Homebrew Jeep Mods
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 2
From: Warrenton MO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L I6
i wired my trailer light harness for like $15 and made it short then its hidden and when i need it i bought a 5 ft extension with the plugs aleady on it. it was easy all the wires are in the left hand cubby inside behind the plastic trim.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 773
Likes: 1
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by ol'DixieJeep
the PO of my XJ did the lift and it came with the TC drop kit... it was 2 pieces of square tubing lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by James P
LOL. Some peoples kids. It amazes me what some people will do.. I've used the square tubing but never on end. LOL.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 667
Likes: 1
From: shelley, idaho
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242CID I-6
just remember the studs need to come out i wound just get one from rough country new bolts the 1 inch spacers and washers. also check ebay people sell them all the time cheap
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 402
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte/Raleigh, NC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 MPI
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 667
Likes: 1
From: shelley, idaho
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242CID I-6
Originally Posted by anthony008
you think i will need it if i only have 3in lift with 2 degree shims?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
From: Crystal Lake, IL
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by Crusty Beakers
I don't know if this has been done a thousand times before, but it came out pretty nicely. So I thought I would share it.
I found Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH00100-GR-1-MUGGER-Folding/dp/B000Q887MY/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I33A4TB4U0JKCT&colid =3TZ9HRHEEEI9P on Amazon.
And I installed them like this:
There are six screw holes inside, but you only use four. I chose the four closest to the outside. I removed one of the door panels to make sure I wouldn't drill into anything important. I found that if you mount it in the spot I did, you won't harm anything.
So I didn't have to remove the second door panel. It literally took 5 minutes to install. See this picture for locating dimensions.
Of course I can't guarantee the inside of your your panels will be the same as mine. If anyone wants to do this, be sure of what you are doing. On mine, a '98 Classic, The wiring for the windows runs right down between where I drilled. Plenty of space. And the screws are only going into the plastic door panel and sound insulation, not into the metal door frame.
I found Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH00100-GR-1-MUGGER-Folding/dp/B000Q887MY/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I33A4TB4U0JKCT&colid =3TZ9HRHEEEI9P on Amazon.
And I installed them like this:
There are six screw holes inside, but you only use four. I chose the four closest to the outside. I removed one of the door panels to make sure I wouldn't drill into anything important. I found that if you mount it in the spot I did, you won't harm anything.
So I didn't have to remove the second door panel. It literally took 5 minutes to install. See this picture for locating dimensions.
Of course I can't guarantee the inside of your your panels will be the same as mine. If anyone wants to do this, be sure of what you are doing. On mine, a '98 Classic, The wiring for the windows runs right down between where I drilled. Plenty of space. And the screws are only going into the plastic door panel and sound insulation, not into the metal door frame.