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I have a 2001 Jeep Grande Cherokee Larado Limited, and can't get it to start. I've replaced the starter already and had alt and battery checked. It started acting up a month ago with it not starting when I turned the key right away, and progressively has gotten worse, till now it will not start at all. Did some research on internet and found that the switch could have broke. I need to know how to replace the switch.
Last edited by C_Peddicord; Jun 16, 2017 at 06:56 PM.
Yellow C_ and welcome! If you explain a bit better what it's doing someone may be able to help. Is it cranking but not firing? Got a "click", How about dash lights n stuff.....
Yellow C_ and welcome! If you explain a bit better what it's doing someone may be able to help. Is it cranking but not firing? Got a "click", How about dash lights n stuff.....
I have dash lights and consale light, when I turn key to start. there is nothing, no click, nothing. Started about a month ago before I replaced starter. And it progressivly go worse. At first it would start after a few turns of the key, then it started really going down hill from there, till now when I turn key to start, there is nothing.
First and foremost are the battery connections tight and not corroded? Perhaps clean them up a bit with a wire brush just to be sure.
Did you replace the starter because you had evidence it was bad or did you fire the parts canon?
Yes battery connections are tight, and yes they are clean, I had alternator and battery checked after replacing the starter.
I replaced the starter because thats what I thought it was, not knowing the ignition switch could go bad. But when it stopped starting at all, I did some research and found out about the switch going bad. I just need to find out how to replace the switch, Not the key-locking cyliniod but the switch.
Much like a flywheel the sector shaft is keyed onto the actuator rack and when you turn the key this in turn presses the ignition switch rod down to engage the starter. If the teeth get worn or broke off it won't engage the ignition switch . All you have to do is pull the ignition cylinder and shine a light in and inspect the teeth on the rack.
Can also be the ignition actuator rack and rod . They're tons of fun .
Last edited by GreaseMonkey17; Jun 17, 2017 at 10:03 PM.
Can also be the ignition actuator rack and rod . They're tons of fun .
How would I go about pulling that out. Thats what I need to know. Because the research I have done for this project points to the switch. I can see the switch but there is a star screw with a tiny post in the middle that I can't get out. And from my research the connecting rod that is part of the actuator could be broken. If it is I need to remove and replace. I have the panels off already.
I would go get one. It will help you not fire the parts cannon so much. There is a slim possibility that you have a bad starter/starter solenoid (I know you just replaced it). If the replacement was a remanufactuered starter, they are know to crap out on you (ask forum member, nujeepguy).
You would feel like a real dingus if you ripped your steering column apart for nothing. A few simple voltages checks at the starter will tell you this. Start with simple, move to complex. At this point in time, it could also be a bad wire.
We must use evidence, probability, and logic when troubleshooting.
So I guess you are at a bit of crossroads here. Take the red pill and buy a DMM or take the blue pill and fire the parts cannon. Either way, good luck. Hope you get you rig running.
I would go get one. It will help you not fire the parts cannon so much. There is a slim possibility that you have a bad starter/starter solenoid (I know you just replaced it). If the replacement was a remanufactuered starter, they are know to crap out on you (ask forum member, nujeepguy).
You would feel like a real dingus if you ripped your steering column apart for nothing. A few simple voltages checks at the starter will tell you this. Start with simple, move to complex. At this point in time, it could also be a bad wire.
We must use evidence, probability, and logic when troubleshooting.
So I guess you are at a bit of crossroads here. Take the red pill and buy a DMM or take the blue pill and fire the parts cannon. Either way, good luck. Hope you get you rig running.
I can check with a simple light test right?? I have one of those testers you hook up to a ground and touch the tip to a point. That should work correct?
I can check with a simple light test right?? I have one of those testers you hook up to a ground and touch the tip to a point. That should work correct?
Yep, that works too. It's a little rougher than a DMM but it's fine to the job.