ripp6957

Do any of you see any issues if I put my 2000 Grand Cherokee up on a U Haul tow dolly and tow from MI to FL? I will unhook rear driveshaft, so I only need to worry about my rear tires and diff, correct? I'll be using my F-350 for the tow rig.
Thanks, Mark the fireman

jeeper kyle

That is how I tow mine a few times a year for a few hundred miles. Tows fine. Get larger straps if your tires are over 30"

docmedpros

sounds fine, but bigger straps and extra chain to super safe, towed my cherokee from miami to san antonio no issues

ehracing67

I tow our 01 grand behind the RV about 4000 miles a year using a dolly. No need to remove driveshaft. Place tcase in neutral, trans in park, and your good to go. Been doing this with jeeps since 96. Easiest vehicles to tow. Used to tow the XJ on all four but the dolly lets me take either of the jeeps.

ol"blue

If you don't have the transfer case that allows the option of 2WD you definitely need to remove the rear shaft when towing with front wheels on the dolly.

Sounds as though you had it right to start with. Just plug rear of t-case when removing rear drive shaft to prevent fluid loss. Or secure shaft securely so it can't become loose and fall out or contact the ground while towing. JMO

ehracing67

I apologize, I assumed you have a 4wd grand since your coming from MI. If you do have a 2wd only, then disconnect the shaft. But if you do have either the 242 or 231 t-case. Then all you need to do is put it in N, that will isolate the transmission

ehracing67

Not to jack the thread, but was wondering why the odometer does not register while towing with tcase in N. is it just because the ignition is off? When I use the dolly keys out completely because the dolly rotates, but when I tow four flat, the key is just in the unlock position so the front tires turn. Our old FSJ always clocked on the odometer when towed. Cable vs electric? I've probably put an additional 60k on the xj just towing it.

ripp6957

Thanks for all the good info! Yes, it is 4WD, so I think I'll go w/ the transfer case in neutral.

jeeper kyle

Safer to just remove the rear shaft while dolly towing.

ehracing67

Just wondering Whats your reasoning why? Over 100k towing several jeeps behind the RV the past 15 years, and never removed the shaft. That's half the reason why we have jeeps. Tow and go. No worry about fluid loss, damaging a shaft, or other parts. Just check/change the t-case fluid more often.

jeeper kyle

We flat or dolly tow our jeep 100+ road miles, then another 10 offroad. These last 10 can get pretty bumpy.
One trip, a buddy has his jeep tcase pop out of N. This caused everything to spin(rear DS feeding into the Tcase) with no oil being pumped.
He needed a new tcase and tranny after that weekend. Better safe than sorry. I don't know what year jeep , but it was a 241 and AW4.

I'm sure most are fine though with just Neutral.

ehracing67

Here's some more info
http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f9...rhome-q-16032/

Viper9087

This applies to all Jeeps and all other SUV's and trucks:


You can tow it:


1) All 4 wheels off the ground in park w/ parking brake. (always recommended method for the newbies) ***A MUST FOR AWD OR "FULL TIME" 4 WHEEL WITHOUT REMOVING SHAFTS OR USING A TRANS PUMP.***


2) With the drive wheels (usually the rear) on the Dolly front wheels steering locked or strap locked, vehicle in park. t-case in 2wd, park brake on. This cannot be done with full time 4wd or AWD. You MUST have a "2wd" setting
***Most Recommended way. This should be the first choice next to flatbeding.***


3) Front wheels on dolly, t-case in neutral, trans in neutral park brake off
***Non t-case (electronic 4wd) set to "2wd" trans in neutral w/ manual trans. Automatics also this way but towed within 15 mi no farther low speed (55 max).*** straps MUST be secure and have safety chains




4) (For again ALL types) front wheels on the dolly, rear- drive shaft off, trans in park park brake off. straps MUST be secure and have safety chains




Flat towing (all 4 wheels on the ground) can be done t-case in neut or 2wd trans in neutral on manual trans. Automatics must have both front and rear driveshafts removed.


Main concern is to limit transmission heat as with the engine off they will not be cooled by the pump. This is why the driveshaft is removed on the drive axel. This can also be compensated by putting an electronic fluid pump inline. Manual trans and differentials do not need cooling.


I'm pretty sure I covered every way of not feel free to chime in, but when using dollies your first choice should be rear wheels (drive wheels) off the ground. it is the simplest and fastest way and unlike removing the driveshaft, you are able to use the park brake which will aid in the vehicle not falling off the dolly. this is why it is most recommended vs pulling the drive shaft.