Best year XJ to get?
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Best year XJ to get?
Don't know if this has been asked, and I don't have the time to look at the moment as I'm leaving for work in a few minutes. Long story short, my current jeep has a CPS problem that refuses to get resolved. I'm fortunately in the position to buy another car and just sell my current one as is. What is the best year XJ to get? I really don't want a 96 again, or anything newer, unless it really is better. Also, are there any special things to look for in a particular year that is good/bad? I'm somewhat familiar with XJs, but you guys are far ahead of me.
#3
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i have a 99, and yes, they are the best for the newer years, but i would take ten 1990's before another 99.
just get one without abs, then change out the d30 for a newer large joint solid shaft hp d30 axle.
the 97+ xj's have known door and tailgate issues as well as many other irritable problems.
just get one without abs, then change out the d30 for a newer large joint solid shaft hp d30 axle.
the 97+ xj's have known door and tailgate issues as well as many other irritable problems.
#6
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Quoting myself here. I've always dreamed of putting a Buick 3800 (4th gen Camaro/Firebird had rwd versions of this engine that are easy to find) into an 84-86 XJ.
Guys whose only advice to you is "buy a 99" aren't really helping you much. Some of them just blindly regurgitate that because they read it somewhere when researching Jeeps, and they don't even know why. There are some reasons that 99 is a particularly favored year, but it might be that NONE of them matter to YOU. I mean, what do you want to do with your Cherokee? Is it just going to be a daily driver? Will you wheel it? If so, how often? How hard? What kind (mud, sand, rocks)? Are there any particular modifications/upgrades you'd want to do to it?
I think some people's obsession with 99 is a bit disrespectful to how great all the other XJ's are. Even the 00 and 01 XJ's are worthy of respect that is often denied to them by many. You really can't lose. Many minor and some major changes were made between 84 and 01. I'm sure you can find a list of all the changes out there somewhere; I know I found that info myself once upon a time.
Aside from the normal stuff to look out for with ANY used car, be aware that 84-86 XJ's had GM engines that pale in comparison to the 4.0 of 87-01 (I'm just ignoring the 4 cyl engines that some XJ's had). The pre-91 Renix systems are a bit ... "special" and simply something to be aware of and ready to work with if you're looking at one. 00-01 4.0's have a head with a casting flaw that may or may not crack between cyl 3 and 4. Many of them never crack (or at least haven't after hundreds of thousands of miles), but many do. It's something to watch-out for but not something that should keep you away completely, and you should be aware that identical heads without the casting flaw are out there should you have a crack. The manual trannies are solid as are the autos. The two possible transfer cases are both great. There are a variety of rear ends each with their own advantages and disadvantages, and unless you're planning on doing lots of wheeling, even the weakest of the bunch (D35) will be just peachy. The floor pans are easily the most susceptible to rust on all years. Because of the limited space for a radiator, XJ's are just barely able to maintain their operating temperature, so you have very little room to slack on maintaining the cooling system; luckily the cooling system is a reliable as any other part of the 4.0, so it's not likely to require much work (and any work will be relatively cheap). The stock exhaust manifold cracks easily which can impact the performance and efficiency of your engine negatively. APN makes a replacement header that is a very affordable replacement should you ever need/want one (there are other header options out there as well).
It is my opinion that if you get an XJ with a 4.0 from 91-99, you have virtually nothing but cheap regular maintenance to worry about. If you get an 00 or 01, you just have to make sure to never overheat it (as if you'd ever be OK with overheating any engine), and to pay closer attention to the oil and coolant "health."
I think some people's obsession with 99 is a bit disrespectful to how great all the other XJ's are. Even the 00 and 01 XJ's are worthy of respect that is often denied to them by many. You really can't lose. Many minor and some major changes were made between 84 and 01. I'm sure you can find a list of all the changes out there somewhere; I know I found that info myself once upon a time.
Aside from the normal stuff to look out for with ANY used car, be aware that 84-86 XJ's had GM engines that pale in comparison to the 4.0 of 87-01 (I'm just ignoring the 4 cyl engines that some XJ's had). The pre-91 Renix systems are a bit ... "special" and simply something to be aware of and ready to work with if you're looking at one. 00-01 4.0's have a head with a casting flaw that may or may not crack between cyl 3 and 4. Many of them never crack (or at least haven't after hundreds of thousands of miles), but many do. It's something to watch-out for but not something that should keep you away completely, and you should be aware that identical heads without the casting flaw are out there should you have a crack. The manual trannies are solid as are the autos. The two possible transfer cases are both great. There are a variety of rear ends each with their own advantages and disadvantages, and unless you're planning on doing lots of wheeling, even the weakest of the bunch (D35) will be just peachy. The floor pans are easily the most susceptible to rust on all years. Because of the limited space for a radiator, XJ's are just barely able to maintain their operating temperature, so you have very little room to slack on maintaining the cooling system; luckily the cooling system is a reliable as any other part of the 4.0, so it's not likely to require much work (and any work will be relatively cheap). The stock exhaust manifold cracks easily which can impact the performance and efficiency of your engine negatively. APN makes a replacement header that is a very affordable replacement should you ever need/want one (there are other header options out there as well).
It is my opinion that if you get an XJ with a 4.0 from 91-99, you have virtually nothing but cheap regular maintenance to worry about. If you get an 00 or 01, you just have to make sure to never overheat it (as if you'd ever be OK with overheating any engine), and to pay closer attention to the oil and coolant "health."
#7
Recently purchased a 97 Cherokee Sport. 4.0 liter 6 cylinder automatic. Low miles (126K) yankee jeep with usual rust for northern vehicles.
Problem: Runs what I consider "warm". Ran constent 210+ until I installed a 185 thermostat and now it runs approximately 205. Water pump started leaking. Replaced that. Still runs about 205, sometimes 210 under a strain. Flushed it when I had the water pump down and coolant is still nasty (very dark). Gonna flush it again and try a 165 thermostat.
Do they make a heavy duty radiator for the 4.0L? (Old school: if a regular radiator was a "2 core" then heavy duty was a "3 (or 4) core".).
I've heard the 4.0L will run 200K, 300K miles at 210 degrees, but that really sounds kinda not good.
I've got Jeep Fever and will probably have one from here on out, but I really would like to solve the warm problem.
I'd like some wisdom other than "Don't worry about it."
Any other suggestions?
Problem: Runs what I consider "warm". Ran constent 210+ until I installed a 185 thermostat and now it runs approximately 205. Water pump started leaking. Replaced that. Still runs about 205, sometimes 210 under a strain. Flushed it when I had the water pump down and coolant is still nasty (very dark). Gonna flush it again and try a 165 thermostat.
Do they make a heavy duty radiator for the 4.0L? (Old school: if a regular radiator was a "2 core" then heavy duty was a "3 (or 4) core".).
I've heard the 4.0L will run 200K, 300K miles at 210 degrees, but that really sounds kinda not good.
I've got Jeep Fever and will probably have one from here on out, but I really would like to solve the warm problem.
I'd like some wisdom other than "Don't worry about it."
Any other suggestions?
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#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
210 is normal and desirable for a running temp. Approx 210 is where it should be, so stop trying to force it down.
Using a lower t-stat won't lower your running temps anyway; it just slows down warm-up which can be bad for the engine. 195 is the correct thermostat. A thermostat merely determines the minimum running temp of an engine. The fan+rad+water pump determines the maximum running temp of an engine.
Using a lower t-stat won't lower your running temps anyway; it just slows down warm-up which can be bad for the engine. 195 is the correct thermostat. A thermostat merely determines the minimum running temp of an engine. The fan+rad+water pump determines the maximum running temp of an engine.
#9
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Runs what I consider "warm". Ran constent 210+ until I installed a 185 thermostat and now it runs approximately 205. Water pump started leaking. Replaced that. Still runs about 205, sometimes 210 under a strain. Flushed it when I had the water pump down and coolant is still nasty (very dark). Gonna flush it again and try a 165 thermostat.
210 degrees is perfectly normal for a 4.0L and it will run fine at this temp. Allot of "modern" vehicles with closed cooling systems run even hotter than this (225-230 degrees isn't that uncommon on newer vehicles).
Last edited by dmill89; 06-06-2015 at 09:30 PM.
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Best of the best later models a 99 or at the least a 97-99 at least you get OBPII and a 29 spline Chy 8.25 with them and a better intake design on the 99. Avoid the D35 or plan on a swap id you get one easy to do.
#11
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From Amsoil website
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C).
And I have 2 98's, a 99 and an 01 and they are all great. Had an 88 about a decade ago and I loved it also
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C).
And I have 2 98's, a 99 and an 01 and they are all great. Had an 88 about a decade ago and I loved it also
#12
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like the interior on the pre 96 cherokees. Something about the simple dan look just feels like a true jeep to me. As stated above all years are respectable but like any vehicle as it evolved over the years some things improved and others not so much.
#13
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l i6
As a 01 owner I would recommend them yes the first half had the bad 0331 heads that can crack but you have to push your engine pretty hard to crack and if you look hard enough you can find them without the 0331 heads
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