pwb

1. Do i need new bolts when i replace the gasket? I dont know if the bolts has been reused before, but if its "tensile bolt" it can be reused more than once, or?

2. The cylinder head (on the top) is full of gunk (hard oil), i have taken out some of it and its a lot of it in there, its not from water, its realy tick/hard oil. Would that tell me that there is a long time since the head gasket is replaced, since the po cant have replaced the gasket and not cleaned the head and to get so much gunk it must have been some times ago?

3. The head is of iron, correct? and its safe to remove the head and have it in the garage for 2-3 weeks? I dont need to get it to a machine shop to get it corrected as if it where an alu. head?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, but this is the first time i have done something like this.

pwb

I cant see any paint on the bolts and the bolts head looks okey. If they have been reused once before, what is the chance that they will brake? Is this kit from rockauto ok http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2491562
is there someone else that sells a kit with all head bolts i need? i do find the bolts on factorychryslerparts.com, but they dont accept creditcard from norway, and when searching for the same bolt on http://mopar-wholesale.com/ or http://moparonlineparts.com they dont have them all. I need
7 x J4007308
7 x J4007310
2 x J4007307

correct?

kennzz05

the buildup you are referring to is called sludge, has nothing to do with if the valve covers have ever been off but has everything to do with little or no maintenance or oil changes


im no pro so you may wanna wait before you throw alot of money at this motor until some other people with more knowledge of what you should be looking for chime in with questions. if the motor looks like that up top it looks the same on the bottom, this engine could have been oil starved because of its condition. Why are you changing the head gasket anyways, overheating problems??

pwb

The car runs great, not any big problems at all. The car dont use any oil, the mpg is 13 but its only used on small trips and with winter tires on. It runs smooth and the response is great. The compression test could have been better, but theres no big difference between the cylinders so its ok for a 93 i think.

Its a litle hot, its around 110 celsius (230F). I have replaced the radiator, waterpump and thermostate. Have flushed the system twice. Even when running without the thermostate its 230F. Its good flow in the system. The fan clutch is new. The temperatur sensor and sender is new. The gauge is correct and the temperatur sender is correct, i have measured them.
Since the car sometime show normal readings when driving in highspeed at roundabout (it drops down to 190F) i think there could be something blocking the waterflow to the sender, or maybe a litle litle leak in the gasket?
I have tested for leak and theres no sign of it at all, testet with a chemical kit that change color if there is any co2? in the water (air from the radiator). The temperatur never raise above 240F and the temperatur on the water inside the radiator is 190F when the gauge is at 230F, if i stop the engine and read the temperatur sensor in front (the one where the thermostate is) that reads 190F to.

Since its so cheap to orders carparts from US :-) i did ordered a gasket kit, so i have the head gasket. Since there is a litle oil leak back on the valve cover i removed that to use a gasket and not RTV as the po has used, this is when i notice this sludge. Its not easy to remove this sludge from the head without pushing some of it down in the head. Since i have time and i dont need to use the car i thought it would be fun to see if i could change the gasket :-)

I removed the manifolds since i want to install a block heater, and then i noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold (more work :-) ) so since all this is taken out there not much more to remove before i could try to remove the head. I did talk to a lokal Jeep seller/garage about getting head bolts, he had worked with jeeps from 1995 i think he say and he had never changed a gasket on a 4.0l before. Some of the bolts havent been solde in Norway for 2 years, so its must be a hell of a engine ;-)

But if it is a hell to change it and the chance are realy good that there is nothing wrong with it should i only let the sludge be in there and use the car as it is? Remeber i have time and only 2 thumbs ;-)

Sorry for my bad writings.

Parsnip

The sludge is from diesel engine oil. Po must have used it and never changed it out. Its fine to run but you cant leave it in there forever.
Yes you do need new head bolts, and your overheating b/c a cracked head or a blown gasket. If the head has.any deformations it needs to be magnafluxed. Also what was your compressikn through the cylinders? 30 psi is the max deviation but you should get between 120-150psi
Also does your coolant ha e any oil residue in it or does the oil have a green hue?

pwb

The compression is
1. 115 psi
2. 115 psi
3. 125 psi
4. 120 psi
5. 110 psi
6. 115 psi

The car has 275000 km.

No there isnt any coolant in oil or oil in coolant.

If there was a cracked head or blown gasket, shouldnt there be any trace of exhaust in the coolant? The engine has never overheating as steam from the radiator. I think the po did use some stuff to seal the radiator since the radiator was leaking, could that build up inside the head where the temp. sender is? I'm going to order some new bolts from rockauto and take out the head to see. But i did try to loose one of the bolts, should they be so hard that i need a prybar?/extension to loose them, the length i did try with was 10"

ol"blue

Look in your Service Manual. It shows the correct sequence to follow when removing, and replacing, the head bolts. It also tells the amount of torque needed when installing them, and in the proper steps.

pwb

I have the Haynes, but nothing about remove sequnce for head bolts, but reverse from installation sequence must be ok?

ol"blue

I'll send you a PM.

pwb

My engine is really dirty, its old oil and dirt all over. When i removed the valvecover that the po had used rtv to seal i noticed that the screws where wet with oil. All traces of where the oil comes from is from valve cover and the screws, is that a good explanation?

Willys55

...hmmmmmmmmmmm

pwb

i got 14 new headbolts, my old headbolts was hexagon (6) head and all bolts outside the valve cover is the same and all inside the valvecover is the same. 7 + 7 bolts for the head. The new bolts are 12 head, not 6 and there is 7 bolts for outside the valvecover and 5 + 2 inside the valve cover. There is two bolts that look almost like the bolts outside the valvecover. Where should i place that bolts and what are they for? there not any need for that type of bolts under the valvecover, or??

With outside the valvecover its not anything to do with the valve cover, its the head bolts that are between valve cover and intake.

Inside the box there is a "manual", but the numbering must be wrong? Both my Haynes and ZJ93 service manual is different from this.

pwb

Did i get wrong bolts? I think i should have something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CYLINDER...-/170699545389
Or ??

rockosocko

SO, digging up a dead thread again.
PWB.. Did you ever figure out what those two bolts with NON-threaded tops were for?
Going through this as we type where I'm using a '92 4.0 block and a NEW Clearwater head off ebay and only paid about 20.00 for the bolts through Rockauto.

BUT they look like yours. I was just going to use them on the inside of the valve cover, because I just don't see any difference in them other than the post on top of the bolt.

Hope you get back.
E

storm101

Just finished up a head swap on my 00 xj, I took a video of the bolt locations so I could remember what ones went where if you want to PM me an email I'll send it to you. The non threaded are under the valve cover though.

TIP: The rear driver side bolt needs to be in the head upon reinstallation- or you can just cut the threads off turning the stud into a bolt- just move the ground strap- front most driverside bolt needs sealant, a high temp rated pipe dope will work, and is torqued less than the rest of them, I don't remember the specs offhand.