so instead of going to get a newer updated part I spent a little more time and decided to look for some air in other places. I started at the lines coming out of the MC first one I cracked open I got a working pedal after that little bit of air right there everything works as it should. Now I am going to do a replace of the fluid. However does any one know if I would see any gain by changing to say one from a wj or a Durango? Thanaks for all the input.

 

I know how hard it is to rebleed a system, not hard just mental resistance. I have often had that happen to me, like dang I have to do it again. If you opened the system at the master cylinder you should bleed the whole system again following the manual. I know it sucks but that's how it is, use the fliud that the cap or the writing on the reservoir says, DOT 4 meets DOT 3 specs, DOT 4 is more resistant to heat.

A general rule is that you start bleeding the system at the caliper/component furthest away from the master cylinder, then work your way back. It doesn't say that but it gives the sequence and where to start depending on where the system was opened . If a caliper was replaced it wouldn't require that the master cylinder be blead, but if the system is opened at the master cylinder it requires that the calipers be blead first working back to the master cylinder.

 

I learned that wrenching is like racing, "fast is slow, and smooth is fast". I've worked on vehicles that I had to bleed 5 or 6 times before I got it right. That is not the norm but sometimes that's what is required, for instant you find other defects after the original repair.

I really didn't like asking a coworker over and over to assist me with bleeding the brakes, that's when having a brake bleeder ball comes in handy, or something similar:

http://www.google.com/search?q=brake...iw=320&bih=508

 

Okay, I see you ended up at the MC in the bleeding sequence, good job. Just take my thread for ininformation, again good work.

 

When my mechanic changed my brake calipers he used a pressure bleeder. I asked him why he used that instead of the old "pump&hold" method he uses for everything else. He told me it works way better with the pressure system if your working on an ABS system because it bleeds that at the same time.