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-   -   Custom Sway Bar Disconnects. (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/custom-sway-bar-disconnects-166906/)

downs807 04-17-2013 07:58 AM

I just got my set on Monday and Hudson is a great guy to do business with. Great product well built. You can't beat these things for the price.

BumsModified98xj 04-17-2013 09:33 AM

Got pics?

mastrblastr 04-17-2013 09:45 AM

IMO, your lower mounting bolts are too long which is going to increase the "bend factor" on the lower mounts. The closer your bottom heim joint is to the lower mount, the less torque you will have on your mount and the less chance of bending/ breaking the mount or your lower bolts.

Those are nice looking disconnects, just need to tweak them a bit!!

XJJeff 04-17-2013 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by mastrblastr (Post 2423260)
IMO, your lower mounting bolts are too long which is going to increase the "bend factor" on the lower mounts. The closer your bottom heim joint is to the lower mount, the less torque you will have on your mount and the less chance of bending/ breaking the mount or your lower bolts.

Those are nice looking disconnects, just need to tweak them a bit!!

Yea I was just about to ask about that, in the first two pictures quick disconnect bolts they are alot shorter. Did that pose a problem being that short?

alpine.adrenaline 04-17-2013 12:22 PM

I'd drop ninety nine ninety nine for a pair of these. I like their design and I don't think you should skimp at all on the bolt grades. My only concern from the pics, and the biggest complaint I have with my current QD links is that there's too much play where the link disconnects. It can produce quite a rattle on dirt road washboards. If there were some sort of bushing or washer sandwiched between the female end of the link, cotter pin, and lower mounting pin I think that'd eliminate the play.

One last thought- where do they go when you disconnect them? I might have missed it in reading through the thread, but provision of some male pins that hold the links out of the way when disconnected would be choice.

Nice fab sir.

bmikes 04-17-2013 10:56 PM

Man! First off I just wanted to say awesome idea with puttin these together like you did! They look beefy and solid! I really like this thread because it's a small guy taking his idea and turning it into something he can make a dime off of; which is something I'd really like to do. I want to get into maybe owning my own fab shop as sort of a side gig to add on to my job, but that will have to be a few years from now when I get my own place with a shop.

Once again though, awesome product and awesome communication (being honest with us all about the quality of components and price)!! Keep it going!

HudsonN 04-18-2013 10:49 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Ill update this more when I get home but here are some better pictures of them installed.

Any ideas on how to make the lower bolt shorter? I made it that length to ensure that the rod is totally vertically and not cockeyed.

My first try I used shorter bolts (like someone pointed at) but that led to the disconnects being more horizontal than vertical.

I could bend the brackets differently and have like a side mount on the swaybar but I'm not sure if that would be better.

The 1/2 spacers all have Allen head set screws in them. You lock the bottom heim against the quick disconnect pin then push the 1/2" spacer up against it and lock it in place. No clicking or anything.

I shipped cotter pins with that first order and apologize about that. There are two quick disconnect pins enroute to your house now. Tell me if you have any questions.


Attachment 344449
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HudsonN 04-18-2013 10:58 AM

Oh and last night (although its totally unrelated) I managed to come up with a bolt on design for redesigning the np242 linkage. Works flawlessly through all gears and doesn't change the shift pattern.

Think there would be any interest in that?

XJJeff 04-18-2013 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by HudsonN (Post 2425016)
Ill update this more when I get home but here are some better pictures of them installed.

Any ideas on how to make the lower bolt shorter? I made it that length to ensure that the rod is totally vertically and not cockeyed.

My first try I used shorter bolts (like someone pointed at) but that led to the disconnects being more horizontal than vertical.

I could bend the brackets differently and have like a side mount on the swaybar but I'm not sure if that would be better.

The 1/2 spacers all have Allen head set screws in them. You lock the bottom heim against the quick disconnect pin then push the 1/2" spacer up against it and lock it in place. No clicking or anything.

I shipped cotter pins with that first order and apologize about that. There are two quick disconnect pins enroute to your house now. Tell me if you have any questions.

Answered my question on the bottom bolt, and as for the 242 transfercase setup absolutely been following Lead Foot and PocketsEmpty since page 2 for the simplify linkage.

bmikes 04-18-2013 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by HudsonN (Post 2425043)
Oh and last night (although its totally unrelated) I managed to come up with a bolt on design for redesigning the np242 linkage. Works flawlessly through all gears and doesn't change the shift pattern.

Think there would be any interest in that?

Do np231 and I would quite possibly be in!

HudsonN 04-18-2013 11:32 AM

5 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by XJJeff (Post 2425082)
Answered my question on the bottom bolt, and as for the 242 transfercase setup absolutely been following Lead Foot and PocketsEmpty since page 2 for the simplify linkage.

Well, then you're in luck as i got one to work and it works wonders. I'll get a video of it shifting up later, but in the meantime here is what it looks like.


Originally Posted by bmikes (Post 2425088)
Do np231 and I would quite possibly be in!

That already exists and Lead Foot on here makes them for like $50.

His doesn't work for the 242 though.


Attachment 344441
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alpine.adrenaline 04-18-2013 01:48 PM

Any thoughts on storing them out of the way when they're disconnected? I suppose nyties would work...

mastrblastr 04-18-2013 03:35 PM

Move the outside top spacer to the other side so your top heim joint is flush to the inner face of the outside of the top mount. That should move the top of the disconnect 1/2" to the outside. Slide the bottom spacer all the way to the mounting nut on your lower mount, redrill your hole for the disconnect pin and cut off the mounting bolt. Might be a little bit cockeyed but will be a lot easier on the bottom bolt and mount.

HudsonN 04-18-2013 07:25 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by mastrblastr (Post 2425484)
Move the outside top spacer to the other side so your top heim joint is flush to the inner face of the outside of the top mount. That should move the top of the disconnect 1/2" to the outside. Slide the bottom spacer all the way to the mounting nut on your lower mount, redrill your hole for the disconnect pin and cut off the mounting bolt. Might be a little bit cockeyed but will be a lot easier on the bottom bolt and mount.

That sounds interesting. I might have to try that out and see how it works.

I'll go move the parts around and get a picture just to be sure i know what you mean by that.

In the meantime i got my T-case Linkage in and got my 4lo working again. Crawled up onto something with the disconnects attached to see if i could snap them, but they held up strong. Obviously not intense wheeling, but the purpose of "Quick Disconnects" is to disconnect them when you go wheeling. Haha.

I honestly think they're good for the road and washboard dirt roads, but i'm more than happy to tweak the design if it makes others happy.


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Slim357 04-18-2013 07:44 PM

Not trying to be knit picky but to me it looks like the passenger side disco is bending a bit like its bowed inward. Could just be the camera angle not sure.


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