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Torque Converter Bolts

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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 06:23 PM
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HK024's Avatar
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Year: 2005
Model: Grand Cherokee(WK)
Engine: 3.7l
Default Torque Converter Bolts

Can anyone tell me how to gain access to the torque converter bolts on my 2005 Grand Cherokee? My fluid leaked out and burned up the trans, so i got a new trans. I'm swapping it as i type this, and I'm stuck. I can't get the inspection cover off to remove the tc bolts. I removed the bolts that hold the cover on, but the subframe is in the way of removing it. Has anyone else run into this? Do i need to raise the engine? Please tell me i don't have to drop the subframe. Everything has gone smoothly besides rusty bolts. But now I'm stuck. Help, advice, constructive criticism much appreciated.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 06:53 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

Please post images showing the problem.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 07:10 PM
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Thanks, happy to be here. The pics aren't the greatest.
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 08:07 AM
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Thanks for the images. they are very helpful.





Start w/ the appropriate FSM for the vehicle. The removal / replacement, plus everything else required to service, maintain and repair the vehicle are detailed.

The image shows that several steps must be completed prior to transmission removal. These are: exhaust removal; driveshafts removal and disconnection of transmission fluid lines.

The removal of the 4666159AB MOPAR Power Plant Bending Collar, Manual and Automatic Tranmissions looks to first require removal of the engine oil pan. There does not appear to be any way to remove that casting w/ the engine oil pan in-place.

IMO, if the oil pan is removed, then I would suggest replacement of the rear main seal during that service, per the FSM instructions, because it appears from the images to be leaking.


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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 08:27 AM
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Again, follow the FSM.

It looks like the crossmember support must also be removed.


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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 10:12 PM
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Thank you for your reply. I had already removed drive shafts, cross member, all but the top 2 bell housing bolts, linkage, etc with trans on jack. I normally do the lines as one of the last steps so i don't have to work in the fluid that i will inevitably spill everywhere, regardless of how well placed i think my pan is. The rear main seal is already part of the project. I noticed it leaking when i changed the starter a few months back. Also have new filter and fluid for replacement trans. I hadn't even considered dropping the oil pan to get the inspection plate off the trans. You, sir, might be a genius! I was gonna raise the engine a couple inches but your way seems like a lot less work.
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