custom cargo rack
09-20-2009, 07:49 PM
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custom cargo rack
does anyone have pictures of a custom made metal cargo rack or whatever you guy call them? I have a friend that is a fabricator and i would like him to make me one. I would just like pictures of a custom made one. I have never seen one that i like. I want a cargo rack that starts almost at the front of the cab and all the way to the back.
Jeff
Jeff
09-20-2009, 08:55 PM
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heres mine,
it measures 42" x 58" x 5". you are pretty much stuck with the width (42") if you plan on mounting it like i did. you can make it how ever long you want.
Check out my pics.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...ade-roof-rack/
it cost me 60 bucks minus paint to build in my garage with normal tools. the only thing you will need to rent is a 1" emt pipe bender.
Here is a write up of basically how i did it.
you will need
four 10' pieces of 1" emt conduit (Rails)
three 10' pieces of 1/2" emt conduit (floor)
about 8' of 1/4" x 1" aluminum strip (supports)
2 boxes of self tapping screws
3' of 3/4" galvanized steel pipe (for bushings) from plumbing section
1" Tube bender (rent)
four 1" u bolts (to mount)
2 pieces of thin 12" x 24" diamond plate (optional)
buy a big big square (10 bucks at lowes)
i used the square to make a jig out of 2x4 wood. that was my template to make sure all of my bends were the same.
if you use your factory roof rack to mount it on your width will be 42". my length is 58" but this depends on what you want.
take 1 piece of conduit, make your measurements (mine was 58" front to back) this will probably sound confusing but i will try to explain anyway. your piece of conduit is 120" long. minus 120" by 58" and that leaves you with 62. half of 62" is 31". now you should measure in 31" from one end of the conduit and mark it, now do the same from the other end. you should have 58" in between both your marks. there is a star on the bender. use that as your marker every time and bend 2 90 degree bends into it so it looks like this "[". Take the other 3 pieces and bend them the exact same way. you can cut off the excess later to make it 42" wide. make sure all your pieces are exactly the same. now overlap them like this "[]" and using a square. Measure 10 times cut once. cut off the same amount on each end to make it 42" wide when the ends are butted together.
you will have to grind some of the outer diameter of the 3/4" galvanized steel pipe for it to fit inside the 1" emt. then after it will fit inside the emt, cut four 6" pieces. this will be used to connect both sides of the emt conduit. put 3" in one side and secure and then the other 3" inside the other side.
now use your bushings to connect each side top and bottom and make sure they are the exact same. great thing about self tapping screws is that you can removed them and fix your mistakes unlike welding.
With the aluminum strip. cut it into 5" pieces. Or however tall you want it. it should make around 18 or 19. make sure they are all the same length. you will need to predrill these holes. i used a gig on this also to make sure all my holes in each end would look the same. i will try to upload more pics of these items and jigs tonight. evenly space however many supports you want on each side. i started in the middle of each side then 1/2'd each remaining distance and put another support. when the top and bottom are connected now is a good time to grind down any flaws or sharp points you want to. i ground down flush the ends of my supports. you will need to do this atleast on the bottom to install your floor later.
now once all that is done you can install the floor. measure from one side to the other. you can see on the pics in my profile that i connnected my flooring right under my supports. once you have cut all your 1/2" conduit pieces to the same length. you will need to flatten each end so they will connect flush on the bottom of the rack. predrill these holes and then install. grind down the rough edges. if you want to put thin pieces of diamond plate sheet metal on the corners, now is the time. this is up to you and you can make it look the way you want it. i hope i have explained everything and it is understandable. good luck and send me some pics when your done. there was a lot of measuring and squaring up. this was the first thing i have ever made and fab'd up. i only made one mistake, i said that just to say this. if you take your time and make sure your measurments are good. it is easy.
hopefully i didn't leave anything out
it measures 42" x 58" x 5". you are pretty much stuck with the width (42") if you plan on mounting it like i did. you can make it how ever long you want.
Check out my pics.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...ade-roof-rack/
it cost me 60 bucks minus paint to build in my garage with normal tools. the only thing you will need to rent is a 1" emt pipe bender.
Here is a write up of basically how i did it.
you will need
four 10' pieces of 1" emt conduit (Rails)
three 10' pieces of 1/2" emt conduit (floor)
about 8' of 1/4" x 1" aluminum strip (supports)
2 boxes of self tapping screws
3' of 3/4" galvanized steel pipe (for bushings) from plumbing section
1" Tube bender (rent)
four 1" u bolts (to mount)
2 pieces of thin 12" x 24" diamond plate (optional)
buy a big big square (10 bucks at lowes)
i used the square to make a jig out of 2x4 wood. that was my template to make sure all of my bends were the same.
if you use your factory roof rack to mount it on your width will be 42". my length is 58" but this depends on what you want.
take 1 piece of conduit, make your measurements (mine was 58" front to back) this will probably sound confusing but i will try to explain anyway. your piece of conduit is 120" long. minus 120" by 58" and that leaves you with 62. half of 62" is 31". now you should measure in 31" from one end of the conduit and mark it, now do the same from the other end. you should have 58" in between both your marks. there is a star on the bender. use that as your marker every time and bend 2 90 degree bends into it so it looks like this "[". Take the other 3 pieces and bend them the exact same way. you can cut off the excess later to make it 42" wide. make sure all your pieces are exactly the same. now overlap them like this "[]" and using a square. Measure 10 times cut once. cut off the same amount on each end to make it 42" wide when the ends are butted together.
you will have to grind some of the outer diameter of the 3/4" galvanized steel pipe for it to fit inside the 1" emt. then after it will fit inside the emt, cut four 6" pieces. this will be used to connect both sides of the emt conduit. put 3" in one side and secure and then the other 3" inside the other side.
now use your bushings to connect each side top and bottom and make sure they are the exact same. great thing about self tapping screws is that you can removed them and fix your mistakes unlike welding.
With the aluminum strip. cut it into 5" pieces. Or however tall you want it. it should make around 18 or 19. make sure they are all the same length. you will need to predrill these holes. i used a gig on this also to make sure all my holes in each end would look the same. i will try to upload more pics of these items and jigs tonight. evenly space however many supports you want on each side. i started in the middle of each side then 1/2'd each remaining distance and put another support. when the top and bottom are connected now is a good time to grind down any flaws or sharp points you want to. i ground down flush the ends of my supports. you will need to do this atleast on the bottom to install your floor later.
now once all that is done you can install the floor. measure from one side to the other. you can see on the pics in my profile that i connnected my flooring right under my supports. once you have cut all your 1/2" conduit pieces to the same length. you will need to flatten each end so they will connect flush on the bottom of the rack. predrill these holes and then install. grind down the rough edges. if you want to put thin pieces of diamond plate sheet metal on the corners, now is the time. this is up to you and you can make it look the way you want it. i hope i have explained everything and it is understandable. good luck and send me some pics when your done. there was a lot of measuring and squaring up. this was the first thing i have ever made and fab'd up. i only made one mistake, i said that just to say this. if you take your time and make sure your measurments are good. it is easy.
hopefully i didn't leave anything out
09-21-2009, 11:17 AM
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09-21-2009, 11:46 AM
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09-21-2009, 02:59 PM
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I don't understand why people dont make the rack all the way to the back? I would want mine from as far back as it can be mounted on the sliders and pretty close to the front of the sliders. Why not make more cargo space?
And thanks a lot for the write up. This is one of the first things i want to do to my jeep. But i am going to have my friend fabricate it and have it tig welded.
And thanks a lot for the write up. This is one of the first things i want to do to my jeep. But i am going to have my friend fabricate it and have it tig welded.
Last edited by Geck_87Laredo; 09-21-2009 at 03:01 PM.
09-21-2009, 04:39 PM
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Thanks all i might just do that if enough people want one. not sure of a price i would charge. any ideas?
IMO it just has to do with personal prefrence on how you want it to look and what you plan to do with it
I don't understand why people dont make the rack all the way to the back? I would want mine from as far back as it can be mounted on the sliders and pretty close to the front of the sliders. Why not make more cargo space?
And thanks a lot for the write up. This is one of the first things i want to do to my jeep. But i am going to have my friend fabricate it and have it tig welded.
And thanks a lot for the write up. This is one of the first things i want to do to my jeep. But i am going to have my friend fabricate it and have it tig welded.
IMO it just has to do with personal prefrence on how you want it to look and what you plan to do with it
09-21-2009, 04:43 PM
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Yea i know i actually had the camera out there and had all the intent in the world to make a write up and take step by step pictures. but once i get started on something it is hard for me to stop. i have a couple more pics i can upload as soon as i get a chance. yea its not hard at all. just make sure you measurements are good.
09-21-2009, 06:17 PM
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well if you get a few guys to buy them, the renting of the bender would pay for itself but I would delete this thread cuz now everyone knows that the mats cost around $75 but depends on your time and the shipping cuz then your running into higher prices for a not welded setup and some guys might just pay the extra hundred for the welded/heavy duty metal ones...just my .02
09-21-2009, 06:40 PM
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you want it lower than the 'brand name' ones. and if i buy one, i won't need to pay for shipping, i'll just pick it up. 
09-21-2009, 07:00 PM
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