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Custom Sway Bar Disconnects.

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Old 04-10-2013, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HudsonN

Trying to be honest with my profits as i'm not trying to rip anyone off here, just trying to make a good product that people will appreciate.
I hear ya there Im working on tail light guards and wanna do the same thing as you man. Best of luck to you!
Old 04-10-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Slim357
I hear ya there Im working on tail light guards and wanna do the same thing as you man. Best of luck to you!
Best of luck to you as well man!

Got some more bolts and what not. Should be able to perfect one of them now and then copy that for the rest of them.

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Old 04-10-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HudsonN

Best of luck to you as well man!

Got some more bolts and what not. Should be able to perfect one of them now and then copy that for the rest of them.
Thanks man and sounds good if they hold up like they look like they will Ill def get a set from u
Old 04-10-2013, 09:36 PM
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Get em goin and when your ready to ship I'll put em on my rig.
Old 04-11-2013, 06:28 AM
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So the consensus is to get rid of grade 8 bolts and use cheaper bolts and then lower the price accordingly and people would be more interested in them?

When I get home today ill price them out with regular bolts.
Old 04-11-2013, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HudsonN
So the consensus is to get rid of grade 8 bolts and use cheaper bolts and then lower the price accordingly and people would be more interested in them?

When I get home today ill price them out with regular bolts.
I think the grade 8 bolt should be an option if the buyer would like them for the extra price. I know I would like to gave them for the added strength.
Old 04-11-2013, 07:57 AM
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Good idea.


Ill calculate the difference between grade 8 and regular bolts when I get home and have an updated price. Probably like $20 or so cheaper but I can't be sure until I actually calculate it.

Thanks for all the replies. Do you need to pay to be a vendor on this website or no?
Old 04-11-2013, 09:17 AM
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Just a thought, but threaded rod is expensive and with a die set, you could buy some shafting (4140), cut them to length and thread the ends. More labor intensive, but would save a LOT of money. Just my .02 cents worth.
Old 04-11-2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mastrblastr
Just a thought, but threaded rod is expensive and with a die set, you could buy some shafting (4140), cut them to length and thread the ends. More labor intensive, but would save a LOT of money. Just my .02 cents worth.
I was thinking this myself. I just like the threaded rod because its more adjustable.

I do have a 1/2"-20 thread tap. I'm going to actually look into that as well as I can lower the price more if I'm saving money.

I just need to know one thing;

How should the swaybar be hooked up? Should it be level or be pitched up or down? I want to make sure when I start taking measurement I take them with the swaybar in the correct position.
Old 04-11-2013, 04:44 PM
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I believe the sway bar needs to be flat to work properly. On another note here is a pretty good article talking about bolt Grades http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ners/index.asp

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Old 04-12-2013, 06:44 AM
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Mines a daily driver the reasons I like these is, grade 8s, and adjustable. Thats my .02
Old 04-12-2013, 10:30 AM
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Another thing you can do is buy a long 1/2" x 12" grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and thread that end. You can buy a 1/2" x 12" grade 8 bolt at the boltdepot for $8.40, but their bulk prices are way cheaper. I've built lots of studs at work this way when we've needed them. Bulk price for the same bolt is $64.65 for 10 or $593 for a hundred.
Old 04-12-2013, 05:30 PM
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Well, just went ahead and re-calculated it all.

I did not calculate the cost of the flat bar, or the paint, or the quick disconnect pin into the cost. - Just the hardware. (bolts, washers, locknuts, etc etc.)

Sure i could of used all regular nuts and no lock nuts, but i'm trying to make a good product here. I could of skimped out on washers as well, but why?

I was going to calculate it with just grade 5 bolts, but i went ahead and opted to use type 316 stainless steel. It won't rust this way, and will be a better product. Once again, me being me, and making things better.

I added a $20 profit (which honestly i don't think is bad at all) to the cost which brings it to a grand total of $87.21 shipped. I'm thinking $90 shipped is fair. Shipping is through USPS and will be at your doorstep within 2-3 business days of shipping.

Hopefully you guys can see that i'm not being unfair with prices here. Best part about these is that they're 100% adjustable. If the threaded rod i ship becomes too short (you lift it more) you can go to home depot and buy more rod and screw it in and they're good to go again.

If anyone can see a way for me to cut material costs and drop the price some i'm all ears.

Will re-calculate the cost of these with Grade 8 bolts after i go pickup my pizza. (i think i miscalculated them before.)

Total for disconnects with type 316 stainless steel - $90 shipped.

Will have pictures of the final product up Monday. I'm waiting for an order to ship in so i can put them together.

Here's a scanned in copy of my parts list so you can see the breakdown.

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:37 PM
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Not bad there and honestly if these hold up as well as they look like they will (not saying I dout their strength) and you sell a few you can raise the price with the positive feed back you will most likely get to where you have 25-40 in profit and be the preferred discos in the xj world
Old 04-12-2013, 05:51 PM
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That would be sweet.

A $30-35 profit would be nice, but we can all dream. I just need to find a way to really beat the hell out of these and record it to show that they hold up (or break) haha.

How do these brackets look to you? See any flaws?

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