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Buying a used XJ

Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:00 AM
  #1  
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Default Buying a used XJ

Hi folks,

Moved out to Seattle two and a half years ago to start grad school. Had a perfectly adequate 2003 Buick for getting around, but have been periodically eying Craigslist and used car sites to look over the local XJ availability.

I couldn't really afford a second car, so figured this was mainly day-dreaming. Well, I lent my car to a friend the other day so she could make it to a dance lesson, and while waiting behind a Honda Pilot at the metered onramp onto I-5, some lady in a CRV found her phone more interesting than the road and turned the Buick into an accordion. Airbags worked and my friend was fine, which is the important bit, but the pleasant outcome of this is that since insurance totaled the car, I've got a check coming in the mail sometime soon.

So that said, I'd love thoughts on how to shop for a good XJ. My initial thought is to look for a '99-'01 Cherokee Sport 4dr. I'd prefer manual, but that's not the easiest thing to find, so I'll deal with an automatic if I must. Would like it to be a decent daily driver that will handle logging roads with a bit of snow for climbing/ski mountaineering access. Ideas on what to look for, what to stay away from, and what price points/mileages are reasonable?

Thanks guys.

Andy
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:58 AM
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Year: 1996 two-door SE
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IMHO, you'll be better off with the automatic offroad. The automatic is a robust unit and will save you on clutch assembly replacements. The Cherokee is a good blend of an on- and off-road vehicle; however, the more you modify it for off-road, the less comfortable it gets on the highway.

Even if you can buy a modified Jeep cheaper than you can build one, I'd look for an unadulterated Cherokee with as few miles as possible since quality of the installation can vary widely. As bullet-proof as Cherokees are, proper maintenance by the previous owner always takes precedence over low mileage.

I put a minimal 2" lift and 31x10.50 BFG tires on my '96 with 230,000 miles, but it's not a daily driver anymore. If it were, I'd forget the lift, use 235-75s or 30x9.50s (and adjust the wheel stops), install skid plates and rocker panel rails, and stop there.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:03 AM
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Year: 1996 two-door SE
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Oh yeh, I forgot to add that you need recovery points (tow hooks) first of all.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:13 AM
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Year: 1999
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best year - 99
second best - 97, 98
slightly problematic years - 00, 01 (also some made in early '97)
better rear differential - C8.25 (bottom of pumpkin is flat)
so-so rear differential - Dana 35 (bottom of pumpkin is arc shaped)
Standard Edition (SE) comes with manual windows and door locks, and no rear defrost
valvecover gasket and oil pan gasket leaks are quite common.
'99s are usually more expensive (at least in my area)
something with about 150k miles and for around $3500-4500$ is a fair deal, provided it has a clear title and is not trashed.
if you get it stock and lift it yourself, by the end of it you'll have a detailed knowledge of the suspension.
XJ is one of the best vehicle platforms ever made. it's fairly capable stock, and it's unstoppable with the right modifications. most modifications are cheaper than the modifications for almost all other 4wd vehicles on the road.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:37 AM
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ctd/2181584774.html so this looks fairly reasonable? (pending a sound mechanical checkout)
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:58 AM
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sunroofs leak... especially after 13 years. that one is worth about 3500 i'd say. count how many times he listed vanity mirrors and wipers as options... he's trying to butter it up...
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:33 AM
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http://www.rairdon.com/used/Jeep/199...b545a48949.htm so how high above market is a dealership likely to start with something like this and what should I realistically be able to talk them down to?
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:47 AM
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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I'd start at $3000 or so and wouldn't go over $3500 for that. It looks clean but remember that's still a 13 year old vehicle. And the dealer is definitely trying to make it sound better than it is.

Another great year is the '96es It's the last year of the old body style but looks just fine IMO. The interior is a lot less modern, but it's a jeep so who cares right? '96 is the year with the most in production so they are easy to find parts for(junkyard and otherwise) plus most stuff is compatible with previous years, and also the later years(just not body stuff) A bit harder to find one with low miles, but you never know, I got mine last march and it only had 121K. Good luck!
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by andybrnr
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ctd/2181584774.html so this looks fairly reasonable? (pending a sound mechanical checkout)
seems like a high price for that many miles, i bought my 98 with 135k for about 3000 from a dealer, not a spec of rust under it or anywere else and the interoir is mint and it has all power options.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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It also looks like that one didn't have any radio just a big open spot. It might have been the photo but that's what it looks like. Good luck!
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Interesting. I felt like the bulk of the asking prices I've seen have looked high, as well. Could it be that the Seattle market is just overpriced relative to others? Also, bloody Cash for Clunkers lists the Jeep Cherokee as the 6th most common vehicle junked, so they've likely become somewhat more scarce in the past two years.

I appreciate folks eyeballing things for me; do most people find it preferable to work with an actual dealer or pick them up from individual sellers?

Thoughts on this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2182479765.html ?

Thanks,

Andy
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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Well, insurance got back to me... $6700 check in the mail as soon as I get them the title. The last link above on craigslist (pending mechanical inspection) seems like it's decent on the miles end, but of course depends on how well it was treated and maintained. I could save some $$$ up front by getting higher mileage and then pocketing the savings for either mild upgrades (tires/brush guard/winch), or should I just consider the savings a breakdown fund for when some part in a drivetrain with more than 100k on it goes? Thanks guys.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:41 PM
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So I'm scheduling a time to go look at this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2182479765.html, does anybody know a good mechanic in the Seattle area that they'd trust to do a pre-buy inspection? Does the asking price seem fair for the mileage, and is there a chance the exhaust leak described is indicative of anything other than a touch of rust on the exhaust pipe that I should be worried about?

Thanks!
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by andybrnr
So I'm scheduling a time to go look at this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2182479765.html, does anybody know a good mechanic in the Seattle area that they'd trust to do a pre-buy inspection? Does the asking price seem fair for the mileage, and is there a chance the exhaust leak described is indicative of anything other than a touch of rust on the exhaust pipe that I should be worried about?

Thanks!
That's about what I paid for mine 4 years ago an it had 70k on the clock. I got a steal tho. Something closer $4500 sounds better to me. My opinion. Others will chime in I feel sure
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 03:32 AM
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I recently bought an 01 XJ myself. Although it's a beautiful truck, they do have their issues (although you can argue that about any vehicle). 00 and 01 are apparently notorious for bad head's (which I found out the hard way). Take everyone's input seriously and still do your own research. Cherokee's are great if you take proper care. What I found out, and is the moral of the story, do your best to make sure the previous owner did their part to take care of it...
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