New Jeep Owner! Need Help, Eating Oil
09-19-2011, 04:01 PM
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
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New Jeep Owner! Need Help, Eating Oil
Ok so as of Saturday i will be picking up my first jeep. (1996 Grand Cherokee Limited v8, no lift, 170k) i went and put $500 down on it had the guy sign a written contract (did so Sunday) that he wouldn't sell it out on me and that i wouldn't flake out on him.
i had started it and it started up fine but off the bat i noticed blue/gray smoke from the exhaust (only at start up). i asked the guy if it eats oil (already knew it did from the smoke at start up) he said yeah he usually throws a little oil in it every time he refills a fulls the tank. he said hes driven it like that for the 5 years hes had it. (this was before i put down the payment and signed the agreement) so i thought "eh that's not to bad"
no that i have spoken with the guy today he said he thinks its a valve and that "a little oil at ever fill up" was actually a hole quart...
just wondering what are some tell tale sings of it being a valve? if it is a valve/valve-guide how hard would it be to do my self?
or do you think it might be warn rings?
thank you for your time reading this post... and any answers or things you think i should check before i buy it would be GREATLY appreciated!
*EDIT... Also The Driver Seat Wouldn't Work From The Controls, But The Passenger Will... Any Way I Can Get The Seat To Move Back Manually? (maybe 12v batt to the motor its self to bypass the switch?) Because I Believe Its The Switches As None Of The Motors On The Driver Seat Are Working!
i had started it and it started up fine but off the bat i noticed blue/gray smoke from the exhaust (only at start up). i asked the guy if it eats oil (already knew it did from the smoke at start up) he said yeah he usually throws a little oil in it every time he refills a fulls the tank. he said hes driven it like that for the 5 years hes had it. (this was before i put down the payment and signed the agreement) so i thought "eh that's not to bad"
no that i have spoken with the guy today he said he thinks its a valve and that "a little oil at ever fill up" was actually a hole quart...
just wondering what are some tell tale sings of it being a valve? if it is a valve/valve-guide how hard would it be to do my self?
or do you think it might be warn rings?
thank you for your time reading this post... and any answers or things you think i should check before i buy it would be GREATLY appreciated!
*EDIT... Also The Driver Seat Wouldn't Work From The Controls, But The Passenger Will... Any Way I Can Get The Seat To Move Back Manually? (maybe 12v batt to the motor its self to bypass the switch?) Because I Believe Its The Switches As None Of The Motors On The Driver Seat Are Working!
Last edited by KingKongEnclosures; 09-20-2011 at 06:50 AM. Reason: driver seat problems...
09-19-2011, 04:10 PM
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would check for leaks also before I did anything major....I just bought my 95 xj a month ago and was amazed at how much my oil filter adapter was leaking out...a compression test will tell you if you have bad rings...good luck and welcome to CF...
09-19-2011, 04:16 PM
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Year: 1996
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iv been threw 3 GMs, 1 Ford and, 2 Rice makers... TIME FOR A REAL VEHICLE!
09-19-2011, 05:47 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was burning about a quart of oil every 600 miles. It would smoke pretty good at start up and a little all the time. Knowing that the 4.0 is not known for burning oil even with stupid amounts of miles on them I took action.
The valve seal on the left is typical of the dozen. The one on the right is new. Slight difference in the hole diameter.
I used the method of putting air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while disassembled. The hose off a compression tester worked well.
Had to make a spring compressor for the back two cylinders as the t-handle on the Craftsman I bought would not fit under the firewall overhang. Just threaded it into the rocker arm tower and used it to leverage the spring down. Four hands would be better than two when handling this tool and the keepers.
I have not noticed any smoke since the seal change. Took a couple of hours.
Note: If you attempt this it will make a HELL of a racket at start up even using asembly lube. I about shart myself thinking a valve had dropped or a rod bent. I went so far as shutting it down immediatly and pulling the valve cover agiain and rechecking everything.
I also switched to Rotella (high zinc content) and noticed the engine is much much quiter now.
The Hansen service manual for ZJ's is a good investment. It contradicts itself some but if you aren't a mouth breather you should be able to figure it out.
The valve seal on the left is typical of the dozen. The one on the right is new. Slight difference in the hole diameter.
I used the method of putting air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while disassembled. The hose off a compression tester worked well.
Had to make a spring compressor for the back two cylinders as the t-handle on the Craftsman I bought would not fit under the firewall overhang. Just threaded it into the rocker arm tower and used it to leverage the spring down. Four hands would be better than two when handling this tool and the keepers.
I have not noticed any smoke since the seal change. Took a couple of hours.
Note: If you attempt this it will make a HELL of a racket at start up even using asembly lube. I about shart myself thinking a valve had dropped or a rod bent. I went so far as shutting it down immediatly and pulling the valve cover agiain and rechecking everything.
I also switched to Rotella (high zinc content) and noticed the engine is much much quiter now.
The Hansen service manual for ZJ's is a good investment. It contradicts itself some but if you aren't a mouth breather you should be able to figure it out.
09-19-2011, 11:20 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The bottom of the intake manifold on the V8 engine has a plate with a gasket that tends to blow out and will suck oil in. You have to remove the intake to replace the gasket. You can have a shop that has a smoke machine check to see if the gasket is leaking by forcing smoke into the intake and see if the smoke comes out of the oil fill cap.
Last edited by Bustedback; 09-19-2011 at 11:24 PM.
09-20-2011, 02:08 AM
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Year: 1996
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The bottom of the intake manifold on the V8 engine has a plate with a gasket that tends to blow out and will suck oil in. You have to remove the intake to replace the gasket. You can have a shop that has a smoke machine check to see if the gasket is leaking by forcing smoke into the intake and see if the smoke comes out of the oil fill cap.
09-20-2011, 07:50 AM
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Year: 1996
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I was burning about a quart of oil every 600 miles. It would smoke pretty good at start up and a little all the time. Knowing that the 4.0 is not known for burning oil even with stupid amounts of miles on them I took action.
The valve seal on the left is typical of the dozen. The one on the right is new. Slight difference in the hole diameter.
I used the method of putting air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while disassembled. The hose off a compression tester worked well.
Had to make a spring compressor for the back two cylinders as the t-handle on the Craftsman I bought would not fit under the firewall overhang. Just threaded it into the rocker arm tower and used it to leverage the spring down. Four hands would be better than two when handling this tool and the keepers.
I have not noticed any smoke since the seal change. Took a couple of hours.
Note: If you attempt this it will make a HELL of a racket at start up even using asembly lube. I about shart myself thinking a valve had dropped or a rod bent. I went so far as shutting it down immediatly and pulling the valve cover agiain and rechecking everything.
I also switched to Rotella (high zinc content) and noticed the engine is much much quiter now.
The Hansen service manual for ZJ's is a good investment. It contradicts itself some but if you aren't a mouth breather you should be able to figure it out.
The valve seal on the left is typical of the dozen. The one on the right is new. Slight difference in the hole diameter.
I used the method of putting air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while disassembled. The hose off a compression tester worked well.
Had to make a spring compressor for the back two cylinders as the t-handle on the Craftsman I bought would not fit under the firewall overhang. Just threaded it into the rocker arm tower and used it to leverage the spring down. Four hands would be better than two when handling this tool and the keepers.
I have not noticed any smoke since the seal change. Took a couple of hours.
Note: If you attempt this it will make a HELL of a racket at start up even using asembly lube. I about shart myself thinking a valve had dropped or a rod bent. I went so far as shutting it down immediatly and pulling the valve cover agiain and rechecking everything.
I also switched to Rotella (high zinc content) and noticed the engine is much much quiter now.
The Hansen service manual for ZJ's is a good investment. It contradicts itself some but if you aren't a mouth breather you should be able to figure it out.
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09-20-2011, 08:06 AM
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Year: 1996
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09-20-2011, 08:20 AM
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and even looking for a more in depth walk threw as im more auto-body then mechanic...
09-21-2011, 01:30 PM
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