87jeep

i got a 1996 grand cherokee and i have a system in it and i heard there is a way to get the regulator to put out alittle more power is this true is there another way to get more without putting in a alt

Blind Driver

my buddy drives an x-terra with to much electrical stuff and he did the big 3 which helped a little. The big three refers to the wiring for the charging system; battery to ground (frame or body), alternator to battery, and engine to frame (or body)

5-90

Upgrading your mains can help (there's a link in my sig... )

But, if you want more power out of your alternator, an alternator replacement is going to be what you want. Your 1996ZJ should have a 90A ND (for the 242ci I6, std. 318ci V8) or a 120A ND (optional 318ci V8.) The regulator circuit is in the PCM, and I don't suggest modifying it...

If you don't have the 120A unit, you should be able to install it easily. In 1997 and 1998, a 136A unit was an option, and your bracketry should accept it. NB: If you only have a 90A and upgrade, and you're going to use the full output (or close to it) often, you will want to upgrade your mains and fuse protection.

You can also check with a local alternator/starter shop, they can "upwind" the units for you. The OEM regulator will have no trouble handling the thing, since it won't have to supply as much voltage to the field coils for the same current output.

NB: You will not be able to get full output at idle, no matter what you do! Alternators just don't work that way. The typical unit will give you 40-45% of full output at idle, and won't be able to generate full output until they reach 3200-3500rpm spindle speed (crankshaft speed of 1200rpm or so, due to pully ratios.) This is not a flaw with the alternator - it's just how they work. Nothing is wrong. Using a "larger" (higher output) alternator can give you more current at idle (simple mathematics - 40% of 136A is more than 40% of 90A,) but if you need even more than that, you're going to have to spend some serious coin on a high-high-output unit, like from Mean Green or Nations (I believe there are a couple of other suppliers as well. I'll have to look, if you can't find them.) You will need to upgrade mains at that point. Period.

Note that the alternator output lead is fused - and it is fused for a reason. A good kit will give you the ability to replace that fuse with something rated higher (like what you'd need,) and a good vendor won't sell you a kit without that fuse option (because engine bay fires suck. I've had to put out a few myself on the side of the road, because people half-arsed an upgrade. I'm not going to put anyone else in that position if I can avoid it.)

However, the regulator isn't anywhere that you can fiddle with it, you can't install an external adjustable without throwing a persistent hard code (which will cause you to fail inspections, and will also mask the presence of other hard codes when they come up,) and the alternator will only be able to live with the higher output for so long before it blows diodes on you. Better to replace the alternator - just do the job right, y'know? (Blown diodes mean that your electronics get AC voltage instead of DC. Electronics designed for DC voltage don't like AC voltage, and usually respond by letting all the smoke out. You can't let the smoke out of electronics, you can't put it back in...)

87jeep

ok i heard that the durango 5.9 has a 160amp alt in it and is compatible and fits right into the 5.2 well basically i want to do the cheapest way possible with out spending the 500 bucks for a ho unit

5-90

I've posted a list of possible donors around here somewhere. If you can't find it, PM me and I can email you a .pdf of the list.

NB: I have not yet verified possible working for all applications on the list! Much of the information is still "best guess," and it will be a bit before I can really refine it...

Jeeper426

is it possible to swap the computer controlled alt for a non computer controlled alt in an '88 cherokee, or would that cause problems with the renix EFI? i was thinking about putting a GM 3 wire alt in my '88 for higher output than the stock alt has, but i'm not sure if i can do this or not and the computer not throw a fit about it, anyways, thanks ahead of time for input

5-90

The RENIX alternator is not "computer controlled" - it's a Delco CS130 with an internal regulator. Factory options were 61A, 80A, or 100/105A - and any competent shop can push any of those units (same case, different internals) out to 140-150A without a good deal of trouble.

The regulator for the CS130 is inside the alternator case - you're probably thinking of the 1991-up vehicles, which use a Nippondenso alternator with the regulator circuit in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) - instead of in the alternator proper or as a separate module.

A standard Delco CS130 configuration may be used, as may a CS130 configured as a "one-wire" or "self-exciting" unit without any difficulty, as RENIX is "pre-OBD" and the engine control system does not monitor alternator output/electrical system voltage.

Jeeper426

i might have been thinking of the later model nippon denzo alternators, but this alt has a harness that has 5 wires, then it has another that has 2 that plugs into the side of the case, then the wire to the batt on the back, and i was reading someware, but i guess the information was flawed about that 5 wire harness being to the computer, unless its for the charge light on the dash and the gauge, so i was a little confused, but its good to know that a good alt shop can put the better guts into that same case, i'll have to look into that, thanks for the info

Crazy Amos

Somebody get this b**** outta here!!!

cf1k1

Report the post...

Crazy Amos

I already did.

cf1k1

Okay. All we can do till a mod can take care of it.

In regards to the OP, the big three, which was already mentioned, will help a lot. I went 2 gauge on all grounds (body ground and engine ground) except the strap on the fire wall and 4 gauge to the main power (starter, alternator and fuse box). When my lights, system etc were on, I'd draw at 12 volts usually. Now, I'm drawing at 14. It helps. I went with marine quality wire and ends, this way you are ensures that the crap won't rust considering its all saltwater proofed. To get the wire, go to a West Marine or something of the equivalent. Shouldnt be more than $30. Don't buy the "kits" online because, in my opinion, $50+ is not worth it seeing as though, it appears the seller is making about $20 in profit. It's not that difficult and about a 20 min job depending on how you attach your ends. I got the marine terminals too which are top post terminals; meaning, all the wires have rings on them and are held on to the battery with a wing but. Stay away from the gold plates crap because they are crap. "The big three" and the headlight harness switch are some of the best mods to our vehicles, IMHO. Best of luck.

5-90

Depends on the seller - I've got to make money doing something! I probably do a lot more testing than most shops, tho, and I'm more willing to do "off-list" stuff...

cf1k1

That wasn't directed to you directly. More of a generic statement. Personally? If I can find the same stuff and for cheaper, I'm gonna do it. Now, if you're ordering whole sale and getting the stuff cheaper than I need and shipping just makes the product cos more, I'm gonna buy from you. I support small American business. Didn't mean to sound like an ****.

5-90

I didn't take it personally, not at all!

Just understand the difference between "big businesses" (the ones that, say, can buy cable by the mile and have beancounters controlling things) and us little guys (who have to get short put-ups, manage lower expenses because we work out of our garages, but pay more for materials, and don't have beancounters screwing up engineering & quality decisions.)

The big businesses do it because they know they can make money doing it, but everything is a "profit centre" (including Pack & Post - they mark that up as well!)

The little guys do it because we hope we can make money at it, but not as much as the big guys - so we have to trade on quality instead of price. This makes us more picky about materials and workmanship, but it's common to find a cheaper price through the big guys. However, that cheaper product is usually also an inferior product (I got a cheap-O aftermarket battery cable once and checked it out. Coarse strands, the copper wasn't annealed to improve fatigue life, and it wasn't even copper anyhow - the wiring was CCA, or Copper-Clad Aluminum. Weak! That's not even counting that I could pull the crimped eye off with minimal effort, and that the terminii weren't sealed to keep crud out...)