blueseasons

The engine had been dying on us over the last two days at increasing intervals.Twice on Friday. Three times on Saturday and 4-5 times yesterday. I did the usual on line searches and found this to me a most common occurrence. Engine dies at any speed, then starts right up again. No check engine light or other dash lights. This time it died 3 times and started up, and then it didn't. For every time I read about this, there seemed to be at least as many solution's. Fuel pump, crank sensor, replace the battery, PCM, PCM connections. The list from well meaning folks who thought they had found the cause for their experience seemed endless and left me no real place to start. I know it's easier to troubleshoot a none functioning vehicle, than an intermittent problem so I am glad it finally died. Not far from home and I have emergency road service. We have just moved back here after 24 years so I had it towed to a mechanic that we went to 24 years ago. I'll let you know what he finds out when I do. We can add it to the list.

ftwelder

I had the same issue with my ZJ and stranded me 100 miles from home. I replaced the fuel tank/pump with one from the JY for $15.00. I guessed correctly, not much more.

blueseasons

Mechanic says PCM. Now the fun $tart$.

Dumajones

Make sure to mark a little mark on the old PCM where only you know, so that way you can tell if they really did replace and not just do this fix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT5vrhb32Lo

blueseasons

Says he can't fix it as he can't "flash" it. I believe that means reprogram it. I am getting mixed information about the PCMs for the 2000 WJ, 4.7. One source tells me the new one needs to be reprogrammed in the vehicle because it needs to communicate with the key another says it doesn't and you can buy them programmed from the VIN and mileage.

I didn't get a check engine light on the dash and the mechanic says he's not 100% sure its the PCM, but it looks like it. He could not retrieve an error code either. He's telling me to take it to a dealer and they will know for sure. He's not trying to get more money from me as he can't fix it. To have it towed to the dealer from where it is would cost at least $200. They have said to troubleshoot it is $135 . The repair , if it's the PCM is at least another grand.

I don't know what to do.

Bustedback

There is an extensive troubleshooting procedure in black and white from Chrysler that will test everything that needs to be tested. Just go to the last line and replace the part that it says to. That method works about 98%of the time.

blueseasons

How do I get a hold of that procedure?

Programbo

I'd try a junkyard PCM first

Bustedback

Google is your friend.

blueseasons

Okaay. Mechanic said he can't fix it as he can't flash a PCM and won't get one from a rebuilt place. Asked me to remove the car. I went there, it started right up and I drove it 3 blocks home. So, it's temperature related. He's sure it's the PCM. Not certain why they would work intermittently. They have to be reprogrammed to the VIN so pulling one from a wreck won't do. There are various on line sources for this part. I guess the only question is where to get one. Anybody have any positive experience from one place or another?

HS00XJ

did you try the video Duma shared?

blueseasons

Not yet. I watched it yesterday. I just got it back this morning. It was at the mechanics for the last day. Going to do that today. Thanks for reminding me. With all this stress I have been putting on myself, I'd forgotten about it.

HS00XJ

its free so cant go wrong...Have you checked cps ? I had a stalling problem when my cps got to running temp only.

blueseasons

This morning when I retrieved it from the mechanics, I used my wife's key to start it. Turned it off and tried it with my key and it started. I went back 4 hours later and it would nor start with my key. I didn't have her's to see if it started with it. I removed the PCM, cleaned out the plug ends and where they plug into the PCM with some electric contact cleaner. Reinstalled it and it started again. Wiggled the wires going to the plugs, like in the video and it did not shut off. I let it idle in the driveway. It shut off after 10 minutes. It restarted and its been idling now for 15 minutes.

I don't know if all this means anything. Just recording what I did and what it is doing. Supposedly the crank position sensor was changed before I bought it a year ago. I am letting it idle in the drive to see if heat affects it. It's warm and sunny out and the with the engine at idle it should make some heat. I believe that mechanic ruled out the CPS. He said nothing is coming/was coming out of the PCM to the trans, injectors etc. Idling 20 minutes now.

blueseasons

So it's not temperature related as it idled for an hour. My brother suggested it might be the Camshaft Position Sensor. Said it wouldn't throw a code if it failed or was failing. He said the giveaway on that would be, when it doesn't start, while I am cranking the engine, the needle for the Tach would react to the engine turning over,(bounce) if the Cam Pos Sensor was good. I would have noticed it if it was bouncing when I was trying to start it.
I can't drive this though as i don't want to get stuck anyplace. I guess I will wait and observe the Tach needle when, it goes back to not starting.

Any thoughts on this idea, anybody?