CheerioKey

My AC is crap and I'm looking to get something portable to keep my dog cool when I'm going into the store or boondocking in the heat. I'm thinking I could get a Zero Breeze Mark2 as I can charge it on solar. But where to exhaust it. I was thinking I could exhaust it thru the Quarter Panel Exhauster. Is that possible? I haven't pulled the interior panels out yet (doing that in a couple of weeks to get on with the insulation) so I don't know what it looks like.

I have a 98 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0.

Thanks

98 Cherokee Classic

I have a 2009 WK and the key fob is sticking in the acc position. It will start and eventually I can get it out by restarting the truck and shifting into drive and back into park. Sometimes it works right away, other times it takes several tries. I searched all around on the internet and most of the posts suggest replacing the shift module. It is a pricey part. Anyone cure this any other way? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

dstrybos

Thanks Guys for the great forum. Working my way through a litany of issues on a 2003 WJ Laredo 4.0 2wd I picked up at auction. It was an apartment complex impound. I should of ran from it but could not resist, like bad pizza. So its been an adventure working through the treasure map of issues with a lot of "what was this guy up to's" before he lost it and it got towed. Jeep had no key or battery and last registered in 2017 (April 2021 now).
So far I:
-Installed a new radiator and water pump since when I buttoned it all up initially, both were leaking. fixed
-Bought a battery - done
-Called the locksmith and he cut and coded the key so no security X on the dash - done
-Jeep cranked fine but would not start, even on starting fluid. Further investigation, bad CPS. 1st clue, wire was cut at the connector. 2nd - transmission shifter bracket was hanging. This is where he got stuck on his swaptronix journey. Probably gave up and let it get towed I'm guessing.
-Replaced CPS and put it back together - Done - major accomplishment because now I have a working ignition.
-Now it gets unfun - Car will try to start if I put gas done the TB but not otherwise. I cannot hear the FP trying to prime. Fuses are all good per trouble light. Swapped a few relays around to see if it was a FP relay. No change.
-Wondering a couple things and after reading all the fuel related issues people have had, I'm not sure where to turn. I have no codes since the car has not run since I put in the new battery.
-Automatic shut off circuit? Could the new key cause a problem even if there is no security X on the dash? How likely? I thought I saw a picture on the forum on how to bypass the ASO relay to check for FP good. Is that a good way to check it out? Please repoint me to the pic.
-Bad ground? I have never seen more issues on a vehicle tied to bad grounds! Drivers side door? Perfect place for a FP ground. How likely is that condition?
- What else prevents fire getting to the actual FP to prime it up? Any ideas are appreciated.
-Does anyone have a drawing of the fuel circuit or can point me to it in the forum? I'm sure its in here somewhere about 10 times but I can't seem to locate it.
Again, love the forum as it seems like people work together on how to sort out the myriad of Jeep issues and still love them. Appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks and apologies in advance for the long story but more detail is better than less.

Cbran

I am having issues removing a broken lifter bolt. How critical is that bracket from a torque standpoint? Can I install the lifters
in the bracket without bolting it down? What would be the issues with doing that?

Thanks

BTW this is for 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with 5.7 Hemi

Ruthlessredneckgirl

If the antitheft system has been activated the way to reset it, is put your door key in the passenger side door turn it, leave it in the door and turn over or start the car

amxlonnie

moved post.....sorry,

Mrbannan

Hello,
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 4wd. It had high mileage on it so I decided to replace the motor. It was running fine prior to motor swap. I bought a 5.2 magnum motor (bored @ 30 over). I sent the heads to a machine shop to have them resurfaced.

New (stock) parts at time of engine swap include ;

• Distributor
• Oil pump & filter
• Spark plugs
• Lifters
• Full engine gasket set
• harmonic balancer (aftermarket made by precision products company) ,
• catalyst converter
• added an oil cooler.

When I got everything put back together and tried to start it, it was hard to start and if/when it starts it runs really rough and mostly stalls out. Not much of a throttle response it stalls out. There are no engine codes.

Everything i've done so far to try to remedy this is;

• reset crank to top dead center
• verified flywheel has no cracks or breaks
• Put extra grounds between engine and body and batter and body
• reinstalled distributor on compression stroke to cylinder #1
• tried to set fuel sync with volt meter (closest to .005 volts i got to was .003 and closest to 5.0 volts i got was 5.12)
• tried 2 different
  • crank sensors ,
  • ignition coils ,
  • cam position sensors (helix coil)
  • engine temp sensors ,
  • iac sensors,
  • throttle position sensors ,
  • map sensors ,
  • ECU
  • It has half a tank of new fuel
  • I can hear the fuel pump kick on
  • Checked vacuum line at fuel pressure regulator at pump and it had no gas in it.
  • swapped fuel pump, ac, asd relays to verify they are working
  • no blown fuses

What am I missing?? Nothing has made a difference.

Fyi - I do not have a fuel pressure check valve on the fuel rail.

Thanks in advance.

bebeamer

Hi All,

I just got a new 2021 Grand Cherokee. I think I am having an issue, but wanted to get some input before taking it to the dealer for service. My gear shifter shifts to neutral without pressing the button on the shifting ****. This is an automatic transmission. Is this normal?

This even occurs while the car is in motion. I can literally just bump the gear shifter when the car is in motion at any speed, and it will shift into neutral without pressing the button. I have checked the button, and it does not feel that is it stuck down or broken. It seems to function as it should mechanically, however the button just doesn't regulate shifting from Drive to Neutral.

To me this seems like dangerous behavior. Especially if a passenger were to press this without realizing it. However, I am not sure if this is expected and designed this way for some reason. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks!

bruhnsena

I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 5.2L V8. Problem is it just keeps stalling. It stalls when I come to a stop, and I have to floor it to get it started back up. It will start and run a bit when cold, but once it heats up, it'll stall. I did a quick tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, dist. cap and rotor button), and it still has the same issue. I drilled large holes into the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter because I thought that might be stopped up; still same issue. I did a quick clean of the ignition control valve, throttle position sensor (not much to clean) and throttle body although it still has the same issue. I literally have to push the gas all the way to the floor to get it started back up, and shift into drive with my RPM's above 2000 to get it rolling (not good for the tranny I know). It sounds like it has a miss on one cylinder, but I don't think that's the issue. I'm thinking maybe a fuel problem (fuel pump or injectors), but I just wanted to see if anyone has had the same issue before and found a fix. I'm not rich so I can't go replacing everything...I appreciate any and all responses!

bruhnsena

Have you tried a new fuel pump or injectors? I'm having a similar issue. It stalls when I come to a stop, sounds like it's missing on one cylinder, and only runs for a bit when cold then it'll stall. I've tried plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor, fuel filter and still have the same issue. I'm considering replacing my fuel pump, but don't want to go replacing the TPS, ICV, injectors, etc. LMK if you have any luck. Thanks!

xjthing

I'd check for vaccum leaks first. Just start pulling off rubber lines/ elbows one at a time. Once you have one off look at the inside and give it a squeeze. If it it has cracks on the inside, it needs replaced. It's time consuming, but free to check.

Ricthewrench

Rich fuel issue can do those symptoms. Bad 02 sensor, map leak, etc, etc.

Mrs J

Hello I'm new here and dont know much about my jeep and could use some help with a problem. Don't have much money to take to a mechanic, so any help would be grateful. I drive a1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 2 wheel drive, 6 cylinder, 4.0
While driving one day all my gauge started to turn on and off. But when this happens I can not use my power windows and my ac will not work as well. My blinkers, head lights and break lights still work. I have tried replacing the fuses but don't where to start. Im not really fumier with car tech stuff/things. Please help

Ricthewrench

First, check status of battery. (Parts seller will do some basic testing for free. ) Next, grounds refreshed. See cruisers tip thread, excellent guide. R

Mrs J

ok got the battery checked and its fine. now whats ground refresh?