Did I make a mistake buying this thing?
 

98 Grand Cherokee Limited V8. Not sure if it's the 5.2 or 5.9. It might have an AM Muffler on it as she has a bit of a rumble to her and it's definitely not an exhaust leak.

Issues it has:
-headliner is falling down
-passenger rear door is closed but it keeps saying open on and off while driving with the locks locking and unlocking in time with it and the dome light coming on and off at the same time
-stereo fires up and all but no sound
-cruise control is no bueno
-power steering cuts and jerks when turning really tight sometimes and seems mildly rough most of the rest of the time, if that makes sense to anyone
-Appears to run rough warm or cold, and when slowing down as it gets close to a stop it jerks a little like it's overpowering the brakes with the lope of the engine(no it's not warped disks I know exactly what those are and feel like, this is totally different)
-Temp readout appears to be inaccurate
-mileage indicator appears to be grossly inaccurate reading a top end of 10MPG, and that's driving with a light foot at about 40MPH with only 2 short stops on the way of 5 miles
-Rear lamp failure when there appears to be none
-alarm appears to go off for no reason after shutting it off sometimes and I do not have a fob just a plain jane brass key
-interior lights apparently come on for no reason in the middle of the night


Door should be easy with a latch adjustment(if it can be done) or switch replacement.
Headliner should also be easy with some spray adhesive.
Rear lamp failure could be a failure in a bulb still I need to check all three bulbs in the third brake light and all the bulbs on the back, and not sure what to possible check on the factory trailer wiring.

This was the only thing on the lot in my price range that was not a car, or a huge ford expedition. I carry too much stuff to drive a car and getting in and out of cars kills me on 3 of my medical issues, and of course getting in and out of something that low isn't the easiest when your kinda fat either. LOL

if it has vents on the hood it's the 5.9

http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18n1.../ku-xlarge.jpg

Depends how much you paid

Financed I'm paying about 4 for it, if I go the full term, but when taxes show up I'm dropping a huge chunk on it to kill the interest, so I should end up paying in the end about 3500.

Paint is in great shape, interior is in great shape other then the headliner, body is pin straight without a single dent or ding, new tires, has factory bug shield(not that it's worth anything but is helpful). Electric sunroof, heated seats, tinted windows, etc. It's pretty loaded.

so is it a 5.9?

Disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect. See if that helps anything.

1. It is a 5.2
2. Battery was swapped out at the car lot, it was one of my conditions, I can take anything I want off the old truck except for the deck. I'm grabbing front boston acoustic speakers(leaving the rears as they won't fit anything else) so that's 500 back in my pocket. I also kept the expensive 6 month old silver oxide battery with 1200 CCA and an 8 year warranty. Since the jeep has the tow package I let them keep the 5Klb receiver I put on the old rig.
3. I found a temporary fix for the interior light issue and door ajar issue, I taped a penny to the door so it compresses the switch enough, and that cured both interior light issues the alarm issue and the door ajar issue. After Christmas when I'm not working 7 days a week I will have a chance to play with it a bit more and fix it right.
4. Got new headlight bulb.
5. One of the third brake light bulbs is out but still without touching the brakes if I turn on the headlights it says rear lamp failure. I have some idea's for that.
6. It did something goofy earlier, when I honked the horn all the lights started flashing on and off along with interior lights, almost like it was an alarm going off but I was driving the truck. When I pulled over after making a hard right turn it stopped doing it.


I think I might have gotten a handle on the running stuff. At idle it almost feels like it has a higher duration cam. It also appears someone put on an aftermarket exhaust or at least a single pipe catback, as the tailpipe is a good 3-3.5 inches in diameter, and it is definitely deep throaty and growling. Though it does sound like it might have a misfire or an incomplete ignition the way it runs. It would also explain the average about 8MPG. Now I did notice what looked to be the original plug wires. Now if those are original the cap and rotor might be as well or at least not in great shape. The plugs at least from the outside appear from the outside to be quite old as there doesn't appear to be any oil leaks or anything. Now I did notice however from the aluminum it looked like it had been sitting in someone's backyard for a year or two, which would explain alot. The rough running, the ailing headliner, the goofy electrics. The funny thing is the air filter looks like in two spots it started to catch fire or something but there is no evidence other then that, so it is likely that some dumb kid w3as messing around with a lighter with it. Though it will have to be replaced. However I'm gonna save up my pennies and pickup a K&N, always had good luck with them.

a v8 is still a v8, you will have loads of fun driving that.

True I haven't done a V8 in awhile, problem I got in enough trouble with a 4 cyl and a V6.

I have to say tonight I paid attention and I'm completely irked at these people whining about how solid axles ride like garbage. I've driven a WIDE variety of vehicles, from a 800K Mercedes Mabach and a 260K Jag, and even a Bentley, to Vipers, Corvettes, IFS luxury suv's, ifs/irs luxury suv's. This JGC Limited probably has the best ride out of all of them and it's a solid axle front. Aside from a couple of huge trucks from the 60's and 70's, this is the first solid axle I've driven, and I have to say I like the way it rides and handles. I'm still not used to all the luxury that's in it and not so sure I like it. I mean the power windows are nice I had them on my last vehicle for the first time and they come in handy. I'm also in love with AC. Can't do without power brakes and power steering. The leather, computerized this and computerized that, auto headlights, auto interior lights and such I just don't know. It feels weird. Though my rearend tends to like the heated seats.

That's why it's called a GRAND Cherokee. You've got to remember this was the top of the line for Jeep at the time. I too do not like all the electronics in today's cars, but that's what the public wants. Power windows scare me because I've had too much trouble with other vehicles windows not working when you need them most, like when you come upon a cloudburst! I've had to open my door to pay a toll.

My brother got it right when he told me how a vehicle with two live axles rides. "Rides like a hobby horse, corners like a couch." The coil springs soften the hobby horse effect, but it still corners flat and solid. I find they tend to wander a bit with radial tires, though.

About the axles, I had my Dana 35 open last week for a cleanout and visual inspection, and I was looking at the ring gear. That little 7" thing looked puny compared to my old Chevy truck. Now I understand why they are so fragile. I hope your D44 is more robust.

Actually I get no hobby horse effect from this, and it corners very well. Corners better then my old 94 2 door Sundance with performance tires.

The wandering isn't so bad. Before this I had a 96 Rodeo. That thing every seam in the road zip it went to the left or right about 1-2 feet. Then I also drove around an 82 Datsun 4x4 sitting up on 33x12.5 Kumho Road Venture MT's. Both those rigs wandered all over the road like a wino looking for his next bottle. The Jeep has a little bit but nothing serious, however it will probably get worse when I get around to a lift and tires though. Gonna keep it mild on the lift, about 3.5" overall seems like a good compromise overall for everything, height, tire fitment, price, ease of install.

Couple of new things tonight, noticed the plugs cap and rotor pretty corroded and carbon built, and the rotor seems to be stuck to the shaft(Like I said it sat for a couple of years), though the contact for one plug wire at the cap looked ok. On the way home check engine light came on, stopped at the APS and it said cylinder 8 misfire. Ok no problem. Picked up new plugs, cap and rotor, will stick them on when I get to my weekend job since I will have plenty of time between customers.

On the plus side however I did find out why it appears to be loud, looked underneath there's a dang flowmaster catback under that thing. Single pipe but hey still sounds pretty mean.

One other thing you should check. Make sure your ignition (plug) wires aren't burned through where they touch anything between the cap and plugs. I had a Chevy V8 that had an occasional misfire on one cylinder and I found a black spot in the #8 plug wire where it was in contact with the trans dipstick tube. A good way to find these is to look under the hood in total darkness with the engine running. Also, look for black carbon on the white part of the plugs where they still show by the wire boots.

Another thing that's not common but happens. It's called rotor burnthru, that is a hole where the rotor plastic has been burned thru to the distributor shaft. I've found this on GM's with HEI distributors.

Jeeps are fun, yeah they are! They are NOT inexpensive to maintain, however.

My 97 ZJ 4.0 had a Flowmaster on it when I bought it, however my newspaper customers didn't like it at 2 AM!

Ok so the wires are not burned through anywhere, but I gave her a tuneup today. Immediate improvement, and she sounded better. Misfire is gone. I get her out on the highway and drive home that stumble at 45-50MPH is STILL there, and now it appears the misfire is back and the check engine light is back on and she's running rough again. Though not as rough as before. I have 48 hours almost no time and very VERY little money to get this thing down through emissions, which it won't do if the check engine light comes back on in 10-15 minutes.

That's progress....ok you tuned her up and the misfire went away which lets you know something you did worked. The fact that it came back, check the things you just installed. By the way what parts did you replace?

I replaced the cap rotor and plugs. I generally don't buy the garbage parts either, I can't remember the name on the cap/rotor, but the plugs are Denso plugs.

The wires were replaced right before I got it, they are brand new MOPAR wires. The CEL didn't come back on until I got up to the 45-50 speed and it started to shudder and then it came back on and started running rough again.

During lunch at work today I'm gonna D/C the battery to clear the computer again to see if it's ok around town.

Just in case I can get to the parts store and have them scan it again, how does Chrysler's computer measure which cylinder is which for a misfire? That way I can narrow it down instead of using a shotgun and hope style thing because I'm BROKE AS A JOKE.

Hmmmm Throttle positioning sensor??

Well I reset it at lunch and during the drive home the CEL did NOT come back on. I've not taken above 35 and will not do so until AFTER I get her through emissions.

So I'm wondering if the misfire only happens at highway speeds, since both times it has come on has been at highway speeds.

Wondering if it's an injector. Especially if it's the same cylinder each time. Next time I'm at the wrecking yard I'll pickup a handful unless I get the promotion at work this week in which case I'll grab one there until I get the paychecks from the raise then I'll get a new set and hand over a fistfull of cash to drop the cost of it down then I'll buy the lift and tires. WHEEEE!

There are better injectors than the stock ones. PM Bustedback. I think he used Dodge Neon injectors.

I have a funky miss as well in cylinder 1. I haven't determined if it's the coil or injector

My brother is a jet engine mechanic and he said the fuel injector nozzles have to be "patterned" every so often, that is tested to make certain the spray pattern is right for a clean burn. Your injectors probably could stand to be replaced just because of their age. JMHO.

One other thing to consider the jeep did sit for a couple of years. It's fairly obvious when popping the hood.

If I had the $$ I'd pickup a set of injectors but at best they are 3 months off, and at worst 2 years or a little more. Until then it's wrecking yard parts.

I got my 703 injectors from a couple of 95 Dodge Neons for free (cargo shorts pockets are a great thing) at the local you pull it yard. A few cans of brake cleaner to clean them up and new O rings. I have less than 20 bucks invested in my fuel injectors and they have caused me no problems.

Busted, I KNEW we were of the same mold! I can't tell you how many things I've copped from junkyards.

Yeah been thinking the same thing, but the way the TPS sensors go out I've heard I'm thinking of just buying one new. Injectors yeah JY, but what about the TPS? They are 32 bucks new. I have the money but I am strapped right now pretty bad and will be until this thing is paid off, I get a promotion, or find another job.

215k on my original TPS sensor. I don't know why so many people seem to have issues with theirs.

The crazy thing about newer vehicles is that they will have similar problems but different issues. I have gotten to a point with some of my older toys, that if the part is relatively cheap and not to difficult I will do it just as maintenance. I went through hell with my dodge ramcharger with a similar issue, and probably spent $100 in various parts, but really they were near the end of the cycle on a 25 year old truck......the goofiest things that I have struggled with was actually a fuel pump that was giving me symptoms of electronic items.....go back to the basics on her. Disconnect each cylinder one by one for difference

If it wasn't an intermittent thing and hard to detect when not at highway speeds, I would have done that already.


The things making me think TPS, it basically shuts down at 45MPH and starts vibrating pretty bad until you let off the throttle a bit. If you step back on it, it works normal for about 1.5 seconds and accelerates fine, then starts again. If you stomp on it she will actually take off, but then after about 4 seconds it will start misfiring pretty bad. In town it can't decide smooth or rough. It also gets about 7-10 MPG when featherfooting it. I realize it's not a gas sipper and isn't supposed to get great mileage, but it should be doing ALOT better then 7! It also seems to hunt for gears sometimes, as well as it likes to hesitate when taking off and when changing speeds. I know there are many things that can cause each individual symptom I have listed here. However very little is capable of producing all of them.


I'm not looking to start a philosophical debate as to what parts can cause what kinds of issues etc. The point is I'm not swimming in cash, I need to get to and from work and smooth this thing out and stop the misfiring. I can't start shotgunning the heck out of it as I don't have that kind of dough at the moment. This truck SAT for a good 2 YEARS. After the tuneup is the TPS a good place to start considering the above symptoms, and should I pick up a new one rather then JY it?

I would lean that way of the TPS...it's the only thing that will act up at a certain set speed like that. I would get a new one because I once bought a used part and installed it. I then went after everything else, but the used part was actually bad as well.....also take a glance at vacuum lines and clean the mass air flow sensor....good luck

Read your post at work, couldn't answer it though. I grabbed one on the way home along with a can of MAFS cleaner. Though the MAFS is not anywhere on this thing I've ever seen them before. I'll have to find it. I'm used to seeing them on the air cleaner ducting. I won't be able to replace the part or anything until tomorrow at lunch time.

Thanks a bunch.

You don't have a MAF sensor, you have a MAP sensor. It measures engine load by a vacuum signal.

Kind of explains alot, but too bad I bought the MAF cleaner first. Oh well. I can still use it.

Well the TPS went in, it did not fix the issue, it idles so low it almost stalls. The throttle reaction is more instantaneous and it doesn't shudder now until it hits about 51 or 52 MPH.

However it seems to accellerate in stages now. I think the TPS was bad but wasn't the cause of the issues by itself. The check engine light keeps coming on and indicating a Cyl 8 misfire. I'm going to try swapping the injector with cyl 6 and see what happens I think.

Pulled Injector number 8, the one that keeps coming up in the computer, I swapped it with cyl 4. Whiel it was running, we pulled cyl 4 several tiems and there was a VERY VERY VERY slight change SOMETIMES. If it was running sort of smooth it would get a little bit rougher, but not much. Yank ANY other injector plug and that engine vibrated like a vibrating bed at a cheap
Las Vegas motel. I think we have a winner folks. So tomorrow off to the wrecking yard if open and here come some injectors(I hope).

Awesome!

Check and clean your IAC valve.

Did the same with mine, JB welded a penny on the door, then painted it same color as door, can't even notice it.

And maybe you ARE getting 10mpg.

:laughing: :naughty:

I paid my dollar to get in.

No idea what is going on with this thing, dropped in the injector, same issues. Funny thing is I pull the wires from half the dang injectors and there is no or minimal difference, half the others and it starts running rough. I'm about to drive this thing off a cliff for the insurance money. This has not been a very positive first jeep experience.

Appears to run rough warm or cold, and when slowing down as it gets close to a stop it jerks a little like it's overpowering the brakes with the lope of the engine(no it's not warped disks I know exactly what those are and feel like, this is totally different)


I'm interested what this is too since mine does the same thing.....I have brand new pads and rotors on it.


RIZ

Google "5.9 plenum gasket" and see what you find.