flexin91xj

I've got a '91 XJ(2-door) with an AX-15, 231 t-case and 8.8 rear axle. Up until recent I also had a HP dana 30 front axle, but the driver's side axle tube bent on me.(don't ask me how LOL )
So instead of wasting my money and time on rebuilding another dana 30, I thought it was about time to put something much stronger underneath and go with a high pinion dana 44 out of a '79 Ford F-150. This is not the ideal HP dana 44 to go with for any Jeep swap due to it's cast in radius arm wedges. But I found a housing on craigslist for $50 bucks. This was perfect for me because I'm using larger/stronger 3.0"x.50" axle tubes and wanted a custom WMS width of 64 inches.

I found a write up on the web for a hybrid 30/44 front axle build (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...HybridAxle.htm) that greatly helped me out, but I thought it was a little dated and lacking in some details. So bare with me as I take you through my build (with tips, tricks, part numbers, prices and most important LOTS OF DETAILED PICS) of a custom front high pinion dana 44 with new and used parts that will bolt into the front of an XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ.

flexin91xj

Here's the '79 Ford F-150 HP dana 44 front axle I started with. As you can see, it has the non-popular wedges that can not be removed as they are cast into the axle tubes.
The 1971-1977 Ford front dana 44 coil mounting brackets are 4 separate cast pieces(radius arm mounting wedges) welded at the top and bottom which can be cut off. 1978-1979 front dana 44 axles were the only years with the cast in wedges.
I found this and much more info on the Ford dana 44 front axle at http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm

flexin91xj

In order to use this axle under my Jeep Cherokee, the stock axle tubes had to be completely removed and replaced with new tubes. The stock axle tubes were 2.75"x.25" but some '78-'79 Ford dana 44 front axles came with 2.75"x.375" axle tubes. I decided to go with much stronger 3"x.5" tubes for the added strength.
Here's the housing with the new stronger tubes pressed in.
You can save a lot of money by going with the 1971-1977 F-150, 1977-1979 F-150 Super Cab or 1978-1979 F-250 front HP dana 44 as these have removable radius arm wedges or leaf spring perches and you don't have to mess with installing new axle tubes. You can also go with an older Ford front dana 44 axle, but these are low pinion axles. There's also a couple other front driver's side drop dana 44's that can be found in some full-size Jeeps and Dodge vehicles, but they're also low pinion axles. You can go with whatever your budget allows. You can use any of the axles I mentioned with this build. I just prefer the strength and drive-line angles of a front high pinion axle as opposed to a low pinion.

flexin91xj

Instead of going with stock dana 44 Inner C's, I decided to go with Crane's Inner C's. These are MUCH stronger than the stock Inner C's because they are made from 8620 Chromoly Steel and have 6" of additional welding surface.

Klondike

Subscribed!! Why do you need this much strength? I'm not trying to start a debate, I'm just curious. Looks really good so far.

flexin91xj

It's my daily driver and trail rig and don't wanna worry about bending or breaking anything when I go to 35's with a Detroit Locker up front. There's a lot of serious trails here in Colorado and I wanna hang with the big boys that have one tons and also not have to worry about driving to and from work the next day.
I'll have a lot more pics, part numbers and info posted tomorrow.

PingPong

Why didnt you use 60 outers.... ARB and OX both make a 35 spline D44 locker. If you use d60/d61/d50 outers you can have a d60 strength with 2 more inches of ground clearance.


I do like that you are thinking out of the box though

flexin91xj

I don't know much about the dana 60 to be honest and I personally think one tons under a frame-less XJ is overkill, although super cool. I'm not gonna ever go bigger than 35's on my Cherokee either. This is my daily driver that I pick up and take my son to school everyday and that I've gotta take to and from work as well.
I just know more about the dana 44 and think all XJs/MJs/ZJs/TJs should have come with a non unit bearing dana 44 under the front of them. But that's just my 2 cents though. Plus the dana 60 stuff would have defiantly thrown me way over budget. Used front HP dana 60 axles are crazy expensive!

93XJLI

this totally. if i was going through the trouble of retubing i'd use 60 outers and wouldn't even think about anything else. that aside, very nice work so far.

flexin91xj

I will be using Crane's Dana 44 Interlocking Outer Knuckle Kit so I can convert to cross-over steering with the tie-rod over the knuckles and will also be using heim joints instead of TRE's. The passenger(right) side knuckle has a pocketed key-way so the steering arm interlocks with knuckle along with 5/8" Grade 8 studs.
I thought about doing a high-steer setup, but I didn't want to have to worry about a custom track bar and mount. Im trying to keep everything to "off the shelf" parts.

flexin91xj

I will also be using Synergy HD Ball Joints.(PPM-4121-01) Heard nothing but great things about these ball joints. Nothing against the stock Spicer units(706116X), but I like the
Synergy ball joints because of being able to easily grease both upper and lower joints and they have replaceable boots.(PPM-8009-12-02) They're a little bit more expensive than Spicer, but well make up for it in strength and serviceability.

PingPong

I did a similar build on my axles.. I just used Reid knuckles and SOlid Hi-steer arms. I definately think that doing a true Hi-steer is where it is at. Plently of companies sell Raised TB mounts. I put my tierods on the knuckles and flipped it over because I didnt have rom to mount my hydro assist with the tierod on the high steer arms, but if I wast doing assist I would mount mine all the way up.

hankthetank

newb question...why 64"? thats over 4" wider than the 8.8...and why not wagoneer width? i see you said 'custom width' but wouldn't it be easier to source the narrower shafts?

flexin91xj

Yes the front axle will be about 4.5-5 inches wider than the stock 8.8. My 8.8 is in the process of getting Yukon's Ultimate 8.8 axle kit which will net me close to 2 more inches of width. Then I will be using wheel adapter/spacers to match the 5 x 5.5 wheel bolt pattern that I'm using up front on the dana 44. That will give me another 2+ inches of width.
It would also be easier to go with wagoneer axle shafts but the axle is only 62 inches. I believe and have been told that 64 inches of axle width is optimal for an XJ. That's just my 2 pennies though. I know I could use wheel spacers with the wagoneer axle width, but I'm already gonna be using them in the rear and don't want them on all four corners.

flexin91xj

I scored these used '82 Ford F-150, 5 x 5.5" front disk brake hubs on eBay for $90 bucks plus shipping. They came sand blasted and in A+ quality. They pretty much looked brand new. I went with used hubs because all the local auto parts stores around here wanted $100 bucks a pop for them.
I just finished installing new wheel bearing races in them and painted them. Will have finished pics of them very soon.