A/C Evaporator Core repair
08-10-2009, 08:53 PM
#49
Caracticus Potts The Mod
you should also replace the reciever drier when you do the evaporater core. and if possible vac the system down for at least 2 hours if you don't replace the drier. A/c systems don't work well if mosture get in there.
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cherokee2005 (08-27-2021)
08-13-2009, 06:42 PM
#50
Hello,
I'm new to the site. Joined because of this thread. I have a 2000 XJ with a bad evaporator. I'd love to have a copy of the replacement instructions if you don't mind. I'm pretty handy at fixing stuff (and too cheep to spend $700) on the old girl. Any help is appreciated. Also, if someone has already researched replacement parts, where is the best place to buy a replacement?
I'm new to the site. Joined because of this thread. I have a 2000 XJ with a bad evaporator. I'd love to have a copy of the replacement instructions if you don't mind. I'm pretty handy at fixing stuff (and too cheep to spend $700) on the old girl. Any help is appreciated. Also, if someone has already researched replacement parts, where is the best place to buy a replacement?
08-13-2009, 06:59 PM
#51
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Hello,
I'm new to the site. Joined because of this thread. I have a 2000 XJ with a bad evaporator. I'd love to have a copy of the replacement instructions if you don't mind. I'm pretty handy at fixing stuff (and too cheep to spend $700) on the old girl. Any help is appreciated. Also, if someone has already researched replacement parts, where is the best place to buy a replacement?
I'm new to the site. Joined because of this thread. I have a 2000 XJ with a bad evaporator. I'd love to have a copy of the replacement instructions if you don't mind. I'm pretty handy at fixing stuff (and too cheep to spend $700) on the old girl. Any help is appreciated. Also, if someone has already researched replacement parts, where is the best place to buy a replacement?
Dan
08-16-2009, 01:30 PM
#52
Well, I took on the challenge yesterday. It took me about 8 hours but went pretty smooth. I probably could have done it a couple hours quicker if I hadn't had to run back and forth to the auto parts store a couple times getting specialty tools. I thought I'd share a couple pointers for anyone attempting this.
First, get all the tools you need to do the entire job before you start. You will need a good set of metric sockets, end wrenches, phillips and flat head screw drivers, electric drill with phillips bit (optional but speeds things up quite a bit), chanel locks, and quick disconnect tools for the A/C connections under the hood.
You will also need a special tool to pull the steering wheel, an A/C vacuum pump, and set of guages and hoses to refill the system. I got these items at Auto Zone. They have loaners that you can use. You have to pay full price for them but they give you all your money back when you return them.
Take your time. When you unscrew each part, set it aside with the screws that came out of it. If you put all the screws, nuts and bolts together in one container, they will get all jumbled up and you won't know which ones go where (and when you get done, you'll have a handfull left over).
The service manual says to pull the stearing column. Don't do it. Once you have pulled the air bag, steering wheel, and plastic shroud, stop there. Once the instrument pannel is disconnected, you can pull it out and over the steering column enough to remove the heat / AC unit without taking it totally out of the vehicle.
There are a lot of plugs in there. You don't have to disconnect them all. There are three main plugs under the steering wheel that connect all the stuff in the dash to the body of the vehicle. Unscrew the bolt in the middle of them and disconnect them. Most of the other wires stay in the dash and come out with it once it's unbolted.
Removing the Heat / AC unit is pretty straight foward once the dash is out of the way. There is one nut down behind the motor on the fire wall that's a little hard to get to but it's not impossible.
When you get the heat / ac unit back in, go ahead and re-connect everything under the hood before you start putting the dash back in. Go ahead and hook up you vacuum pump and vacuum the system down while you are working on the dash. That will give the pump plenty of time to pull out any moisture that may have gotten in the system.
The hardest part in my opinion is putting it all back together. The primary thing to remember here is to make sure you have all the bolts, nuts, screws and electrical connectors in each part before putting the next back on. I got my dash 90% back together and realized I had 6 screws left over. I bolted the instrument panel back in but forgot to install the screws on in it. I had to pull EVERYTHING back off to put them in.
Take this great opportunity to put a stop to all those annoying squeaks in your dash. You know, the ones you turn up the radio to cover up. Have a roll or two of double sided foam tape on hand. Put tape on all the contact points between the parts as you re-install them and tighten down all the screws really good.
On a difficulty level of 1 to 10, I rate this project a 5. It wasn't hard at all, just took some time. I would definately do it again before I'd pay $700 to $1,200 for someone else to do it. My total cost, including a new set of metric sockets, A/C disconnect tools, parts, coolant and oil was under $200.
First, get all the tools you need to do the entire job before you start. You will need a good set of metric sockets, end wrenches, phillips and flat head screw drivers, electric drill with phillips bit (optional but speeds things up quite a bit), chanel locks, and quick disconnect tools for the A/C connections under the hood.
You will also need a special tool to pull the steering wheel, an A/C vacuum pump, and set of guages and hoses to refill the system. I got these items at Auto Zone. They have loaners that you can use. You have to pay full price for them but they give you all your money back when you return them.
Take your time. When you unscrew each part, set it aside with the screws that came out of it. If you put all the screws, nuts and bolts together in one container, they will get all jumbled up and you won't know which ones go where (and when you get done, you'll have a handfull left over).
The service manual says to pull the stearing column. Don't do it. Once you have pulled the air bag, steering wheel, and plastic shroud, stop there. Once the instrument pannel is disconnected, you can pull it out and over the steering column enough to remove the heat / AC unit without taking it totally out of the vehicle.
There are a lot of plugs in there. You don't have to disconnect them all. There are three main plugs under the steering wheel that connect all the stuff in the dash to the body of the vehicle. Unscrew the bolt in the middle of them and disconnect them. Most of the other wires stay in the dash and come out with it once it's unbolted.
Removing the Heat / AC unit is pretty straight foward once the dash is out of the way. There is one nut down behind the motor on the fire wall that's a little hard to get to but it's not impossible.
When you get the heat / ac unit back in, go ahead and re-connect everything under the hood before you start putting the dash back in. Go ahead and hook up you vacuum pump and vacuum the system down while you are working on the dash. That will give the pump plenty of time to pull out any moisture that may have gotten in the system.
The hardest part in my opinion is putting it all back together. The primary thing to remember here is to make sure you have all the bolts, nuts, screws and electrical connectors in each part before putting the next back on. I got my dash 90% back together and realized I had 6 screws left over. I bolted the instrument panel back in but forgot to install the screws on in it. I had to pull EVERYTHING back off to put them in.
Take this great opportunity to put a stop to all those annoying squeaks in your dash. You know, the ones you turn up the radio to cover up. Have a roll or two of double sided foam tape on hand. Put tape on all the contact points between the parts as you re-install them and tighten down all the screws really good.
On a difficulty level of 1 to 10, I rate this project a 5. It wasn't hard at all, just took some time. I would definately do it again before I'd pay $700 to $1,200 for someone else to do it. My total cost, including a new set of metric sockets, A/C disconnect tools, parts, coolant and oil was under $200.
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cherokee2005 (08-27-2021)
08-16-2009, 01:40 PM
#53
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Great post and thanks. Do you mind me asking where you purchased the replacement coil and if you did a price comparison?
Dan
Dan
08-18-2009, 07:15 PM
#54
I purchased the core at Auto Zone. They were about $20 higher than a the internet stores but I'm not sure if that is compairing apples to apples. The one I bought was AC Delco. Most of the cheaper ones on the internet were off brand. Anyway, I thought it was worth the extra money since Auto Zone has such a great tool loaner program. I don't mind paying a little more for good customer service.
I vacuum checked my system for about an hour before refilling it. It held the same reading, so I figure there are no leaks. It's been a few days now of 100 degree days here in Texas and my A/C is still cold as can be.
I vacuum checked my system for about an hour before refilling it. It held the same reading, so I figure there are no leaks. It's been a few days now of 100 degree days here in Texas and my A/C is still cold as can be.
08-21-2009, 05:56 AM
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Hijack to ask for A/C help
I too have a 2001 Cherokee Sport that just lost it's r134 from the evaporator, and am willing to tackle the replacement myself. Since it's my girlfriend's ride, I need to do this job right, so would I be asking too much to ask for the pages that have so graciously been offered here by ol' blue?
08-21-2009, 08:07 AM
#58
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I too have a 2001 Cherokee Sport that just lost it's r134 from the evaporator, and am willing to tackle the replacement myself. Since it's my girlfriend's ride, I need to do this job right, so would I be asking too much to ask for the pages that have so graciously been offered here by ol' blue?
And Welcome to CF.
08-21-2009, 11:45 AM
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I just completed the evaporator install myself over the weekend. It wasn't hard at all, just took time. It took me most of the weekend to do it, but I gave myself plenty of time to get it all done. Getting in a hurry is the best way to totally screw up any project. First thing I did was remove the front seats - not necessary but four bolts gives you lots room to move around.
Since the manual bounces you around from section to section, I wrote down every piece that i removed in order, so that when it came time to reassemble, i just had to go backward through the list. I also had block of foam that i drew a grid on so I could stab the many bolts and screws into to keep them organized. Took a little extra time but really helped out when putting everything back together. No leftover or missing hardware.
I went ahead and removed the steering column. I thought it easier than trying to get the panel around it, but it was pretty easy to do. I also had a nest of alarm system wiring that I couldn't/didn't want to untangle, so i couldn't maneuver the panel like I would have liked to.
The only problem I had was trying to fit the A/C-Heater box back together. For some reason it just wouldn't fit back together easily without several tries. Just be patient and don't force anything. I think there are 5 actuators/doors in there and when everything lines up right, it all slides together nicely.
I paid $125 for the core at O'Reilly - they were actually a few dollars more than the other guys, but have a low price guarantee that I like to take advantage of.
I still need to vac and charge the system. Debating whether or not to pay to have it done or buy the stuff to do it myself.
Thanks again to Ol' Blue
Since the manual bounces you around from section to section, I wrote down every piece that i removed in order, so that when it came time to reassemble, i just had to go backward through the list. I also had block of foam that i drew a grid on so I could stab the many bolts and screws into to keep them organized. Took a little extra time but really helped out when putting everything back together. No leftover or missing hardware.
I went ahead and removed the steering column. I thought it easier than trying to get the panel around it, but it was pretty easy to do. I also had a nest of alarm system wiring that I couldn't/didn't want to untangle, so i couldn't maneuver the panel like I would have liked to.
The only problem I had was trying to fit the A/C-Heater box back together. For some reason it just wouldn't fit back together easily without several tries. Just be patient and don't force anything. I think there are 5 actuators/doors in there and when everything lines up right, it all slides together nicely.
I paid $125 for the core at O'Reilly - they were actually a few dollars more than the other guys, but have a low price guarantee that I like to take advantage of.
I still need to vac and charge the system. Debating whether or not to pay to have it done or buy the stuff to do it myself.
Thanks again to Ol' Blue