No Spark 1997 ZJ Limitted 5.2 federal emissions
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL, USA
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 5.2 (318 Magnum)
No Spark 1997 ZJ Limitted 5.2 federal emissions
No Spark 1997 ZJ Limitted 5.2 federal emissions
Apologies in advance if this topic has already been discussed, as I’m sure it has. I have searched the form but certainly not to the forums end.
My jeep almost never starts on the first try due to no-spark. If I turn the key to ignition and leave it ON for a few minutes it will start. When it’s cool out it takes longer. When it’s wet out it takes longer and when it’s cool AND wet it essentially becomes a no-start.
When it's in it’s no-start/no-spark condition, the gauges for fuel and battery do not respond and the low-fuel light is 'on' and the fuel pump runs nonstop. After leaving the key on for several minutes and turn the key off and back on again, the fuel gauge and battery gauge respond and the low-fuel light goes out and the fuel pump pressurized and shuts off. Turn the key off and on several more times and we have a start.
I’ve replaced many items related and unrelated to ignition except for the key switch, ECM, and distributor coil pickup. Checked all visible grounds under the hood and visually for potential shorts near hot and against moving areas...and of course have checked fuses and swapped out relays.
Gauges and fuel pump run-on are the only failure indicators in this condition. There are no other visible symptoms nor typical security system symptoms.
Replaced:
Fuel Pump (new)
CPS (new)
AIC (new)
MAP (recycled)
TPS (recycled)
Battery (new)
BCM (recycled)
Main engine wiring harness (known good)
Coil (new)
Injectors (reconditioned)
Cap (new)
Rotor (new)
Can someone shed some wisdom on this issue?
Apologies in advance if this topic has already been discussed, as I’m sure it has. I have searched the form but certainly not to the forums end.
My jeep almost never starts on the first try due to no-spark. If I turn the key to ignition and leave it ON for a few minutes it will start. When it’s cool out it takes longer. When it’s wet out it takes longer and when it’s cool AND wet it essentially becomes a no-start.
When it's in it’s no-start/no-spark condition, the gauges for fuel and battery do not respond and the low-fuel light is 'on' and the fuel pump runs nonstop. After leaving the key on for several minutes and turn the key off and back on again, the fuel gauge and battery gauge respond and the low-fuel light goes out and the fuel pump pressurized and shuts off. Turn the key off and on several more times and we have a start.
I’ve replaced many items related and unrelated to ignition except for the key switch, ECM, and distributor coil pickup. Checked all visible grounds under the hood and visually for potential shorts near hot and against moving areas...and of course have checked fuses and swapped out relays.
Gauges and fuel pump run-on are the only failure indicators in this condition. There are no other visible symptoms nor typical security system symptoms.
Replaced:
Fuel Pump (new)
CPS (new)
AIC (new)
MAP (recycled)
TPS (recycled)
Battery (new)
BCM (recycled)
Main engine wiring harness (known good)
Coil (new)
Injectors (reconditioned)
Cap (new)
Rotor (new)
Can someone shed some wisdom on this issue?
#2
Senior Member
Welcome to the forum.
The first step should be to disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Then, disassemble, inspect, clean, assemble and tighten every battery power cable terminal and every ground terminal.
After everything is intact, reconnect the battery negative terminal.
The first step should be to disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Then, disassemble, inspect, clean, assemble and tighten every battery power cable terminal and every ground terminal.
After everything is intact, reconnect the battery negative terminal.
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL, USA
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 5.2 (318 Magnum)
Thank you for the welcome!
Yes battery terms are the first go-to for mystery problems. This I have done...several times. I have also cleaned connectors on both sides of the ECM.
Yes battery terms are the first go-to for mystery problems. This I have done...several times. I have also cleaned connectors on both sides of the ECM.
#4
Senior Member
Not just the terminals on the battery, but both ends of all those high current connections.
That includes the chassis electrical connection points, plus all the terminals in the stack.
Take them all apart (after disconnecting the battery negative terminal) then clean, clean, clean. I like using a brass toothbrush, but there are many options to abrade away the surface oxidation that kills the connection.
That includes the chassis electrical connection points, plus all the terminals in the stack.
Take them all apart (after disconnecting the battery negative terminal) then clean, clean, clean. I like using a brass toothbrush, but there are many options to abrade away the surface oxidation that kills the connection.
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