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My New Bumper

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:07 AM
  #16  
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No stress here at all, guess you missed the part where I said
No offense
.
The pictures do not make it abundantly clear how the bumper mounts. The OP is the person to answer the question since he built and installed the bumper.

ocg03,
So how does it mount?
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:16 AM
  #17  
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You can write no offence in front of an atomic bomb and still would be offending, I think it was excessive and disrespectful.
Watch the first picture closely, you will see the rear edge of the bracket.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #18  
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Let the OP answer the question please, it was directed at him.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:25 AM
  #19  
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I would like to see the mounting brackets as well, as that is truly the most important part of a real off road bumper. IMO, the three holes are not near enough to be able to rely on the bumper for an extraction. I agree with the fact that the TIG welding looks nice, but I'm not real keen on the open spaces in the bumper, but that's just me. The material looks a little on the thin side as well, but again, this is my opinion...
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:25 PM
  #20  
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I can post up another picture tomorrow, the Jeep is in the back of my office drying right now. I just painted the bumpers...

The bumper mounts to the 3 holes on the side in the stock position, however there is a plate that also goes across the front as well. Each side bolts on through 2 more holes located in the center of the front (4 additional bolts).

So each side has 5 bolts total. However I do kind of agree this may not be enough structurally, so we planned for it. The fabricator actually made the brackets too wide by 3/16 on each side so we can add a C-Rok plate on the driver's side and fab up a plate on the passenger side.

The brackets will then be welded to the plates and that should provide enough structural integrity.

I've had a tough time locating a C-Rok steering box brace, so I am using washers to take up the 3/16 gap.

Make sense?

Here is a picture with my sorry excuse for arrows explaining what I a talking about...


Last edited by ocg03; Aug 18, 2009 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:36 PM
  #21  
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I'd recommend skipping the C-Rock brace and simply add some 3/16" plate beteween the existing bracket and frame rail. You can weld it at the lap joint and add a couple of ressets per side as well. That should beef it up enough to add a couple of tow points.

Nicely done, BTW.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #22  
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x2 on what frankyz said, looks good but need more functionality than looks. Like added tow points would be nice. You can save your self money and not have to get the c-rok braces. I bought a plate of 3/16 steel for 40 bucks and cut out an inner steering box brace when i built my bumper. Just use a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape to fit along the the inner frame. Use that as a template to cut out on the steel. Saves a ton of cash and isn't hard to do at all when your already fabing a bumper. As for extending back the frame mounts, once again cardboard is your best friend when it comes to mocking up a design. U could either cut off your orgonal mounts and remake them. Or addon where yours ends. It really isn't that much more extra work. A few hours of time at most but it will last a hell of a lot longer and you'll never have to go back to beef it up or fix any stress cracks in your frame. That is of course unless you do a redesign to add a winch. Just my 2 cents, it really is good looking man, just saying you could make it a little more functional.
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 02:01 AM
  #23  
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A nod is as good as a wink... to a blind horse.
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
A nod is as good as a wink... to a blind horse.
what? we are still talking about a bumper, right?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #25  
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nice looking bumper very clean
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #26  
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i used the stock 3 mounting bolts with my bar on the front and they held fine i put grade 8 bolts in there that were longer the only problem was i used the factory bumper mounts and the 5/8 inch thick bolts i used ripped through the thin metal, this was done when pulling out a 6 inch base tree bout ten foot tall. no biggy hooked to my back bumper and got it out. jerking motion was what got me. chains suck
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 03:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
A nod is as good as a wink... to a blind horse.
your point being what? the OP answered the question. over. done.
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
A nod is as good as a wink... to a blind horse.
I'm pretty sure that once the bumper is tied into some frame plating it will be as tough as any other bumper.

FYI... I never go rock crawling buddy, that is pretty obvious in the design. I'm building this to pre run the desert out here in Southern California. When you find a pre runner with a heavy a$$ winch on the front let me know.

I learned that the throttle pedal is on the right, so I rarely get stuck on our terrain out here.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ocg03
I'm pretty sure that once the bumper is tied into some frame plating it will be as tough as any other bumper.

FYI... I never go rock crawling buddy, that is pretty obvious in the design. I'm building this to pre run the desert out here in Southern California. When you find a pre runner with a heavy a$$ winch on the front let me know.

I learned that the throttle pedal is on the right, so I rarely get stuck on our terrain out here.
Yes that's what i said too.
So are you going to give me the dimensions or not?
I want to draw it with pro/eng...
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:16 AM
  #30  
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that is a sweet sweet bumper...I am so jealous of you. Please post dimensions so I can copy it some day!
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