$7 Disconnects
#18
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Just finished doing this. I may swap out the 2" pins for 2.25" just to keep the wire hair pins from being able to rotate over the ends of the tine pins. You were right - the factory bolts are a friggin' pain to get out. Now I just gotta go test out the increased articulation.
#20
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took it out for a little test run. Friggin' awesome!
Pics: 1 - front sway bar connected
2 - Disconnected
3 - as flexed as it can go. I need to extend my brake lines.
4 - camera is parallel to the ground so it gives you an idea of angle.
5 - I'm running 31's so I'd say that's some pretty good flex.
Pics: 1 - front sway bar connected
2 - Disconnected
3 - as flexed as it can go. I need to extend my brake lines.
4 - camera is parallel to the ground so it gives you an idea of angle.
5 - I'm running 31's so I'd say that's some pretty good flex.
#21
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I went out today and bought the 2" pins but they were about an inch too short for my rig. I would go with 3", you could always cut them down. Also I would put a washer in between the pin and the mount also the cotter pin itself and the rubber.
#22
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
couldnt you have just kept the bolts pressed in, then drill a hole through the end of the bolt?? make it fit perfect instead of wobbling all around...i think ill try that. maybe fill the threads up with jb weld, or epoxy, so its all nice and smooth and easy to take the link off...and if the bolt threatens to come out, weld it in!!
Last edited by XJ4life92; 05-08-2010 at 12:49 AM.
#23
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I would think you could but there's 3 things to consider:
1. I haven't gotten any "wobble" from mine.
2. Simply drilling a hole in the pressed bolt means you have to bend your end link to the side every time you disconnect the sway bar putting unnecessary wear and tear on the upper bushings.
3. It's only $7!
1. I haven't gotten any "wobble" from mine.
2. Simply drilling a hole in the pressed bolt means you have to bend your end link to the side every time you disconnect the sway bar putting unnecessary wear and tear on the upper bushings.
3. It's only $7!
#24
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
I would think you could but there's 3 things to consider:
1. I haven't gotten any "wobble" from mine.
2. Simply drilling a hole in the pressed bolt means you have to bend your end link to the side every time you disconnect the sway bar putting unnecessary wear and tear on the upper bushings.
3. It's only $7!
1. I haven't gotten any "wobble" from mine.
2. Simply drilling a hole in the pressed bolt means you have to bend your end link to the side every time you disconnect the sway bar putting unnecessary wear and tear on the upper bushings.
3. It's only $7!
well, mines a daily driver so i want as little play in the sway bar as possible considering i drive it on the road alot... and im sure if those bushings hold the weight of your car when you corner...they can handle being bent to the side alittle, and this way would probably be cheaper cause all you have to buy are those clips.
its just a suggestion. i think ill try it this way just to see how it works.
#25
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well, mines a daily driver so i want as little play in the sway bar as possible considering i drive it on the road alot... and im sure if those bushings hold the weight of your car when you corner...they can handle being bent to the side alittle, and this way would probably be cheaper cause all you have to buy are those clips.
its just a suggestion. i think ill try it this way just to see how it works.
its just a suggestion. i think ill try it this way just to see how it works.
#26
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
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Mine's a DD too so I understand the concern. Just letting you know there's really no play in it. And there's not much strain on those bushings just going down the road. You gotta figure you'll be bending that end link about 3 inches to get it off that bolt each time you take it off. Once you go offroad with it disconnected once you'll be doing it EVERY time. And really, you're complaining about $3.28? Not trying to sound like a jerk, just kinda made me laugh. All I'm saying is Colinjohns did a nice job finding this out and it works great. It's a 30 second disconnect/reconnect and you actually get to use your suspension's capabilities. Not bad for $7.
all i was thinking was that the bolt would have less play...it just seems safer to me, its also hardened, and yea going down a road doesnt have much force on the bushings, but going through a corner? at high speeds even...add a lift and it gets even worse...
just trying to look at other possibilities.
Last edited by XJ4life92; 05-08-2010 at 02:43 AM.
#28
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all i was thinking was that the bolt would have less play...it just seems safer to me, its also hardened, and yea going down a road doesnt have much force on the bushings, but going through a corner? at high speeds even...add a lift and it gets even worse...
just trying to look at other possibilities.
just trying to look at other possibilities.
#29
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
i have factory links though...so they would still be hanging down...i thought of that last night haha...im not sure if it will work properly when you cant move them out of the way after you disconnect them...
#30
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Year: 1989
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I've been running these for about a week. I have aftermarket quick disconnects but they were rusted solid so I welded everything together. I had to use 3" pins. They have a good amount of movement in them though, they squeak when they move around too. I think I'm going to try the 1/2" pins and grind them to fit tighter. Good write-up though, thanks