pwb

Hi, i have replaced my TPS and the RPM and shifting is now much better. Overdrive get in arround 45mph, but i has to give much gas to get some action when its in overdrive, i need to have it kickdown to get some realy action. If i release the gas and press the gas its out of overdrive, but is this normal? Is it the TV cable that controls this? Since i has the push button on the TV cable i can only adjust it out (loose?).

jnicewan

When you let off the gas and hit it again that is probably unlocking/locking the torque convertor not shifting in/out of O/D and that is normal. The trans strategy is to unlock the convertor when letting off the gas so there is not a mechanical coupling when slowing down, but it will lock back up if you re-accel.

As you suspect with the push button style T/V I dont think you can make it tighter because it will automatically re-adjust at the next wide open throttle event. You should make sure its at least set that way though. You might check the TP voltage and maybe loosen it to see if you can adjust just a little bit more out of it or get a little more voltage at idle.

What trans is this, AW4 or 42,44,46RE? Have you checked the TP voltage at all?

pwb

Its AW4.
New TPS and IAC. My old TPS had 2v on close so the idle RPM was to high (but the shifting was okey, but the lock wasnt i think), my first new TPS made the shifting happens way to early, the lock was happening at as low as 15-20mph. The second new TPS is okey on voltage and the shifting is okey, but the lock i think dont releasae as it should, or maybe its correct since i dont think i have used the car with a correct function TPS and this i my first car with automatic. So lock isnt OD? okey, i thought that the lock was the same as OD. So i have 1,2,3 and OD and it locks when i'm in OD and at 45mph. So if the engine is old and some of the power is gone it maybe behave correct?

jnicewan

TP voltage should be no less than .2v at idle it probably is around .4-.8v though. I dont think you need to be concerned about the TP voltage though. I am not too familiar with the AW4, I dont really know how the T/V cable affects trans op. It may just be a kickdown cable too. I am not really sure that you complaint is valid, you just might have to get used it, also it might be shifting normally now that you have a good TP. I have driven a lot of vehicles that took a lot of throttle input to force a 4-3 downshift, or at least took around 75+%. The 42RE is pretty sensitive to shift out of O/D when under accel, I dont really know how the AW4 should act.

pwb

Okey, maybe all is okey then :-)

Bustedback

Not all 93 ZJs had the AW4, they went to the 42RE mid year.

pwb

Correct ;-) but mine has AW4. I think the lock has never worked before i got the new TPS and that i has to know how to "ride my car" :-) Why isnt there any lock in 1,2 or 3. Isnt the torqueconvert in constant wear when its not locked? How does it work, should i put it in N when standing still for a long period/traffic jam?

Bustedback

locking torque converters have only been around for about 25 years and they are pretty much the same as a non locking converter with a clutch mechanism that is hydraulicly actuated. There is an electric solenoid that controls the hydraulic flow to the clutch. The reason the auto makers went to the locking converter is to make the converter more efficient. You will notice about a 300 RPM drop when the converter locks, that saves gas and helps keep the converter cooler. The converter is a major heat source in the transmission. A torque converter is actually a fluid coupler, there is no real connection between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft until the converter locks, it's just fluid getting slung from one fan into another fan. It's kind of crazy how it works, but it does quite well. The reason it doesn't lock up in the first three gears is because it would not be able to handle the torque in the lower gears and would fail, the clutch in the converter is kind of small.