Noah911

Time to replace it all. Plan is:
- radiator replace
- hoses all replace & change to better clamps
- serpentine belt
- water pump replace

I've just replaced thermostat a few weeks ago. Is there anything else you think I should do or replace while doing this work? Do pullys or fan clutch? How would I know the fan clutch would need replaced?

Also was wanting to pick up at Advance, NAPA, Oreilys, AZ all at once, or thru going to separate stores on the same day. I don't want to wait on shipping cause I have time right now, but will not have time very soon later. Any good radiator type to look for, or exact one or brand, etc.. ?

Thank You

Noah911

Is this the correct place on the site to post this?

Hatsuwr

Sure, why are you replacing all that?

Get constant tension clamps rather than worm gear clamps.
I like the Continental Elite Poly-V belts.
As long as your radiator isn't in terrible shape, and you aren't using it in extreme conditions, stock style radiator is more than enough.
Do a really good system flush before installing the new stuff.
Did you stick with stock thermostat temperature?
Often overlooked detail - make sure your radiator cap is functioning properly and that coolant (rather than air) is reentering the system as it cools down after the vehicle is shut off.
Might look into a sacrificial zinc anode rod, maybe replacing the draincock.

I'm a huge fan (hah) of the Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan. If only they would release a line with brushless motors!

You'll have a better product selection if you are open to buying some stuff online. Amazon has a huge number of these items with free 1 or 2 day shipping.

Noah911

Well, heres the deal.
It's all working fine now. It is also all 15 y/o and with136,000 miles on it. I want it all replaced. I put in a Super Stat Stant 195 thermostat after a bad leak from its housings gasket failing. So, it's been flushed really really well! Was putting 1/2 gallon of water in it every day total for a week after just having done a full on flush and refill prior to getting the thermostat housing leak. The h20 pump gasket is in poor shape and I know its about to give just by how it crumbles under my fingers when I press on it.

I will want extreme protection too. I'll be doing a coast to coast drive in a month or so. I also currently, and will be continuing to be driving my jeep a lot all around into no mans land in what will probably soon be turning into extremes of heat.

Thank you on the clamp reccomdations. Also on the belt, and the cap is very important. Stock radiator new along with all the rest redone would be perfect. I was just wondering about if other, maybe even a better or equivalent one that is non mopar and less expensive was available for pick up?

Hatsuwr

I had a radiator leak a while back where I was adding water constantly too. Gets a lot of the debris and water soluble stuff, but If you have any rust you can get a huge amount out just with some citric acid or acetic acid (white vinegar) flushes. Mine was about 7 years older at the time though so you might not have quite the same issue as I did.

I don't know about what your local places have in stock, but I replaced my radiator with one from Spectra Premium and it's been great so far. I think the CU2262 probably fits yours and is ~$90 or so.

Ralph77

Own an '00 XJ and this is about an XJ but guessing it would apply.


Again remembering that I own an XJ. I buy most of my parts at Napa. But I get a discount. Be the first to admit they are pricey.

The Napa radiator is a rebranded Spectra which had been in my Jeep for 6 years and seems fine. I am pretty sure this brand can be picked up at the likes of Advance, Auto Zone, etc.

Get on Advances and PepBoys email list. They will email you promo codes which might come in handy.

When it comes to belts, hoses, water pumps, and pulleys I want Gates. All the parts from Napa would be rebranded gates. Not sure about other stores.

I also purchased my fan clutch from Napa. My Jeep ran fine. Never overheated and there has been many a time I let it idle in the driveway for maybe as much as 2 hours. But after watching that video decided to replace it anyway. Napa ones are rebranded Haydens to the best of my knowledge and is a more brand name one.

As far as the pulleys go that will have to be your call. My rule of thumb is "Well while we are here maybe we should....". Thing is you have to draw the line somewhere. A pulley can be replaced pretty easy on an XJ. Not sure about a Grand Cherokee but maybe if it seems alright let that go.

My last tip would be to buy a FelPro gasket for the water pump instead of using the one the pump would come with. Also do Grand Cherokees have a water pump inlet tube? If so that I would replace. This is the one for my Jeep. Is a Dorman part and is the exact same part that Napa would sell you. Many things at Napa are rebranded Dorman parts.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-water-pump-inlet-tube-no-gasket-needed-56398/10098963-P?utm_medium=ymme&vehicleIdSearch=42439&isAllVehic le=false

I see no mention of anti-freeze but thinking that was a given. LOL.

Forgot about the radiator cap. Napa would be a rebranded Stant to the best of my knowledge. Thinking this brand can be purchased at other stores too.

Noah911

Ralph77 Thats good information. I could probably go pick all of what I needed today and get it done. I do remember reading about Spectra radiators being a good choice too. I use FelPro gaskets. I put one on the thermostat housing. I think thats what I got for when I do the transmission filter to use for its pan gasket (maybe that with WIX filter? I picked it up a few months back for transmission)? WIX air filter and Mopar oil filters.

I didn't ask about the coolant correct.. ZEREX GO5 at 60/40 with distilled h20 is the good stuff I understand, and thats what I plan to put in.

When the thermostat housing was leaking bad. The system needed filled 1/2 gal per day. So, I picked up 4-5 gallons of distilled h20 to replace what was being lost throughout the day for that week. I didn't put tap or hose water in it to run during that time.

I've looked up so much stuff about these wj's on this site, and on other internet places. I feel prepared for all the known problematic things that these wj's are known for... Where and what to look towards when things are not operating proper. Write-ups are everywhere, and some are very professional and good. Its cool when posting about things like this maintenance items and plans, because I just joined this site and I quickly learned some very valuable unknown to me new information, even important overlooked little things about specifics like the types of bolts, etc.. I've searched and looked, but was also taught and provided more guidance with my questions and concerns by posting. That's such a great thing!

I really enjoy learning and knowing more about these Jeeps. I enjoy having one a lot! It performes greatly, and for what I do with it, it's seems nearly a perfect vehicle. I hope for a long time.

I am easy.. and also kind of hard on my Jeep. There are days when it does not get shut down. I drive easy miles, then stop to idle for a time while moving and re-parking short distances for a few hours (I'd be turning it on and off 100's of times a day), and then drive easy miles, then slow speed thru messy dirt trail roads for a few hours with some stops to idle again... All day long that goes on and it stays turned on and running or at idle.

robertj

I will add one thing, when that thermostat fails and your XJ has trouble getting to temperature, make sure you replace it with an OEM Mopar unit.

Noah911

I agree! (I have a wj)

Also, I called the Jeep dealer to buy an oem stat, and they told me the 'Stant' Super Stat was the best choice. It is a newer design without a hole to line up at 12 O'clock when installing. It's got a V-design that slowly increases the coolant some during start to warm-up as I understand. Instead of the hole which is all on one amount of steady flow. That's what I chose to put in, and it's functioning excellent

I'll probably replace the pipe-like metal piece connected to the thermostat. The Dorman piece it'll be available I understand and stocked at most parts stores. Maybe not though because mine seems fine to keep in use when looking and feeling it. It will be beneficial to put some new plumbers-type sealing thread tape on it before re-installing if it does get removed.

robertj

It is preferable, but those threads are tapered and it seals fine without it if you can get it snug enough when it's clocked properly. Ask me how I know.

Noah911

How? 😎

Hatsuwr

What's wrong with Stant thermostats? They, for whatever it's worth, claim to have better performance and durability than OE. Looked pretty solid to me.

Are you talking about the bent pipe that goes up to one of the heater hoses? That thing is horrible. Replaced mine with a short straight fitting. I used Oatey Great White joint compound instead of PTFE tape.

Ralph77

Depends on what you read. I read where a guy said he went through 5 Stants before he found one that worked. One guy said he used a Mopar one and had to replace it with a Stant cause it did not work.
I put a Stant in mine about 6 years ago and it was fine. So.....

I was thinking about getting rid of that black pipe on my XJ if and when I do a water pump. Seen a write up or 2 about it over the years.
We will see how I feel when the time comes.

Hatsuwr

Interesting. They have some great reviews on Amazon at least, best of the ones available for ZJ's that I saw back when I was looking. Definitely would go with their better SuperStat ones if choosing Stant since they are so cheap either way. And whichever is chosen, test it in a pot of water first!

Not sure if it would have the same application for yours, but I found the fitting I used on my '96 4.0 ZJ: https://www.grainger.com/product/6AFH7?
Holding up great so far!

Ralph77

I want say they use the barb one in the write ups I have seen. Like this one.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...er_Also_Viewed

I think I like what you used better. Less ripping inside of the hose if you need to remove it for some reason and the ridge makes its better for securing the clamp IMO. Assuming there is enough room between the ridge and the "nut" there.