Stitch Welding
Are you suppose to stitch weld that. Seams like you might want to full weld something like that. I mean the point is to stiffen it right. I just think a real weld would do a much better job and you wouldn't have to worry about rust.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I stitched mine because I didn't want to heat the sheet metal too much and I prefer a stitch because if it pulls it stops with the weld whereas a full weld pulls completely off.
That's why you do short alternating welds to keep the heat down. About 1"-4" long depending on what your welding and how thick it is. And if you have good tack welds it really shouldn't move all that much i "if you full weld it in one pass"
I would think that a stitch weld would cause more stress at the ends of the welds, which would actually help it crack. Then I guess it also depends on how long the welds are and how much space there is in between them.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Browns Valley/Grass Valley, CA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 98 4.0 swap
stitch welding is the proper way to do any for of stiffening because it allows for flex, welds are very hard so if you full weld and then go wheel the **** out of it theres a good chance your gonna tear your unibody a new one.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 770
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From: Columbia, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
i dont agree with this, many many people have done this before and no problems with it, everyone says it helps
To me it just seems like flex would cause stress on the ends of the stitch welds. Having it completely welded would spread the stress out.
I guess the real question from here would be, has anyone experienced cracking at the welds of their unibody reinforcements?
I guess the real question from here would be, has anyone experienced cracking at the welds of their unibody reinforcements?
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 737
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From: Black Diamond Foothills, KY.
Year: Multi
Model: Cherokee
To answer the orig. question, use automotive seam sealer, it's availabe in a tube or you can get it in brush form as well, use acid brush to apply.
I would'nt think the item be fully welded, not required and you stand a better chance of undercutting the material/unibody in the process.
I would'nt think the item be fully welded, not required and you stand a better chance of undercutting the material/unibody in the process.
To answer the orig. question, use automotive seam sealer, it's availabe in a tube or you can get it in brush form as well, use acid brush to apply.
I would'nt think the item be fully welded, not required and you stand a better chance of undercutting the material/unibody in the process.
I would'nt think the item be fully welded, not required and you stand a better chance of undercutting the material/unibody in the process.
isnt there weld through primer? Thus you can remove all the undercoating/paint on the unibody, primer up the rails, then weld through the primer, thus the metal you preped behind the stiffeners wont rust.


