you add to the inspection checklist?
- Body
- Check for rust. Anything beyond minimal rocker panel rust may be a dealbreaker for you. Floor pans, etc.
- Check the front and rear unibody points around the bumpers front and rear.
A PO might tell you its never been wrecked, but if you look closely you can find out if the unibody components are where they should be.
If these are out of whack, you might have either alignment issues, or door closing/hatch closing issues. - Inspect exhaust. Listen for holes in exhaust
- Check the tires for dry rot and low tread.
- Check the steel wheels for surface rust.
- Check saggy Rear Liftgate Struts. ($30 to replace)
- Driver’s door check pin and bracket (door popping)
- Do all doors seal properly? Aligned?
- Check front suspension (Trackbar, control arms, Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
- Check rear suspension (Are leaf springs flat? )
- Inspect hubs and u-joints for play. (if you can jack it up)
Engine - Test hood release cable
- Check battery and cables for corrosion.
- Oil leak: Check for valve cover gasket leak
- Oil leak: Check for oil filter adapter gasket leak.
- Oil leak: Check for Rear Main Seal leak.
- Check for cracked exhaust manifold.
- Check if coolant is green. Brown means no sale.
- Inspect serpentine belt.
- Check the oil level. Check for signs of coolant.
- Check freeze plugs for leaks.
- Start engine with radiator cap off, and make sure no bubbles in coolant.
- Is the engine cold? Try to start cold, to identify cold start issues that may go away once warmed up.
- After warmed up, check the condition and smell of the tranny fluid. Brown or burnt I would consider something else.
Interior - Test ALL windows, lock, switches, heater controls, etc.
(They break. Test ALL of them. Test each passenger door lock and window switch.) - Check Rattling 4WD shifter
- Test both seat's adjustment bar. Do they properly slide in their tracks?
- Test front wiper and washer
- Test rear wiper and washer
- Test horn (means broken clockspring)
- Test ALL headlights, blinkers, interior bulbs.
- Verify fuel gauge works
- Check for ant dashboard engine lights. Airbag light.
- Test radio, and test each speaker. The speaker wires crack.
- Test A/C. Cold?
- Test heater for heat (clogged heater core, bad thermostat)
- Test heater vents on ALL settings! (busted vacuum line)
- Test fan on all speeds: busted setting 1-3 indicates blower motor resistor pack
- Test NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) by starting it a few times after wiggling shifter.
Should start every time. (When NSS breaks, it won't start in park, only Neutral) - Pull the covers on the rear insides of the cargo area and look for water to collect, which indicates the rear window seals leaking
- Lift the rear seat bottom and see if the jack and jack parts are there, and their condition.
If they are rusted, I would be weary as the vehicle might have been in a flood, or there are some rust holes you might not see directly. - If you can pull the corners of the front carpet up and see if the floor has any rusting. Could be a sign of being in a flood, or carpet not drying out (leaking heater core?)
Driving - Does tranny clunk into gear? (Is this a dealbreaker?)
- Test reverse
- Make sure it idles smoothly.
- Test if 4WD works.
- Test brakes.
- Test alignment (let go of wheel and see if it drives straight)
- Test cruise control (means broken clockspring ...or broken vacuum ball under front bumper)
- Get to highway speed and test for death wobble. (30-40mph)
- Sharp turns. Any clunks or pops from the suspension?
#35
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
I've taken my 99 on two 800+ mile trips (one way, 1600 round trip) drove 18hrs only stopping for gas. If everything is running properly you shouldn't have a problem.
#37
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#39
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
You will be fine man if your Jeep runs right. (Just like any other car) I have driven my Jeep all across the country (mostly runs from Louisiana to Montana and back when in the army) The last one was about 3200 miles and I was pulling a 6000lb U-Haul trailer in the winter. I have also driven from LA to PA, drove it several hours to the gulf almost every weekend. I carry my daughter to/from daycare everyday- I have not ever broken down in an XJ just driving on the road. You will be fine!
Last edited by Ianf406; 12-16-2013 at 01:36 PM.
#42
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you drive it daily and it doesn't overheat and nothing leaks then it should be fine. Totally feel ya on the baby thing, though. Just had my first about 4 months ago and I was worried that the way my jeep rides he wouldn't be able to handle it but he loves the bumps, passes out no prob. And since you're not lifted that shouldn't even be a worry for you. Congrats and have a good trip
#43
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
A couple months back I did a NY>VA trip. I drove from Long Island to Richmond (8 hours with traffic), and then back from Richmond, wheeled it in the mountains (GWNF) near the West VA border, and up to Long Island (12 hours continuous). All with 220K on the odo. No issues at all.
#44
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre
#45
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you can tolerate the god-awful wind noise and horrible gas mileage, there's no reason not to take a Cherokee on a long trip.
Don't know about yours, but while mine may not make for the most pleasant trip, it definitely wouldn't leave me stranded.
Don't know about yours, but while mine may not make for the most pleasant trip, it definitely wouldn't leave me stranded.
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