ol"blue

It's in the Power Distribution Center (that black plastic box near the battery) under the hood.

ol"blue

I'll post something from the FSM, but it's a little long.

ol"blue

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) refers to power being
drained from the battery with the ignition switch in
the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system
will draw from five to thirty milliamperes (0.005 to
0.030 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off
position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in
proper working order. The thirty milliamperes are
needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain
Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically
tuned radio, and other modules which may
vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately
twenty days, may discharge the battery to an
inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for
twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse
from the Power Distribution Center (PDC). This will
reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components
² An internally shorted generator
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty milliamperes, the problem
must be found and corrected before replacing a battery.
In most cases, the battery can be charged and
returned to service after the excessive IOD has been
corrected.

DIAGNOSIS
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with a illuminated
entry system or electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to three minutes.
(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operating
properly, then unplug the lamp wire harness connector
or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable
clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make
sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated
entry system is not activated. The multi-meter
amperage reading may remain high for up to three
minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set
in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the
electrical equipment on the vehicle. The multi-meter
leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative
cable clamp and the battery negative terminal
post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal
post and the negative cable clamp is lost during
any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer
function will be activated and all of the tests will
have to be repeated.
(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or non-existent, depending upon the electrical
equipment on the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove each fuse or circuit breaker
(refer to Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams for more information)
until the amperage reading becomes very
low, or non-existent. This will isolate each circuit and
identify the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the
amperage reading remains high after disconnecting
each fuse and circuit breaker, unplug the wire harness
connector from the generator. If the amperage
reading now becomes very low or non-existent, refer
to Group 8C - Charging System to diagnose the
faulty charging system. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively
lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker removal process
to identify and correct the sources of excessive IOD.
It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale
of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage
IOD should not exceed thirty milliamperes
(0.030 ampere). If the draw exceeds thirty milliamperes,
isolate each circuit by removing the circuit
breakers and fuses. The multi-meter reading will
drop to within the acceptable limit when the source
of the excessive draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit
as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect
switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

ol"blue

VOLTAGE DROP TEST
The voltage drop test will determine if there is
excessive resistance in the battery terminal connections
or the battery cables. When performing these
tests, it is important to remember that the voltage
drop is giving an indication of the resistance between
the two points at which the voltmeter probes are
attached.
Example: When testing the resistance of the battery
positive cable, touch the voltmeter leads to the
battery positive cable clamp and the cable connector
at the starter solenoid. If you probe the battery positive
terminal post and the cable connector at the
starter solenoid, you are reading the combined voltage
drop in the battery positive cable clamp-to-terminal
post connection and the battery positive cable.
WARNING:
² IF THE BATTERY SHOWS SIGNS OF FREEZING,
LEAKING, LOOSE POSTS, OR LOW ELECTROLYTE
LEVEL, DO NOT TEST, ASSIST-BOOST, OR
CHARGE. THE BATTERY MAY ARC INTERNALLY
AND EXPLODE. PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR VEHICLE
DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
² EXPLOSIVE HYDROGEN GAS FORMS IN AND
AROUND THE BATTERY. DO NOT SMOKE, USE
FLAME, OR CREATE SPARKS NEAR THE BATTERY.
PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR VEHICLE DAMAGE
MAY RESULT.
² THE BATTERY CONTAINS SULFURIC ACID,
WHICH IS POISONOUS AND CAUSTIC. AVOID CONTACT
WITH THE SKIN, EYES, OR CLOTHING. IN
THE EVENT OF CONTACT, FLUSH WITH WATER
AND CALL A PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY. KEEP OUT
OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
² IF THE BATTERY IS EQUIPPED WITH REMOVABLE
CELL CAPS, BE CERTAIN THAT EACH OF
THE CELL CAPS IS IN PLACE AND TIGHT BEFORE
THE BATTERY IS RETURNED TO SERVICE. PERSONAL
INJURY AND/OR VEHICLE DAMAGE MAY
RESULT FROM LOOSE OR MISSING CELL CAPS.

The following operation will require a voltmeter
accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing the
tests, be certain the following procedures are accomplished:
² Battery is fully-charged as described in this
group.
² Fully engage the parking brake.
² If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in the
Park position. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual
transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in
the Neutral position and fully depress the clutch
pedal.
² Unplug the Automatic ShutDown (ASD) relay to
prevent a gasoline engine from starting. The ASD
relay is located in the Power Distribution Center
(PDC). Refer to the PDC label for ASD relay identification
and location. To prevent a diesel engine from
starting, unplug the fuel shut off solenoid wire harness
connector (Fig. 10).
(1) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to
the battery negative terminal post. Connect the negative
lead of the voltmeter to the battery negative
cable clamp (Fig. 11). Rotate and hold the ignition
switch in the Start position. Observe the voltmeter. If
voltage is detected, correct the poor contact between
the cable clamp and the terminal post.
(2) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to
the battery positive terminal post. Connect the negative
lead of the voltmeter to the battery positive cable
clamp (Fig. 12). Rotate and hold the ignition switch
in the Start position. Observe the voltmeter. If voltage
is detected, correct the poor contact between the
cable clamp and the terminal post.
(3) Connect the voltmeter to measure between the
battery positive terminal post and the starter solenoid
battery terminal stud (Fig. 13). Rotate and hold
the ignition switch in the Start position. Observe the
voltmeter. If the reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and
tighten the battery cable connection at the solenoid.
Repeat the test. If the reading is still above 0.2 volt,
replace the faulty battery positive cable.
(4) Connect the voltmeter to measure between the
battery negative terminal post and a good clean
ground on the engine block (Fig. 14). Rotate and hold
the ignition switch in the Start position. Observe the
voltmeter. If the reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and
tighten the battery negative cable attachment on the
engine block. Repeat the test. If the reading is still
above 0.2 volt, replace the faulty battery negative
cable.

CherokeeCountry

I've been reviewing that IOD information from the FSM for around three hours, going to test it all tomorrow. Either that or jump it, take it to advance auto, and have them perform a test on the alternator and battery, etc with their equipment. That being said, I'm thinking alternator, but we'll find out. I just rebuilt the motor, re-did the front suspension and steering, and all the brake components, and when I took it for the first drive: I had to jump it. Afterward, I put it into reverse, the engine bogged down slightly, but stayed running. At the bottom of my driveway, shifted into drive, and she died immediately. Thinking when I was shifting and engaging electronics it would drain it. But the dash was pinned at 14 the entire time, and the entire drive. Think it's going slowly.

ol"blue

A low battery would cause that gauge reading, and I've seen bad alternators put such a load on an engine it causes then to die at idle. Try removing the belt and spinning the alternator pulley by hand and see what it feels/sounds like. If it makes noise, or feels rough, the bushings or brushes are probably bad. Alternators can be in bad shape even if they pass the charge test, and they can also cause a drain on the battery when sitting (as outlined above).

CherokeeCountry

I'm betting it's the alternator, it's in pretty sorry looking shape. Had it off during the rebuild naturally and was spinning it/playing with the thing, but I can't remember if it was horrible or not.

ol"blue

Well that's an easy/cheap fix if that's the problem.

CherokeeCountry

I'm used to the 4.0, all V8 parts are so much more expensive.. like 105 dollars for a new alternator, 100 for a new starter...

ol"blue

I hear you. And quality parts aren't cheap, but they beat getting garbage parts that don't last.

CherokeeCountry

Yeah, right after I posted that Alt. post, my sister showed up with a new battery and 90 Amp alternator for me, for my birthday. How awesome! Hopefully that fixes my problem... kind of just throwing parts at it.

ol"blue

That's great. Talk about a perfect present...Yeah, I hope that fixes it too.

CherokeeCountry

Well, I installed my birthday battery and alternator, let it sit over night, and it started this morning and held a charge. Hopefully same result tomorrow when I go to take it for my first real drive since buying the Jeep in August!

KD3NE

But we don't know what the problem really was ...

Alternator?

Battery?

That's the only thing wrong with throwing multiple parts at a single problem.


It is good that you got it running though!

ol"blue

That's a good start. Free parts are a blessing.

X2. The old battery and alternator should be tested to see which one, or both, was bad. And if neither was bad, be prepared for a recurrence.