I found the info. If anyone needs its.

2000 WJ 11 blade fan with clutch upgrade

clutch: Hayden 2787
GM 11 Blade Fan: 15976889
Bolts: 10mm x 1.5mm x 12mm

Hello all, I have a quick question about the audio system in the WK (2006).
My battery was being drained, and the problem was traced back to the stereo amplifier not turning off, always on.
My question is this, is the amplifier part of the radio unit, or located somewhere else?

If the radio and amp are all-in-one, then I would assume a simple swap with a good radio unit would alleviate the bad amp issue.

Someone could have wired it to an always on feed instead of accessory? Factory, aftermarket or installed recently?

Check wkjeeps.com

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Welcome to CF!

Electrical wiring on the WJ is complicated because the systems are integrated and some use the same wires to transmit different information. I have a 2000 which is basically the same model with fewer options. I use 3 different reference sources;

The Haynes Repair Manual which gives basic maintenance and repair stuff.

wjjeeps.com which gives you history, model year options, info on different systems, disassembly instructions for interior trim, even light bulbs used.

The Full Service Manual from pacificcoastmanuals.com for $7.99, downloadable 93 mb of compressed pdf files about every system in your specific year jeep with descriptions of each system, diagnostic procedures, wiring diagrams, and component locations. It is the absolute best manual I've ever seen about ANY vehicle. It helped me solve my blinker problem quite easily. My left turn signal refused to work, but only the left one. The manual told me the flasher unit has 3 logic circuits in it, one for left, one for right, and one for hazards. Who in heck would have thought they'd be separate? They couldn't put it in a more inaccessible location if they tried! It took me 10 minutes to get to it and get it out, but 45 minutes to get the new one in!

Because both your blower and blinkers went out at the same time, I have no clue as to what's going on with yours. Most of the wiring diagrams I've seen are very confusing. When you find out what it was, please share with us so we can help others.

Okee dokee. Might have found a 96 ZJ twin to my other minus the rust. Test drove it and there are a few things that concern me. He said the oil was changed sometime in the spring, along with a tuneup (aka plugs and wires...) and it's currently not a daily driver. Of course he had it running when I got there so couldn't see a cold start. It doesn't like to start on its own but if you put jumper cables on it it starts right up. The battery cables look pretty corroded and a bit frayed so hopefully that's an easy fix. It also varies rpm a few hundred at idle in park and a very small amount in drive and reverse. Brakes are very warped but it still stops, no AC, the transfer case cross member is welded on and the 249's VC is most likely shot. It comes with a rebuilt np242 and is virtually rust free. The last thing I'm sorta concerned about is the oil pressure. At idle it's just below 20psi but even when revved up to A steady 3k rpm it doesn't go much above 30 on the gauge. Keep in mind I also have an almost identical same year same color same engine that runs and drives great and I only don't want to drive because of the unibody rot and bad BCM. What would you pay for it?

$300

Even though it comes with an np242? Here's a link to his ad(no I wasn't thinking $1200): https://up.craigslist.org/cto/5632578873.html
His brother or something is a mechanic and owned it before and was keeping it maintained until last December. Then they parked it for the winter.

The subtext and your comments paint an important picture:

- Pre-0331 4.0L was ****ed after ONLY 125,000 miles
- Transfer case is trashed
- Brakes are toast
- Electrical problems (alt/cables/battery)
- Did ZJs even ship without AC?
- Why the hell is the transmission cross-member welded on???

Basically, this thing was beat on and severely neglected. If the body is good, you'd be buying a body. Plus some possibly good parts. The engine oil pressure could be a poor sensor or clogged galley but, considering the other stuff, who knows!

This is not a "needs a little TLC", this guy's dumping his problem.

I think this may be a common problem with an easy fix. Hopefully that will be the case. My 2002 WJ just had the air bag light come on. I read it could be just a bad connection in the wiring under the seat for some sensor (forgot what it is called).


I don't think it is the clock springs or the steering wheel would be squeaking when turning it?


Anyway, I looked under the drivers seat and could not find any obvious wiring that looked like what I was after. There is a wiring harness/cluster with a bunch of wires that I think are for the electric seats. Is this connector I am looking for actually under the drivers seat or is it under the airbag cover on the steering wheel?


If anyone has a checklist of obvious things to look at first before tearing into things deeper I would appreciate it. WJ is a 2002 model with the inline 6, 2wd.


Thanks in advance.

I had this same problem with my 2000 and after all the checking I could do, finally took it to the dealer. They used a DRB III scan tool and found an open circuit to the steering wheel airbag firing squib. That's in the clockspring. All the circuitry for everything on the steering wheel is in that spring, and no, it didn't squeak. It cost me $625 to fix it. Just the part is $300. It's difficult to install properly and if done wrong, can bind and break prematurely. The connectors are on the bottom side of the steering column. Check wjjeeps.com for location and access.

2009 WK shimmy when braking at high speed
 

My wife's 2009 WK with 5.7 Hemi shimmys pretty bad when applying the brake with any pressure such as a high speed situation or even when stopping kind of fast at low speed. The shimmy seems to be coming from the front passenger side wheel. The brakes were done in the spring with all new rotors and pads and it did not do this when they were fresh.

My uneducated guess is a bad tire. No visible damage or issues and pressure is correct, so it is truly a guess.

Do the experts have any opinion? Is there a proper place to start to trouble shoot this?

I was going to rotate the tires and see if it still happens. I am praying it is not some sort of suspension or ball joint type issue.

Any suggestions welcome.

Possible wheel bearing?

This would be our third vehicle for a 2 driver family. Hobby for when I get the XJ to the mild but still DD-able stage. Really if you guys say $300 I'll see if he takes it. I just think it's crazy how rust free the body is for up here...lol