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Tell me it is not my PCM

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Old 01-30-2018, 09:54 AM
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OK I have a 93 GC 5.2 46rh bone stock! I call her Pickle! 172k original miles. I had it in a barn for 15 years then got it out about 6 months ago. have been driving it to deliver pizza and I love the car just like I have the other two I have had. I have replaced the fuel pump when I got it out of storage as it was dead. I also had to replace the coil but after those two small things she has been running like a top. So I parked it Thursday night after my shift and then Saturday I was getting ready to do a trans service (fluid filter and band adjustment) and went to move it over in front of my garage and it will not start. It cranks over fine but never hits a lick! So I started simply of course air, spark and gas. Well in just a couple moments I realized no fuel pressure. Then I moved on to see if i could see why my pump wasn't running. My relay never kicks in so I swapped a couple around and went back and checked once again turn the key waiting to hear the pump and nothing once again but I noticed something weird at this point I did not get a check engine light when I turned the key on. So this had me scratching my head then I thought well maybe the the ASD is kicking in so went and swapped that relay as well still nothing. So the only other things I have noticed is that with the key in the on position but not cranking after about 45-60 seconds all the lights ABS, OIL and something else I am not remembering at the moment go out but the security light comes on. Now I have not sit with it in that position for more than about 60 seconds as when I saw that made me wonder if it was security related so I checked all my fuses and they all test ok. So I then locked my doors and reached in through the open window and opened the door to set the alarm off it did as I expected and was cut off by me putting the key in the lift gate as expected so I tried my key in the switch and same results no pump cycle, relay kick in, and no check engine light. Now the problem I am dealing with in my head is it was running well with no issues until I parked it. so thoughts?
Old 01-30-2018, 10:42 AM
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When you're behind the wheel you're "in a Pickle".

This reply shows my ECU capacitor replacement.
Old 01-30-2018, 11:00 AM
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is there away to check the caps with out taking them off the board? Do you think they would just go bad all of a sudden like that with no issues before hand?
Old 01-30-2018, 03:11 PM
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The capacitors are measured after removing the PCM, removing from the covers, digging out the potting, de-soldering from the circuit board, then measuring using either an LCR meter or a capacitance meter.

If the fuel pump is not getting power, then either the fuel pump relay is bad, the wiring is bad or the PCM is bad. Note that the fuel pump ground, Z1 / 14BK must be sound.

The PCM activates the fuel pump relay by grounding Pin 51, Relay Coil.

It is possible to yank the relay and measure the electrical connections to verify power voltages and to verify ground continuity.

The fuses must be verified to be good. These are F3, 10 AMP and F15, 30 AMP.
Old 01-30-2018, 03:20 PM
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awesome thanks for the info and the link to your write up. I just placed and order to get some on the way as i am sure it is only a matter of time either way. I do want to see if the chk light comes on eventually and my pump primes with the key in the on position.
Old 01-31-2018, 08:43 AM
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so like i mentioned earlier it is the lights that keep bugging me in the back of my mind. here is a link to a video i shot yesterday as i only had about 3 min between jobs to get it but here you will see what i am talking about no chk engine but ABS, Air bag and seat belt then if you wait until around 37 - 38 seconds you will see the security light come on and that is the one that is bugging me.

Old 01-31-2018, 09:12 AM
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The Vehicle Theft Alarm (VTA) module will prevent the vehicle from starting. It communicates with the PCM through the CCD bus. The FSM says: "If the security lamp comes on after ignition ON and stays on, the CCD bus communication with the PCM has been lost."

The Factory Service Manual (FSM) has a detailed diagnostic procedure for the VTA.

There are additional tests that may be performed w/ the DRB II tool.

The video didn't show all the dash instruments. What was the indicated battery voltage?

Last edited by wingless; 01-31-2018 at 09:15 AM.
Old 01-31-2018, 10:13 AM
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battery is up i had the tender on it being i had been cranking and had the doors open so long the other day. Any suggestions on the best place to get a FSM?
Old 01-31-2018, 10:18 AM
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Here is one.
Old 01-31-2018, 11:36 AM
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Does this have a switch on the front doors, that when you unlock the doors with a key it disarms the alarm?
Old 01-31-2018, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Does this have a switch on the front doors, that when you unlock the doors with a key it disarms the alarm?
The video w/ the late SECURITY lamp illumination does not act like mine when the VTA goes active.

On mine, the headlights blink and the SECURITY indicator blinks immediately when the VTA goes active, such as from opening a door on a secured vehicle. In that case, using the IR key fob remote to unlock, or using the key in any door or liftgate lock cylinder to unlock will disable the VTA alarm condition.
Old 01-31-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 93GreenGrand
Any suggestions on the best place to get a FSM?
Here is a link to PDF documents.

The VTA is section 8Q.
Old 01-31-2018, 12:18 PM
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Hmm. So not to be redundant and say it all over again .. does he have the key switch system on the '93?
Old 01-31-2018, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Hmm. So not to be redundant and say it all over again .. does he have the key switch system on the '93?
Yes, the '93 w/ VTA has a switch in all three exterior door / hatch lock cylinders that will disable the VTA, or stop an alarming VTA, when the key is used to unlock the doors, just like my '94 ZJ. That same VTA disable function exists when using the IR key fob remote.

Again, the video does not show the VTA going into the alarm mode.
Old 01-31-2018, 01:53 PM
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if i lock my doors and then open by reaching in open window and unlocking manually the alarm goes off headlights and horn until i put the key in the back hatch and then it cuts off. So it feels like that is working but i want to go through the diagnostic in the FSM to verify and make sure something is not wonky.


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