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Muffler Heat Shield

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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #1  
peep's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Default Muffler Heat Shield

With the fresh floors in the Peep, when I reinstalled my exhaust system I tried to tuck all up as high as possible for max clearance under. Monitoring things in the maiden voyage and therafter I found the floor above the muffler could get hot, not hot to instant burn but too hot to hold your hand upon it. Hence a need for a heat shield. I had a strip of 16ga stainless available, one could also use regular carbon steel or even aluminium. If using carbon steel give it a coat of heat paint or stove paint to protect your investment. I sized the shield 1" longer than the muffler, you don't really need too much longer than that. Width about 4" wider than your muffler, lets the sides fold around. I used a metal brake to bend sides about 40 deg. Two holes each end for some 1/4 bolts, the nuts act as standoffs holding the shield up and gapped from the surface of the muffler. Couple holes siamesed to create a slot, used stainless plumbing hose clamps strung together to suit the muffler diameter. Pass the clamps thru the slots on each end of the shield, loop around the muffler and bring together underneath. Tighten the clamps and done deal. The floor that was hot is now ambient temperature, cold to touch. No more heat problem. Check the clamps periodically during regular maintenance shedule of your rig.
Attached Thumbnails Muffler Heat Shield-img_2008.jpg   Muffler Heat Shield-img_2010.jpg   Muffler Heat Shield-img_2077.jpg  
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 06:39 AM
  #2  
ChileRedBateman's Avatar
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From: Concord, NH
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I like it, only thing I would "add" if you find it still gets hot would be to drill 1/2" holes along the edge of the bent down parts... they would act as cooling fins...
like this but just bottom half of bent down area, so like 2 rows of holes
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 06:42 AM
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Agent_Oragnge's Avatar
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From: Finger Lakes Region NY
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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looks great. is it effective?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #4  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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Would be a nice upgrade, thanks.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #5  
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That looks absolutely great....I just have one question...If it is laying on the muffler, wont it act like a heat sinc? It would just get as hot as the muffler...Isn't that why the heat shields are above it, usually attached to the floor?
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 04:36 AM
  #6  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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It is actuall Very effective. There are two 1/4-20unc stainless bolts thru each end of the shield. These hold the shield about 1/2" up from direct contact with the muffler and air can pass thru. You may be able to see the bolts in a couple of the pics. After several 2 hour runs the floor abover was always vey hot before, always dead cool now. Factory shields when present are fastened to the floor. As I had recently replaced the floor, I hadn't allowed for a new shield. I didn't want to pull the exhaust system (again) to install the the floor type so I put it onto the muffler direct. I used stainless for convenience (I had a piece), longevity, and I can transfer to a new muffler in the future. No problems at the cat conv. as it has an outer shield as part of it;s normal construction.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:59 PM
  #7  
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From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
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Bent my hanger and put the exhaust back together (aftermarket muffler) while drunk a long while back. After highway driving I could smell something... one day on the way up to berryessa/knoxville road for some wheeling my buddy in the back seat said something was burning. Pulled over and didn't see anything. Started going again and next thing I know my carpets on fire. Long story short we used all the water we brought on the trip and saved the beer cause the extinguisher didn't work..... muffler was touching the floor and burned a hole in the floor pan. I was thinking about just welding 1/4 inch plate about a foot wide all the way front to back where the exhaust runs.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #8  
mrfajita's Avatar
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by Slick761
Bent my hanger and put the exhaust back together (aftermarket muffler) while drunk a long while back. After highway driving I could smell something... one day on the way up to berryessa/knoxville road for some wheeling my buddy in the back seat said something was burning. Pulled over and didn't see anything. Started going again and next thing I know my carpets on fire. Long story short we used all the water we brought on the trip and saved the beer cause the extinguisher didn't work..... muffler was touching the floor and burned a hole in the floor pan. I was thinking about just welding 1/4 inch plate about a foot wide all the way front to back where the exhaust runs.
haha glad your priorities are in order
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #9  
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From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
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Ya... we were very dehydrated by the end of that weekend.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #10  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Year: 1987
Engine: Check
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Any rattling?
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #11  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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I still don't have the back carpet or rear seat in. I can hear everything from back there. The only thing not making noise is the shield. No rattle and floor continues cool.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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From: Dallas, GA 30157
Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Nice idea, the only thing I think I would do differently is have the bolts come in from the other direction, so that the head of the bolts would be against the muffler. That way it would be less likely to rub a hole in the muffler.
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