posjeepxj

i used to be a stero guy and doors are ment for water to go in the top and come out weep holes in the bottom. if you stop this process your door will rust very quickly.

just my .02 on subject

Troth

poserjeepxj,

This has nothing to do with deep water crossings. i may relicate the speakers at some point but that has nothing to do with this thread, your 2 cents might as well be in canadian because it made no sense here

Iant333

The only hesitation I have to doing it myself is it would feel unsafe. I prefer the interior being padded in case i hit something.

posjeepxj

has nothing to do with deep water crossings. rain water comes in the seal at bottom of window top of door. it runs down interior of door and out weep holes. Alot of people when doing door mods like fiberglass door panels or alum skins plug up these holes. some people make the mistake of sound deadening over them. Do not put anything that will hold moisture, and if you can put back up the factory vapor barrier(the plastic).

sorry for tryin to help

huntingman2706217

but if u did and stuck a butt load of insulation in there like YOU WERE talking about then his statment is actually pretty important... and he brings another view in the picture to make sure you dont do something stupid... you should be thanking him!

posjeepxj

thanks hunting man

I have also seen 4gal of water trapped in someones door. so unless you like the sound of the ocean you gota be careful with what you do to a door.

I could have done a better job explaining in the first post that i was talking about rain water

jonnyb78

u could use dynamat for sound deadening and to cut down on the rattles. its not insulation but its alright, thats what u got heat 4. i hope u update this thread often. i really like the sound of this project

t-amos

i have a leak somewhere on the driver side(cant find our where) so i decided to cut a chunk of carpet uder the stearing column and soaked up about half a galon of water. i was a little pissed off, but now i plan on making drain holes and rhinolining the whole interior. im deffinatly going to watch this thread to see how yours turns out. good luck

Troth

im not going to do anything with the doors, the rear cargo area is the biggest project. then ill remove the trim by that runs along the ground and I know that looks like crap so ill make some little fott skid plates that run that distance and other than that there isnt much trim im concerned about. I am wondering about the spots where the top of the rear seat attaches when it flips up.

sorry posjeepxj
apparently I was a a$$hole last nite, I had a weird combination of liquor at a party (whiskey,vodka,tequila,rum,absenth,and beers) so one or two of those did it to me,

so ya. im not doing anything with my doors at all. but that is good to know about the weep holes cuz I never knew that. seems like a weird system that would rust out the inside of the door. why didnt they just seal them?

rustface

Good project topic...
Last summer I took all the carpet out of my 96. Fixed a dozen large rust holes. Left it bare after that.
In the rear, took out those two plastic side trims, and all the "insulation.
Had a lot of rot in the floor by the rear hatch, and in the quarters of course.
Still working on that. It's still pretty drafty back there with some holes yet to be patched. Did a partial cut-n-fold which is not done yet (too cold to work on at the moment in Maine).
Plus there's ongoing rust around hatch seals in the floor, because I think there's a lot of leaks in the gaskets or in the rear window itself, which I replaced 2 years ago with Lexan (the original glass was broken by vandals).
Was thinking of using wood to re-create those side "nook" panel trim pieces, and also make a wood floor.
And eventually to build a wood console between the front seats, but that's another chapter.
Would love to see other rear cargo areas that have been re-defined, or links to same...

Troth

rust face: have you seen the pix on here of that guy who took out his rear seats, bottom and top and made a wood floor with a flip up compartmentwhere the seats were? I wouldnt get rid of my rear seats but it looked cool

posjeepxj

Last post about the door weeps. promise

No door will ever be completeley sealed if it has a window that moves up and down it will always let water in. This applies to every vechile not just jeeps. so every door will have some for of weep system at the bottom. Do not remove plastic and not but it back on as it is part of this system also, so if you have to take it off put it back.


On to floor drains. i saw Kid took some pvc parts iand drilled a hole in his floor and secured them. the cool part is that they make a compression gasket out of rubber with a wing nut on top that fits right in. so it water tight when you want it to be and a drain when you dont. Never seen this before and just thought it was a good idea

FlyingLow

Many many coats of rubberized undercoating.

offroadnut36

I say you weld the holes shut. Weld pates along the inside of the door so it is completely seealed off(except the window). Drill and tap a 3/4" hole down at the outside corner. Buy a 3/4" faucet thing. Buy a 3/4" plug. Bedline the entire inside of the door, 3 coats should do. put the 3/4" plug in. Just wait for the rain to fill it up, and pull the plug, install faucet. WALLAAH!! YOU HAVE A SELF CONTAINED WATER JUG!!

huntingman2706217

and then you can hire flubber to fly your jeep around...